Recently the ignitor on my gas oven has been struggling to get started. I have to press down on the turn dial while turning and hold the pressure while I listen to it repeatedly ''click'' for bout 30 seconds, before it finally lights and stops clicking. The problem seems to be getting worse, and I'm afraid soon it won't light at all. I'd like to avoid having to replace it as we will be moving within a few months. Do you have any suggestions???
no, definitely the oven. Our stove top is a separate unit. I think it's a convection oven, but not sure (it came with the house). It does say fan forced on it. If you just turn the dial without pressing down, you hear the clicking but it does not light at all.no, definitely the oven. Our stove top is a separate unit. I think it's a convection oven, but not sure (it came with the house). It does say fan forced on it. If you just turn the dial without pressing down, you hear the clicking but it does not light at all.
The spark ignition coil is failing. As this is an oven, it can be dangerous not to have a strong ignition spark. A gas buildup in the oven could cause an explosion.
You should replace the spark generator coil which is located at the back of the oven and is usually orange/black or blue in color. Ariston usually use ITW Ispracontrols ignition coils.
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if you hear a big bang, and it wont light right away, it is normaly the ignitor thats going bad in oven. the ignitor has to get very hot to ignite the gas. orange in color. if this is the problem be very carefull not to bump the new ignitor on any thing, if you replace it yourself.I had the same problem last year,when trying to light oven it blew the door part way open because the ignitor was bad and the build up of gas caused this.
you have 2 posibilities the first one is very unprobable and the second will fix the oven
1) the new gas valve is defective and while the proper amprage is being supplied to it,it simply wont open
2) even though the bake ignitor is indeed coming on it isn't drawing the proper amp draw (3.2-3.6 amps) to open the gas valve ,the very fact the ignitor comes on totally eminates that the control isn't providing power to it for the bake ignitor to heat
i have been a appliance repair technician for over 30 years and am 100% confident that by replacing the bake ignitor the oven will work fine
There are 2 high likelihoods as to what your problem may be. When you turn your oven on, does the ignitor begin to glow within 15 to 30 seconds? If it doesn't, there is no power going to the ignitor and the control mechanism is going to need to be replaced. If you have a manual dial thermostat control, you can order this on-line at parstdirect.com. If you control is electronic, you will be required to have an appliance technician come out in order to send the old controller in to be rebuilt.
If your ignitor is glowing when you turn on your oven, but it has a very dull orange glow, you have a bad ignitor and it needs to be replaced. This is the most common problem with older gas ovens. The ignitors just burn out after time and do not draw the amperage needed to open the safety valve.
Replacing the ignitor is a fairly easy procedure. Replacing a dial thermostat control can be a little rough due to rerouting the thermocoupler back through the oven body. Unfortunately, the electronic style oven controls can only be sent in for rebuilding and the company that you use will need to be able to handle "Retforrepr Rebuilds".
The main thing that goes out is the ignitor on these stoves. If it appears to be glowing it does not mean a thing. The ignitor gets weak. It should be very bright. if it is a dim orange it is bad.
Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265; rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108. Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265; rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108. Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
Sounds as though the pilot light in your oven went out. On the inside of the oven there should be a small hole about the size of a 50cent piece on the floor of the oven. Turn on the gas for the oven, light a matchstick or rolled up piece of paper, stick it into that hole and it should light, monitor the oven for 30 seconds to see if it starts to heat. SAFETY 1st!
Check the voltage on the 2 wires going to the oven gas valve. If you get 120v when the ignitor is on with no gas coming out, you have a bad gas valve. If you get voltage, but it is not much, it is the ignitor. The ignitors don't burn out completely on the ovens, they just get a little dim and no longer ignite the gas and eventually will not turn on the gas valve
According to the model number you supplied it looks like your oven use a glow bar ignitor not a pilot light. In that case there is no place to hold a fire. what happens with these when you turn the oven on 120 volts goes to the ignitor causing it to heat up ,the amp draw across the ignitor causes the gas safety valve to open, and then lights the gas. So if you turn your oven on you should see a bright red glow if not probably the the ignitor, to check it you would have to verify you actually have power going to it. If the ignitor glows but the gas valve does not open you will still need to replace the ignitor has to pull about 3.2 amps across ignitor to open safety valve. Your broil burner works the same way. And most of the ovens the floor of the oven comes out to allow easier acess to the ignitor. also if you have to change the ignitor put just a dab of dish detergent on the screws to help from stripping them
no, definitely the oven. Our stove top is a separate unit. I think it's a convection oven, but not sure (it came with the house). It does say fan forced on it. If you just turn the dial without pressing down, you hear the clicking but it does not light at all.
is this your talking about the oven or the stove top? it seems to me that you are talking about the stove top?
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