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Ruud model ugfd getting fault code 68 no signal

Working on a ruud furnace outside condenser comes on but no blower on furnace getting fault coed 68 no signal tried heat and fan on stil same problem no blower what does no signal mean

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: ruud achiever 90 plus blower not working

does the furnace ignite?? your system may not have been lighting and has gone into ignition lockout count the codes of the led lights then remove panel led diagnostic codes are listed there.
if led codes indicate no problem verify capacitor is good and that mtr is getting 115 volts.

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

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Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Carrier 58MVP; Blower on, no

A code 12 is "Blower on after power-up" Try resetting the furnace with either the Emergency switch or circuit breaker. If it continues, you may need a new control board.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Clunk noise Ruud Furnace

I had the same problem, the motor shaft and bearings were going bad. There was about 3/16" travel on the shaft that the blower attaches to. I replaced the motor myself and it runs nice and quiet. I have had that noise that you describe for over 8 years, but it got real noisy about a week ago. I talked to the maintance department about it where I work and they said the motor bearings were probably going bad. They were right, I took the motor out of the furnace and they took it to a parts store and got me a new one $270.00 for it. It is a special motor due to the fact that the frame mounts bolt directly onto the motor housing. Make sure if you do this job yourself that you take the motor to the parts store so that they can match it up. The guy at the store told our maintance man if it didn't require the bolt holes in the motor housing it would have been $100.00 cheaper.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: ruud heat pump

If I understand what you are saying, when your stat calls for cool the unit blows heat and when in heat mode it blows cool. Is this correct?

The problem is on a Ruud unit it does not use an "O" terminal it uses a "B" terminal (Reversing valve energized for heat) where all others use the "O" energized for cool mode.

As for the contactor not closing you need to determin if there is 24 volts between "Y" and "C" at the unit, if not then there is an issue somewhere up the line interupting the voltage, if there is then the fault lies at the unit, defrost boaard or pressure switch. call me and we can diagnose over the phone, this is what I do.

Richard (Rick) Drennan
Global HVAC Distributors
RUUD Field Support Representative / Instructor
rdrennan@globalhvac.com
900 Spreckels Ave
Manteca, Ca. 95336
Office (877)448-7263
Cell (209)456-0513

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

louislevel_2
  • 374 Answers

SOURCE: my outside condenser fan motor hums and slowly

hi there,
check the capacitor of your condenser fan,if busted replace,although thats the common causes of hummimg motor,it can't start,consider also after replacing capacitor still hum,check the motor start winding,and the supply from the source of relay in control panel.have a nice day

Posted on May 08, 2009

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Do you have the make and model correctly listed? Because with your question it does not agree what I know about the Ruud Central air that you listed.

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What is the efficiency rating on the Trane model BLU055E936B1 upflow furnace and what new furnaces are available to replace this old Trane furnace without having to change the venting system.


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Ruud furnace Model URKA A030jK08 Code opt 589


Flip the lower panel over and look for a wiring diagram. On that diagram there will be a diagnostic chart. Let me know what 5 blinks represent. Then I want you to read on.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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1 Answer

You can hear furnace running but the blower never comes on.


do you mean the inside blower or the outside unit blower ... actually the problem might be a similar part in either case ... the blower motor has a capacitor mounted on it or near it ... it will be marked something like 160 uf at 200vac or similar . it will have wires attached or plugged into it .. the capacitor is what gives the blower motor a signal to tell it which way to start turning ... once the blower is running then the capacitor is no longer needed ... its only used to get the motor started ... if its bad then the motor will hum but wont turn .. if you manually spin the fan then the motor will take off in the direction you spun it (dont get hit ) .. a new capacitor is not expensive .. you need the numbers off the old "starting" capacitor or just take it with you to the parts place to match it up .. you may be able to order it from Ruud ... a HVAC repair person would likely be able to bring one with him for repair if you give him the numbers off the part or the model number of the furnace .. make sure the blower turns freely by hand (with power off) .. if not it may need bearings lubed .. ..

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