An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: water in housing
This is the normal operation of most window units. It this is the case on your particular unit you will notice a slinger ring on the outside of the fan blades which slings water created from the evaporator and drained into the condensing area. The water is slung into the condenser making the unit cool more efficiently. The water drain hole will remove excess water. The earilier explaination may be needed if the water is dripping inside the cooled space. Tilting the unit back slightly may also be needed. Hope this helps.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.
No additional moisture will accumulate over time. Some existing moisture may condense as the unit cools down, though. If you drain off the water at the end of the day, I see no good reason to completely drain the air.
Hello, no if the compressor is still running and you are not hearing the click you should be ok. It will take approx 8-10 hours for it to get to normal temp. The frost you mention on the freezer panel could be a problem with the defrost system. I would leave it over night and check it tomorrow. If there is a major ice build up comment back and i will assist you further. Mike
This water is probably that accumulated during the automatic defrost cycle, which occurs every 24-hours. A fan is supposed to pull air over it to evaporate it.
Clean all the dust and lint accumulation from under the unit, remove the condensation collection pan and clean it, and make sure the bottom fan is running.
I can't emphasize strongly enough how much of an enemy the accumulation of dirt and dust under a refrigerator can be its worst enemy. It can make the refrigerator exhibit symptoms of much more serious problems. Sometimes a good cleaning can have it operating like new with no real 'repairs' whatsoever.
For some reason, newer AC window units no longer are made with a fluid drain. I think the intent is for the unit to be mounted at a sufficient angle (it MUST be angled back so the fluid drains toward the back of the unit) that the rear (outside) fan kicks the water over the condenser coil and gets rid of it that way, it also increases cooling ability slightly in this manner by misting the condenser coil. I would suggest increasing the angle of the back tilt by adding a 2x4 maybe under the unit to allow it to tilt? Alternately, you can drill a hole in the rear corner of the unit to drain fluid, but this is not recommended for several reasons...
1) It will usually cause rust to start at the drill hole. 2) you could accidentally puncture the coil system while drilling 3) the manufacturer did not make a hole, because one was not intended.
Most dehumidifiers have a "Frost Guard" mounted on the condensor coil. If frost accumulates on the condensor coil the frost guard turns the compressor off until the frost melts, then comes back on again. For the dehumidifier to work properly, the surrounding (ambient), temperature must be higher than 65 degress. This temperature allows the moisture in the air to condense on the coils and drip into the reservoir without freezing up on the condensor coil. Also, if the humidity is too low, (below 45%), the same condition will occur. So it will help to keep the parameters in mind when you have this issue.
Thank you for your allowing me to advise you on this issue.