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IR sensor clicking sound

I have replaced the IR sensor on my Toshiba 30" model # 30HF85. I used conductive wire glue instead of soldering. Upon plugging in the unit I hear a sort of clicking sound - could this be from the sensor not connected properly?

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It sounds that some short circuit has occurred during connection. The connections should be soldered. Never paste them with any kind of adhesive tapes.

Posted on Jul 09, 2013


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SOURCE: Magnavox Model #PR1910 C123

It is very very rare for this to happen. I would try other remote or you can google universal remote codes and look for other codes.

Posted on May 06, 2009

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SOURCE: Toshiba 57H83 TV...My remote doesn't work...checked batteries & replaced remote...suspect IR sensor bad...can you tell me how to get access to the IR sensor to replace?

Visit this site for more details. Type in the site name "Electro-help" either to Google or Yahoo search box [not in the address bar of your browser], and click search. It is an electronic equipments service help site. All details you want are there. Note the position of hyphen in between words in site name, when you type it in. The site will appear as it is in web; subtitled as electronics equipments' repair help.

Posted on May 21, 2012

Testimonial: "Thanks to Gopakumar....great help"

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Hello, Im having problem with my toshiba keyboard. For example when I press the space bar it writes / instead of do the space, or when I press v it writes 4. What can I do?

1. You most probably have switched on 'Num Lock' mode on your keyboard. Tty to switch back to the 'normal' mode by pressing 'Num Lock' (NumLK or similar) key or Fn+NumLock (depends on your notebook/keyboard model). In the Num Lock mode on the many notebook keyboards pressing U (not V) will produce 4 and / is located near the space, so may be you keyboard have mapped space key to / sign in the Num Lock mode or you just mistyping (you didn't specified the particular model which is mandatory for such a questions).

2. Some transient software or hardware failure. Try to switch your notebook off then on. Next try to fully cut off power - take off PSU connector and take off the battery from the compartment, then take them back.

3. If above advices will not help, thus your keyboard seems to be some kind damaged. If this is the case, most probable reason is internal line short circuit by the liquid (water, etc), leaked to the keyboard. You can order a new/used keyboard from store/ebay or try to fix yours. Some notebook keyboard (pulled off from the compartment - look for service manual or video for your model) are relatively easy to disassemble, and clean mechanical parts and the button matrix films with alcohol or some similar solvent to to clean off short circuiting oxides and eliminate issues.

Most notebook and some desktop keyboards are difficult to disassemble and assemble back due to the multiple (decades) plastic rivets used to assembly all the layers together. Once you disassemble and separate layers to clean, thus You shall restore rivets some way upon the back assembly (new rivets, soldering iron or some glue). On other hand the desktop keyboards are easy to disassembly/assembly and clean in most cases. Most of them are assembled with a few decades of the standard screws.

Next problem you can experience upon disassembly is a pads and traces corrosion. That's why any electronic devices should be powered off immediately, then disassembled and cleaned ASAP once the liquid leakage occurred. Drying is not enough solution and cannot guarantee some oxides didn't covered parts inside will not [partially] short circuit and/or corrode these parts especially upon current will flow again. Moreover this will most probably occur upon a time once liquid reached some important device components inside. Fixation could not be done later in some cases once corrosion have fully destroyed some components. Damaged traces and pads on the keyboard films which made of some conducting composite with aluminium or graphite powder, could be fixed with a special expensive conductive adhesive (glue). Being an experienced electronic engineer, I have successfully fixed a few boards, but this work is very precision, complicated and time consuming (lost a few hours for every case and was forced to asm/disasm tens of times to precisely sharpen pad layers).

Nov 04, 2017 | Toshiba Computers & Internet

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Philips Tv model 32PFL3505D/F7

The video IF section and Tuner section should be troubleshooted. It is a very skilled work. Contact any experienced service technician.

Mar 30, 2012 | Toshiba 30HF85 30" TV

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Tshow me how replace ir sensor on toshiba tv 61a61
Please find above your service and repair manual, inside it shows you everything you need to know to accomplish this.
It is NOT a difficult task. BUT you will need a soldering iron on some sub chassis. Others use a plug and Wire, and one simply unscrews the old, unplugs from the sub board and replace. Other ones are soldered to a sub board, and need to be removed with a soldering iron. Either way it's a doddle. (Easy to do)

Aug 25, 2010 | Toshiba 61A61 61" Rear Projection...

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The L2 bit has broken of my nintendo ds lite motherboard, i'm wondering if i glue it back on, will it still work?

possibly not... go to a technology place and ask for a repair. because glue might destroy the inside of your ds, making more damage

Oct 30, 2009 | Nintendo DS Lite Console

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Infrared sensor won't work in a Toshiba TV

The remote wouldn't work on my brand new 46" Toshiba TV. Comcast person said the tv gave off an infrared signal that interferred with the Comcast remote.

Solution was to turn on cable box FIRST, then TV ( now I use All On button, which turns on cable first). If I turn on TV first, the remote wouldn't work consistently. Hope this works for you.

Aug 09, 2009 | Toshiba 26AV500U 26 in. LCD HDTV

1 Answer

I want change the ic for remote sensor for Toshiba tv, model 32cz61. I want guidance in how to remove the infra red sensor?

Do not try this unless you have a low power (30 watt) soldering iron and have some soldering skills.Buy some desoldering wick at Radio Shack. Place the wick on the solder connection and then place the soldering iron tip on the wick. Wait until the solder is sucked into the wick and completely clears the connection of any solder.Once both connections are clear of all solder, remove the IR sensor and place the new one in. Leave the new IR sensor leads long until you have soldered the connections. Then clip the leads short. Do not leave the solder iron on the connection to long when soldering in the new IR sensor. If you get the new sensor to hot it may damage it. Good Luck !

Jul 27, 2009 | Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection...

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Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, Blown Fused F850+F852

Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

  • Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
  • Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
    • Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
    • Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
  • Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
    • Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
  • Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
  • Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:
  • PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
    • There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
    • Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
      • I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
      • Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
      • Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
  • PD0073 SIGNAL Board
    • Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
    • Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10
  • Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
  • Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
  • Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
  • Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
  • Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

Jan 04, 2009 | Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Toshiba TV Remote Control not working


can you give to me your exact problem?


Sep 22, 2008 | Toshiba 30HF85 30" TV

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