OK. I've had the G25 for about 4 months, use it frequently and I'm as gentle as possible with it. It has never seen any abuse or drops.
Just today, I noticed that for the first time ever, the whell doesn't calibrate itself when I turn on my computer.
So, I go through all the settings, etc. check all of the cables and wires, etc., etc.
ALL of the buttons and pedals are fully responsive; the wheel still has no functionality. I can turn it the full 900 degrees, but it turns freely, i.e. it does not center or provide input in my games or in the control panel.
Now, I removed the wheel from the desk to check connections, etc. and I noticed that the power wire does have a severe crimp in it; apparently I didn't have the wire fully out of the way when clamping it down.
However, it has been secured to my desk for some time. Why all of a sudden does the wheel not work?
Like I said, all of the buttons, etc. are fully functional. It's only the wheel that doesn't do anything.
Please help! I'm a racing sim junkie and need my driving fix!
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If I remember correctly, the Touch n Sew is an older mechanical machine. If so, most likely it has seized because the old oil has solidified and "glued" the moving parts together.
Pick up some liquid Tri-Flow Synthetic Lube (hardware store or bike shop). Open the top, side, and bottom of the machine. Gently wiggle the handwheel and apply 1-2 drops each place where metal parts rub metal parts. Do NOT oil belts, synthetic, or plastic parts and do not over-oil! Then apply heated air from a handheld hairdryer directed into the internal mechanisms of the machine. Alternate oil and air, and hopefully after several treatments, it will move freely again.
Remember, like your automobile, mechanical machines need frequent oiling and cleaning. If using sewing machine oil, be sure it is Fresh, Good Quality sewing machine oil. If the machine is used frequently, oil every 40 hours of use. If not frequently used, oil every six months (even if in storage).
Call Transfer is a Class Of Service controlled function. If you can't transfer it's because your phone is in a class of service (or possibly Class Of Restriction) that disallows it. Note that transferring an incoming call to an outgoing line is frequently barred on some corporate phone systems to prevent toll fraud or abuse. Check with your phone system support person.
Contact Nikon tech support at www.nikon.com to see what they recommend. I don't think the warranty covers abuse such as dropping the camera so you may be in for an expensive repair. However, he Nikon techs may be able to suggest something that might help you avoid that expense.
This is a common problem with the older bikes. The reason is the position of the oil tank and the type of oil pump the engine is equipped with. With the tank being higher than the engine, oil will seep past the check ball in the oil pump and into the engine. When you fire the engine up, the oil pump cannot pump the excess oil back into the tank quickly enough and some gets blown out of the crankcase vent. If you allow the bike to sit for extended periods of time, this problem is worse. It's commonly called "oil sumping" around here. When you hear an old Shovelhead rider talking about his bike "puking", that's what he's talking about. I've seen those bikes puke nearly a quart of oil after sitting a few months. I've seen Ironhead Sportsters completely drain the oil tank into the engine. This is normal to a degree but if it gets too bad, you can "reseat" the check ball by removing the plug above the check ball on the oil pump and use a small hammer and punch to gently tap the ball into the seat in the pump. Then, remove the old ball and drop in a new one.
It depends on the amount of abuse and the attention to maintance the bike has received in the past. Clutches can last 15+ years or can be destroyed in a few months of hard (abusive) use.
In this case, you might investigate simply changing the oil. Fresh oil sometimes makes a huge difference - especially with a wet clutch. If the oil has been changed regularly and recently, it's possible the clutch is in need of replacement or possibly a simple adjustment. With the lever all the way released, you should have a small amount of free-play in the lever before resistance is felt. 10MM at the end of the lever, or about 1-2MM at the cable end of free-play is desired.
If this change happened suddenly it's possible that something has failed internally. If so, I do not advise that the bike be run until it is serviced.