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Central Air No Power

Central air was running fine last night. Checked temp this morning, thermostat lcd screen was off. Honeywell T8001C t-stat, took off and switched f to e, let sit. Did not fix when I put back on, this model has no battery. Used multimeter to check and had no voltage on any wires. Checked breaker, not triped. Checked fuse in furnace, good. Checked condensation line, free of clogs. Checked condensor which just has the pull out style disconnect and was installed. Not sure what else to check, it appears that the furnace isn't getting power maybe? Have pictures if that helps.

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  • Heating & Co... Master
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If you do not have 24 at the stat you have to check inside machine. Either blew a 5 amp fuse or a bad transformer. Check both primary and secondary sides of transformer. If 24 volts at transformer you must follow that 24 volts (likely red wire) and find where it stops. Good Luck!!

Posted on Apr 23, 2017

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  • Expert
  • 194 Answers

You have a bad transformer. It may be the capacitor, but i,m thinking the transformer.

Posted on Apr 23, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: I have a Carrier 38tra048340

Blank screen sounds like a fried thermosat. Abrupt outages can affect certain types of thermostats. Make a jumper wire and jump across R and G. See if you get any action from anywhere. If a fan or compressor kicks in you know you have a burned out thermosat...

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

Accurate Joe
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SOURCE: Electric furnace blows cold air before and after warm air.

It is normal. Your house has to go down a couple more degrees because the heat pump is not working. You can solve this by rewirng you thermostat. Take off the wire that goes to Y and tape off. Then take the wires that are marked w and e or w1 and put the wires to yellow. Do not run ac with it wired like this. If you need more information please post me back

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Goodman forced air gas furnace not firing

if your power vent moter is not running you should not have have glowing ignitor.Frist the vent moter must close an air prove switch in series with the idnitor .seems you have a stuck air prove switch.Its the one with a hose attached

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: New motor runs but doesn't blow air through the registers

Is the blower wheel turning? Did you by chance have to remove the motor from the blower wheel to work on it? If you did, did you put the blower wheel back on in the correct direction of air flow? Also, did you put the correct capacitor back on the unit so it can get up to the required rpm's? These are things that you will need to check for. If the motor is running and the blower wheel isn't and the wheel is tight on the shaft, then you will have to replace the motor. The brushes may be bad on the unit and it's not turning the shaft. Hope these ideas help.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

motor1258
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SOURCE: I have a DuoTherm BriskAIr 13.5K BTU. The Dometic

If you look at control box at roof unit, they usually use a separate set of wires for furnace. See what colors they are attached to at harness to thermostat. Some just follow other harness, and come out at thermostat. (bypass control box) Once you've determined which 2 they are, join them together & see if furnace starts, as it should. If it does, thermostat is faulty. If not, pull outside cover off & check voltages at furnace. I'm guessing by furnace model that your unit is approx 30 ft , but if it's a park model, you may have 24 volt system on furnace or 12 volt. Another way of confirming is to go to back of furnace where air intake grille is inside your unit, and locate 2 blue wires going to furnace & remove whatever wires are attached to them & connect them together. Furnace should start up.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

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Hello
Try taking the batteries out for 5 min,or disconnect power for 5min.
To clear it out.
Then re input all your times days and temps,

Is t stat in a cold location near a door or window?this could also override your settings,most progrmamble stats will go into override at 58.f im guessing this is not your problem.

If it continues after you reset,i would consider a new thermostat.

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Hi, Just to let you know I have repaired central Heat & Air systems for 33 years and Have seen this problem on many occasions. Lets see if I can save you so many trips.It says you have a programmable stat? On this stat and on a mechanical stat, they have what is called a heat anticipator that controls how many and how often your thermostat turns you're unit off and on and how long it cycles after the stat is satisfied. If you have ever seen under the cover of a mechanical stat, ( mercury switch type) you will see a dial with an arrow with numbers as .1, .3, .4 1.0, or .15 to 1.0 amps.Some are fixed and some are adjustable. On a digital stat, you will have to get into the program and see what the heat anticipator is set on. They come from the factory at .4, but to really find out what you'res should be it takes an amprobe to do this. The setting you need is what you're gas valve requires.I am sure I have lost you, but I am just giving you a little food for thought. If you can get into you're program and set this to .4, great. If the problem continues, your anticipator on this stat is more than likely, shorted, which would require you to buy a new stat.With a shorted anticipator, it will seem to be working like you say, but when satisfied, the temp.keeps falling until you reset power, then it fires and repeats this. Change the stat. If this is central heat and air, just follow red-rc which will have a red jumper to rh for heat, white to w, green to g=fan, and yellow or blue to y = cooling. If you have central heat only, you will find 2 wires red and white.Red to rh with jumper still installed to rc and then white to w.This is quite a long explanation, but I wanted you to know a little more then the next guy about your stat. Please let me know.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

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