Question about Washing Machines
Leaking water from underneath hoses not leaking
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your leak could be coming from the rubber door seal. Inspect all the way around the rubber seal paying particular attention to the areas behind the rubber seal where it meets the wash tub. They wear with age and can develop small holes. When they start leaking it appears like water coming from under the machine. I hopes this helps.
Posted on May 12, 2007
SOURCE: leaking water from underneath.
sounds like several problems. sounds like your boot stem/ seal is leaking and possibly the tub bearing is rusted. I generally replace both at the same time as long as the machine is apart anyway. As for the squealing and tub slamming to a stop, that is your brake package and bearing have dried and/or rusted and need to be replaced
Posted on Dec 26, 2007
Check the easy stuff first, fill hoses tight?- drain hose cracked?
Failing those checks, cut a piece of cardboard slightly smaller than the size of your washer. Slip the cardboard under the washer and run a short load. Look carefully at the water mark on the cardboard. The mark on the cardboard the water leak will leave, will help you tell from which side or front to back the leak is common from. This will help point you in the correct direction to look for the trouble maker
Posted on Nov 05, 2008
Have you checked the drain pump? These washers are notorious for developing leaks with the pump. To inspect thoroughly, you will need to remove the exterior case of the washer. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. The pumps can develop small cracks and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced.
Check the tub seal. The seal in the center of the wash tub. If the seal develops leaks, you will notice water track marks on the transmission and a puddle under the center of the wash tub.
Check the the for cracks. Although it is not common, I have seen stress cracks develop on the exterior wash tub, causing leaks. The tub will have to replaced if this is the case.
Check the air dome hose to make sure it is still attached and not leaking. It is a small plastic hose that runs from the pressure switch in the console to the lower right hand side of the wash tub. If the hose comes loose of develops leaks, the washer will begin to leak as it fills (usually about 1/3 of the way full).
To reinstall the case, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
NOTE: Run some water in the tub about 1/3 of the way full BEFORE you remove the exterior washer case. That way you can check for any leaks with water in the tub. Let me know what you fins. I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 04, 2009
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