Question about Dryers
You should know that dryer has a thermal fuse located along exhaust Of heat... When You over load the machine the flow of air is not enough... Then thermal fuse is damaged ( open due security condition ) and the flame is turn off all the time... Just replace the thermal fuse. I hope this can help You. Sincerely
Posted on Aug 01, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, so now how do I get the extended warranty plan to pay for it. They will not send someone out for squeaks and squeals. "
If the breakers are okay and you have power to the dryer the problem would be one of two issues.
The first and most likely is the thermal cut off. This is a small temperature activated fuse that will trip if the air flow through the heater is poor, this is usually due to a plugged lint filter or restricted vent pipe between the dryer and outside.
The second is the heat element itself has gone bad. You can measure it with an ohmmeter or physically inspect it for breaks. The image I have attached shows both. The T cut off is part 47 and the element is part 14 both visible with the lower panel taken off. The lower panel has 2 screws visible while laying on the floor looking straight at the panel.
The part numbers for the components are 279973 (cut off kit) and 3387747 (heater)
Posted on Apr 24, 2010
First disconnect the power to the dryer by unplugging it from the wall. Then remove the 3 screws on the lower panel of the dryer. This should expose the heating element in a metal housing on the right side of the dryer. Disconnect the 2 wires going to the heating element and slide it out of the housing. The heating element part number is 3387747.
Posted on May 25, 2010
First check for 220 volts incoming power to the dryer at the terminal block on the rear of the dryer.
If you have 220 volts,check continuity on part number 59(thermal fuse) in the attached diagram. No continuity is a bad part.
cut and paste this link to your dryer diagram.
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
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