Question about LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer
I HAVE BLINKING CHECK THE FILTER LIGHT. DRYER BLOWS COLD. TRYING TO SEE IF THERE IS SOMETHING I CAN RESET, OR CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT. BUT CAN'T GET DRYER APART!!!
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Posted on Nov 11, 2009
I have the same problem on the electric version. On the inside panel off the back is a schematic diagram. There are a blue and yellow wire going to one side on the heating element and a red wire to the other side. The red wire goes through two thermostats and a centifugal switch which is on the shaft of the motor that is closest to the back. I measured 100volts to the coil instead of 220. The red wire is the feed from the outlet.
The centifugal switch appears to be my problem. When the motor spins, a plunger contracts towards the motor and releases the switch which let current flow to the heating element. If the switch stays closed, then no current will flow. I had to take the entire dryer apart, the part was pulling the drum. After the dryer is unplugged, take it apart and you can by hand move the plunger. I'll be putting it together tomorrow after I put a little lube on the plunger. The motor has to spin pretty fast to get the plunger to pull in. Don't ask how i did it.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
I bought an LG dryer (gas) in Mar 2008, then in Apr 2008 I had the same problem you all are having. Apparently there is a sensor button, that when the dryer gets too hot, it clicks off. Of course that sensor button is under the drum of the dryer so a repairman needs to come out and click it back on. It is now November 2008 and I am having the same problem again, and have to wait 3 weeks for a repairman to come out! frustrating! I'm going to look on the LG website and see if there is some way to do this myself. You do need to be really good about cleaning the lint filter (which I do EVERY use)...but also, if you are able, I think it would be good to use a shop vac and **** out the vent from wherever the lint goes (ours is outside..) as we have noticed a lot of lint coming out of the vent. Hope this makes sense! :O)
Posted on Nov 16, 2008
I have the same problem. I have got my entire apart. If you need to know how to do that I can help you and if you have figured out the heat problem please let me know.
Posted on Nov 03, 2007
You may have a line down on your power 220 comes in one leg runs motor one heater if one line is down it will run if motor leg is getting 110 dryer will run but not heat if motor 110 is down wont do nothing reset your breaker before taking apart they can partialty trip then check out let for 220 last check power cord at terminal block before tear down
Posted on Dec 28, 2007
Clean the lint filter!
Posted on Sep 06, 2007
DLE2532W is an electric heat model. (a gas model would be a DLG......) To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in.
Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
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