Question about Washing Machines
Makes a buzzing noise and won't spin but still drains?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
take the front bottom panel off. inside there is a drain pump. you need to remove filter from drain pump its look like a knob. be careful because their is water inside your drain pump so use some big thing for water. clean your filter. put filter back tight. i hope will solve your problem.
Posted on May 24, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
Since the washer will drain the problem is not in the Lid Switch (which tends to happen quite often with these washers)
The problem does however point to the Neutral Drain Assembly.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a detailed section on how the transmission works.
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
The buzzing sound that you hear could be the small cams in the assembly trying to connect with the main spin gear.
Ours had basically the same problems.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
See the following for how to access the transmission.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Nov 25, 2009
Is it a new or old machine?
If old, could be a loose drive belt or the tub overloaded. Is there a heavy load or lite load in it?
A loose belt is usually easy to tighten,...but hard to get access to the motor.
Posted on Jul 18, 2011
Most likely it could be the forward belt . When the machine is under load you hear a winding noise it sounds like the pulley belt tensioner. One other thing to check the rinse and hold button is activated as in the past accidentally people have switched it off.
Posted on Jul 26, 2011
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