Water wizard car wash keeps blowing 24v fuse when spot free activated
After running fine for many years I now have a problem with this machine blowing the small 24v fuse. It appears to happen when the "spot free" cycle activates. I replaced the fuse and wash ran another couple of hundred washes without a hitch. Now...with only one wash as soon as the "spot free" cycle activates the fuse blows...any ideas??
If your washer won't spin, check these: It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If
the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or
a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn
freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken
or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't
running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine
can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the
washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to
raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the
switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The
lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the
washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many
Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive
motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of
the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time,
the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A
belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine
belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed
with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The
clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come
up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent
the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need
to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be
defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the
motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's
possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to
operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire
motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly.
Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an
electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially
defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex
system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a
qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The
spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is
the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call
a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For
safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid
closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
Try disconnecting the heater element first and see what happens if still same unplug motor and try again, it is a process of elimination.
Plz rate solution.
Thanks.
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there is a pressure sensitive control that is activated by a small tube running from the bottom of the tub up to the top of the machine
as the water in the tub rises ,air that is trapped exerts pressure on a diaphragm in the sensor
the pressure is set by your selection of the wash load /level
when that pressure is reached the sensor pressure is overcome and the switch is activated . as a result the inlet water solenoid is shut off and the wash program starts
now knowing how it works , check for the small hose is not full of water when the tub is empty, the hose is intact and not cracked or broken and the pressure switch is operational ( disconnecting the hose at the tub and blowing air into it ( like blowing up a balloon) will activate the switch
if that is working ,the next point ti check is the solenoid that switches of the tap water with the machine on as if you are doing a wash the water will start to flow . blow into the tube and the switch should shut off the water flowing into the tub and start the wash cycle
if the machine starts to wash but the water still flows then it is the solenoid that is faulty
fix is a replacement unit
That comes into circuit as the water level is reached and can develop cracks in the outer shell which leak electricity via the water causing the trips to shut down
You can run your own test by taking the back off the machine removing the connectors from the heater (Tape them up with insulating tape ) and then run the machine.
If the heater is at fault then the trip will not shut down but the machine will not advance because it is waiting for the water to reach the right washing temperature.
If it proves to be the heater they can be replace quite easily.
If that does not stop the trips blowing then you are looking at the main motor.
10 years for a washing machine is not a long life but that depends on the usage it has had the environment it has worked in
you say it keeps blowing the transformer? you mean circuit breaker? if it is the circuit breaker, have the wiring checked for a short, if no short do a ohm test on the compressor. it may have shorted out internaly.
sounds like a headlight switch short let me know ok tellme whas up hey change the drl relay first dont buy onr go to the under hood fuse box look at the drl relay switch with same relay from diff spot let me know ok tell fixya bout me ok
IF water is not going in the drum It sounds like the water valve coil has finally failled , It has been blowing fuses ,because the ccoil on the water valve was getting weak . change this water valve and you sohould be ok , but before doing so chaeck to see if you have the proper voltage going to this valve when It is calling to open ,if the power is there and the water is turned on the valve should be letting water in the machine . you can also take a ohm meater and check the valve for proper resistance . . If the machine is up in years I would change this valve . from the chack I mentioned earlier . hope this helps you
This is probably a water heater problem Try operating on the lowest temp eg.15C If it goes through the cycle then its more than likely your water heater You will need a refit
is it the motor that got hot?, if so then check the motor carbons for wear, as these heat up when worn, also if the carbons are fine check the pump and filters for blockages, this makes the motor spin while water is still in the machine causing the motor to overheat, and subsequently tripping and blowing the fuses etc
hope i have helped a little
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