Chain 'jumps' on pushbike

I also would check if the chain is not worn out. When the lenght increases the chain links, these also can make the chain jump. Put the bike up and rotate the peddles, while shifting gears and watch if the d?railleur moves fast enoug. Perhaps even the jumping is over, because the links are not pulled out.
for chain wear, check out this wiki. Bicycle chain Wikipedia the free encyclopedia

Hi,it sounds from what you are saying that you have got a inturnal falt with the gearbox,im affried the only way to make a propper diagnoses is to take it apart and look at the gear sincros there has to be worn bearings,or teeth on the gears,or the sellector,or something has just manidged to come loose.
I wish you all thhe best.

Your timing chain is behind the timing chain cover. This means all of the front engine parts have to be removed to reach it. You will need to pull the Radiator and they recommend removing the Grille.

It is a major disassembly of the front of the motor, unlike a Serpetine belt. To check for the need of replacement, you can try to turn the crank with a breaker bar. While you do this you should have the distributor cap off. Then watch the rotor inside the distributor turn. It should be almost immediate. If there is slack in the chain there will be a delay in the turning of the distributor rotor.

Another way to test is to use a timing light while the engine is running and see if the timing changes for no reason. Now I do not agree with this method because if you have mechanical weights in the distributor the timing may move because of a worn breaker plate or distributor drive gear. Of course that extra play in the distributor gear/ cam gear can lead you to believe the timing chain is loose when it is not.

Since the distributor comes out easily, you need to find a Speed shop who can test your distributor before going to all the work of getting at your timing chain. Then if there still is slack in the timing, you will know it is a chain and not the distributor.

So there is room for error using either method, but I feel you are farther ahead by using the breaker bar method.

Hello,

If this is your reach mech or deraillluer you might find it is the two inhibiting scres located at the back of the bike - to test if it is - unscrew these so they only just stay in - then try changing the gears making sure you are peddalin so you do not stretch the chain and put extra starin on the drive chain. This is where they are located

Drivetrain wear.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Look up most anything you want to know on the web. That's what we do.

Bicycles have two sets of gears (front and back). The 6 position control slides the chain between the 6 sprockets (cogs) on the back. The 3 gears are for the front set of cogs. Between the two sets of sprockets, you get 18 (theoretical) different rates of chain movement per turn of the pedals. In fact some of the settings overlap. (However some of these should not be used. Do not use the settings that pull the chain to the furthest inside of one derailleur and the furthest outside of the other. This diagonal between the biggest and biggest sprockets (or smallest to smallest) puts extra strain on the chain.) The back derailleur is in the lowest gear when on the biggest sprocker. The front low gear is on the smallest cog. The highest gear possible is on the smallest rear cog and the largest front cog.

By planning the shifts in gears, you can maintain the same speed and cadence (rate of pedalling) on different terrains. (For going up a hill, use a lower gear than on flat terrain. However don't go to low or the bike may not balance well.) To shift through a large range of gears, you must be pedalling and then move the rear derailleur control followed by the front derailleur then the back again. (For faster shifts to a low speed, you can shift the front derailleur first but that can stress the system.)

For a guide to using the gears: http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/articles.asp?article=Gears .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Put the chain on the gears, loosen the back wheel at the axle and pull it back - that's how you take up the slack.

Hi; Drain the oil and check for metal. The gear could be simply fully engaging or it could be back lash in the trans. Check the oil before anything else. Good Luck, _Ned_

check the alignment of your rear wheel first and you may found that its not right and the chain is trying to jump the sprockets .

I don't know what the adjustment settings are that you posted, but the speeding up could be the result of the belt in the bottom inside slipped off its spool that acts as a gear for the speeds, similar to gears on a pushbike but they are smooth spools.