Help We have a kenmore(as you know) and we read up on how to fix the issue that we are having and the suggestion that was given did not help, it is still turning off after about 10 -20 seconds of running and will not turn back on for a bit. We completely disconnected the vent hose to see if that helped and it still shut off. Please help, we don't have the money to go out and but a new one.

Well Dennis...

Welcome to FIXYA... Were all the (FREE) fun
is about trying to figure out which machine you
might actually have: BEFORE attempting to
address your "problem"...

((no extra charge for including MODEL number))


I have read enough OWNER'S MANUALS to be
able to GENERALIZE...

(really a bit easier than quoting chapter & verse.

Most of the REFRIGERATOR to FREEZER issues
are caused by AIR-FLOW issues...

They very chilled air (in & about the FREEZER)
gets somehow BLOCKED from making it to the
REFRIGERATOR side...

MOST
common among those causes are food ITEMs
improperly placed blocking ADEQUATE air flow.
FREE fix... just read and follow OWNER's
manual instructions...!!

Suggested sites were community contributes
ideas & solution... Proper MAKE & MODEL
numbers ARE REQUIRED... but still FREE.

Appliance-part-pros
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Hope these inspire (comment back for better
resolution from me... I saunter by daily (still FREE).

Carnac the Magnificent

most of the time if a dryer takes to long to dry its a ventting problem frist ck vent behind dryer that its not crushed or blocked

Hi

There are various reasons as to why icemaker quits working. Please check the bellow link to have a detailed idea related to your issue:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_4708794_troubleshooting-kenmore-refrigerator-ice-maker.html

http://www.hometips.com/repair-fix/freezer-ice-maker.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Sorry to read about your problem. you can have many different problems.

Here are some areas to troubleshoot
1. Bad temp control
2. Failing compressor
3. Defective start cap
4. Defective overload protector
5. Defective control board

I suggest you call a service company. for compressor issues

I have tried to help you. Please help me, by Vote/Rate my response. Thanks.

If you live in the Denver area, I can help you.

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

ok it seems you have a offset issue, you need to purchase a oven temp gauge. See what the unit read's, lets say you set the oven for 350, does it read 320 or 380. 20 min for 350 is little on the long side, you may have a gas pressure issue.

I would get a 2nd opinion on this matter. and no, they are not all like that.

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

You have to remove the front cover and or lid...if you cant figure that out i suggest you contact a service company to install your belt...if that's the issue...if you do have the case off..all you have to to is slip on the new belt

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

The thermal fuse is located in the front control panel where the circuit board is. You need to remove 4 screws(depending on the type of dishwasher you have) and you will see it. Make sure you change everything not just the fuse but the new wires also.

Hope this fixes your problem

I can't speak for which one is best, but I I can help you fix the no heat problem.

I am assuming it's electric heat. If it is, I bet the element has failed. If you know how to troubleshoot with a volt-ohm meter, I can walk you through the repair.

Let me know if you have the wiring diagram, or can find it on the appliance. Also let me know if you know how to read one.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html (if it is NOT shorted, it's probably fine)
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

Your biggest suspects will be a bad connection or relay on the control panel, a bad connection on the magnetron terminals, a bad magnetron, a shorted high voltage rectifier diode or a bad high voltage transformer.

You can find exploded views and part numbers by entering your model number at the Sears parts site.

A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########

You may be able to find better part prices than Sears here.

Your magnetron may have a 5-9 year warranty, so check your manual for that. Sears may send you a magnetron if it's bad and warranty.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

While I was reading this helpful solution for fixing the F2EO problem and then went back to try these suggestions, it magically fixed itself! It must be the luck-o-the-Irish baileys!

Thanks so much! Yolanda

P.S. I suggest that you don't clean the keypad with a vengence, especially the impossible to reach dirt that collects on the outside rim! I wish they had come up with a better design, probably wouldn't recommend this model.