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Yes! Do you know the wattage

Posted on Jul 10, 2013

Testimonial: *"Yes I do. So basically my question is : with the correct inverter, would it be a practical application for use in a camper rather than spending upwards of $600 for an actual camper unit?"*

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Replace the 120/12V with the same 120/12V Transformer before you damage the 120V compressor on the refrigerator.

Appliance 911 Sea Breeze

Appliance 911 Sea Breeze

Sep 19, 2015 | Thetford Norcold DE0051 Refrigerator

Your Norcold refrigerator is powered by 12V DC, not 110V AC. You need to check input power at the power board. If the fuses are good and you have good 12V to the refrigerator, check to see if you are getting 12V past the 5amp fuse on the board. If not, you may have a bad board. Norcold Power Circuit Boards for Sale The Norcold Guy

Jul 12, 2015 | Norcold Inc Norcold 1210IM Refrigerator

voltage regulator is bad. Most likey bad caps.

May 16, 2013 | PowerBright Power Bright 2300 Watt Power...

You need a power supply adapter. Might I suggest a 12v dc converter/inverter? The upside is that, for the money, you also get backup power to run your tv! Bonus!

You will need a good sized 12volt battery that will charge off of 110v house current and then the inverter will cover the rest. If the power there is bad or drops cycles you have everything covered because your inverter/tranformer does it all. Nice!

Here is the link to a website that sells these kinds of power supplies.

http://www.110220volts.com/Sub3/220inverters.html

You will need a good sized 12volt battery that will charge off of 110v house current and then the inverter will cover the rest. If the power there is bad or drops cycles you have everything covered because your inverter/tranformer does it all. Nice!

Here is the link to a website that sells these kinds of power supplies.

http://www.110220volts.com/Sub3/220inverters.html

Oct 11, 2010 | LG 42LC2D 42 in. LCD HDTV

your going to blow up your converter then,,,,

the compresor will pull far more than you have to start with

the compresor will pull far more than you have to start with

Feb 07, 2010 | Air Tools & Compressors

Ah, the problem of the ages. There are 2 solutions. One is a transformer of the proper size, and the second is to purchase a heavy duty battery charger (that runs on 220 volts). Connect the red and black (+ and -) wires to a 12v to 110v voltage inverter, similar to what you would plug into a 12v auto 'cigarette lighter' socket to produce 110v current from a car battery. The charger turns the 220 vac to 12 vdc, and the inverter turns the 12 vdc into 110 vac. This works, as it is what I did when I moved from the US to England.

Feb 04, 2010 | Sharp R-230 Microwave Oven

In the same temperature range that is giving you trouble, run an ext cord (110v) from a known good household circuit and plug the heater into the cord. If the heater runs OK, then the inverter is your problem.

Jan 05, 2009 | Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

If you want to get more precise, figure out everything in terms of power (watts).

Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:

voltage x current = power

or re-arranged:

current = power divided by voltage

or re-arranged:

voltage = power divided by current

For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.

or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps

A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V

A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V

As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the 12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.

The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers. Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load and can get much more tricky to calculate.

Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.

How does work in a practical sense?

Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat. receiver 50W - just as an example.

400 + 100 + 50 = 550 Watts. (just as an example)

You might think, well no problem, I'll use a 600 Watt inverter and have 50 watts left over. Depending on your inverter, that 600W might really be 600 x 90% effecient = 540 Watts of AC, less a 20% margin of error for the inductive transformers in the electronic of the TV, DVD and Sat. receiver 540 - 20% = 432 Watts.

Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.

If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.

550 + 10% = 605 + 20% = 726 Watts.

Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.

What does that mean in terms of wiring the 12V batteries to the inverter?

from the formula above:

current = power divided by voltage

In our example, we have an 800W inverter that runs on 12V

The current would thererfore be:

current = power divided by voltage

current = 800 watts divided by 12V

current = 66 amps.

That is important info because you can not use light gauge wire to carry 66 amps worth of 12V to the inverter nor could you use a 20A fuse to protect your inverter.

Now that's a lot of science for a guy who just wants to run a toaster on an inverter right?

800W / 120V = 6.66 amps

Using garryp's ratio 11:1, 6.66 x 11 = 73 amps.

That is a good ratio with a good safety margin.

This is all just MHO and should not taken as solid technical advise. In other words, don't blame me if you blow yourself up.

Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:

voltage x current = power

or re-arranged:

current = power divided by voltage

or re-arranged:

voltage = power divided by current

For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.

or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps

A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V

A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V

As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the 12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.

The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers. Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load and can get much more tricky to calculate.

Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.

How does work in a practical sense?

Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat. receiver 50W - just as an example.

400 + 100 + 50 = 550 Watts. (just as an example)

You might think, well no problem, I'll use a 600 Watt inverter and have 50 watts left over. Depending on your inverter, that 600W might really be 600 x 90% effecient = 540 Watts of AC, less a 20% margin of error for the inductive transformers in the electronic of the TV, DVD and Sat. receiver 540 - 20% = 432 Watts.

Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.

If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.

550 + 10% = 605 + 20% = 726 Watts.

Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.

What does that mean in terms of wiring the 12V batteries to the inverter?

from the formula above:

current = power divided by voltage

In our example, we have an 800W inverter that runs on 12V

The current would thererfore be:

current = power divided by voltage

current = 800 watts divided by 12V

current = 66 amps.

That is important info because you can not use light gauge wire to carry 66 amps worth of 12V to the inverter nor could you use a 20A fuse to protect your inverter.

Now that's a lot of science for a guy who just wants to run a toaster on an inverter right?

800W / 120V = 6.66 amps

Using garryp's ratio 11:1, 6.66 x 11 = 73 amps.

That is a good ratio with a good safety margin.

This is all just MHO and should not taken as solid technical advise. In other words, don't blame me if you blow yourself up.

Nov 26, 2008 | Coleman 5640B807 Compact Refrigerator

Yes, there is a way to do this. It's called an "inverter" and what it does is convert 12v/24v to 110v/220v - you can get them from most electrical retailers and increasingly from car parts retailers as well.

The little inverter box will provide you with one or two standard sockets, into which you can plug your notebook power supply normally.

BE CAREFUL about how long you use one without the engine running, though, as changing the voltage that far draws heavily on the vehicles battery.

The little inverter box will provide you with one or two standard sockets, into which you can plug your notebook power supply normally.

BE CAREFUL about how long you use one without the engine running, though, as changing the voltage that far draws heavily on the vehicles battery.

May 26, 2008 | Compaq Computers & Internet

Nov 19, 2017 | GE Refrigerators

Nov 19, 2017 | Refrigerators

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Yes I do. So basically my question is : with the correct inverter, would it be a practical application for use in a camper rather than spending upwards of $600 for an actual camper unit?"I answered in the wrong area (testimonial) So I'm still wishing to hear your input

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