Question about Refrigerators
An appliance guy came and told us it is a "run start overload capacitor . He said he fixed it and replaced the capacitor and charged us $169.00 for the part and $120.00 for labor (1 hour) + tax (8% =13.00USD) .6 hours later, while the frig. is at #9 for the freezer and the food section, the situation is still the same ( barely cool freezer and light cool food section). Is the diagnosis correct and the price for(the alleged) problem ,part and labor, correct? Jack
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are 2 possible problems. One is the defrost cycle is not working properly this is usually indicated by a large amount of frost on the back freezer panel. If so, the circuit will have to be repaired and the evaperator thawed to remove the ice build up. The other is the fresh food damper is not working properly this is behind the "lump" in the back of the fridge compartment above the top shelf, remove the louver panel to see if it is open or closed. closed will be warm open should be cold. The water dispenser reservoir is probably frozen due to poor air circulation.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
i'm thinking that maybe an air duct is either blocked or the damper isnt opening. In the freezer compartment at the top right side there is a cover that is held in place by 1 screw. (look at item number 35 here). remove this cover and make sure ice is not blocking it up. if that is ok, then check the damper control to be sure it is opening and closing properly. The damper is located on the refrig side in the control cover (look at item# 8 here).
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
This seems to be a model with an automatic defrost cycle.
The good news - is that everything major is working.
The bad news - it doesn't know when it needs to defrost or cool.
The reset is simply to turn it off for 10 minutes as there is no memory storage on these.
Hotpoint have a little get-out-phrase that they use sometimes - location.
If the room is too cold - it can sometimes affect the temperature difference between inside and outside the unit enough to make it think it needs to defrost. I think it's 15 degrees C that things start going wrong.
If the room is fine, then it is probably the freezer sensor that is strapped to the cooling coil at the back inside the freezer compartment. This tells the control when it's frozen solid - and needs defrosting. If it is not sending the correct resistance to the control, it can either defrost too much - or not at all.
If you can turn it off, and get to it to check it, check the contacts first, clean them if possible, replace covers and try again. If no change you will need a replacement. Some models you cannot even get to it, so if this is the case, a replacement control board is needed, or the wires from it need terminating together - dependent on model.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
Although this machine is supposed to be frost-free (i.e. automatic defrost), there was a build up of frost. We manually defrosted the machine, then restarted it - the noise has stopped and the freezer and fridge are now working. However, this may be a temporary solution.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
May 23, 2016 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Jan 19, 2014 | GE 7 cu. ft. Chest Freezer FCM7DR
Dec 24, 2010 | Maytag 25.6 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...
Jun 18, 2010 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...
Jun 04, 2010 | Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. / 583 liter...
Nov 04, 2009 | KitchenAid Refrigerators
Apr 22, 2008 | Frigidaire 9 cu. ft. / 255 liter Chest...
Dec 24, 2007 | Magic Chef CTB1521 Top Freezer...
19 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: