I am having trouble getting power from my amp output terminals to my subwoofer. I am positive I have powered my amplifier correctly and inputs are correct as well. Green LED comes on, but no sound from sub. Subwoofer was tested and it is fine. I have an LOC connected to my factory wire harnesses, and RCA cables from LOC to amplifier inputs. Monster cable speaker wire from amp to sub. When I try to test the terminals of the speaker outputs on the amp with a voltmeter, it reads about .5 ohms, and zero AC volts...Help!! Thanks.
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Re: No power output
Set the meter to AC volts and measure the AC voltage on the RCA cables where they plug into the amplifier. The black meter leat will go on the shield ground of the RCA cable. The red lead on the center conductor. You may have to turn the volume up to get a reading on the meter. At high volume, you should read at least one volt but the actual voltage will vary due to the audio signal.
If you get no voltage on the RCAs, measure the AC voltage on the input to the LOC.
Let me know what you find.
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Just connect both sets of wires from the subwoofers to the same speaker output terminals on the amplifier. Make sure you keep the positive and negative wires together. This is called parallel wiring. The Type E is a 4-ohm, single voice coil subwoofer, so wiring them like this will give the amplifier a 2-ohm load, and the power produced will be divided between the two subs.
1) Check the Subwoofer for continuity - At the subwoofer, one at a time, test the terminals for Continuity using your Digital Multi-Meter; if your DMM doesn't have a Continuity test, use the Resistance, or Ohms, test and check for Resistance in the Subwoofer Coil (be sure to disconnect the subwoofer wiring before performing these tests). 2) If they test out good, hook the wires back up and test the terminals at the terminal cup or at the Amp hookup if you didn’t use a terminal, don't hook it up to the amp yet. Sometimes the wiring inside the box can be a problem if it has come loose, or isn't making a great connection. 3) If you have a Sub or multiple Subs with Dual Voice Coils, or multiple Subs with Single Voice Coils, make sure your wiring is correct by checking here: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp 4) Make sure there are no Hi-Pass filters, crossovers, or multi Channel switches enabled. 5) Replace your RCA cable/s with known working RCA cable/s from the Source/Head Unit to the Amplifier/s. 6) Check your Head Unit settings; make sure the Bass is turned up and/or the Subwoofer setting is turned On. 7) If you are still getting no or low output, try plugging in an MP3 player or CD player using a headphone to RCA adaptor and check for sound output. If there is still no or low output, your Amplifier outputs are probably burned out.
REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL GOES INTO PROTECTION AND YOU HAVE VERIFIED THAT THE POSITIVE AND ESPECIALLY THE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALONG WITH THE REMOTE CONNECTIONS ARE 100%, THEN THE AMPLIFIER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. ANOTHER PROBLEM WHICH IS A LITTLE RARE, IS THAT SOMETIMES THE RADIOS REMOTE OUTPUT WILL SAG BELOW 11 VOLTS AND THE AMPLIFIER WILL NOT TURN ON. IF YOU CANNOT MEASURE THE REMOTE LEADS VOLTAGE, SIMPLY DISCONNECT IT AND TEMPORARILY INSTALL A JUMPER BETWEEN THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AND THE REMOTE TERMINAL OF THE AMPLIFIER AND THIS SHOULD FORCE THE AMPLIFIER ON, BUT IF IT DOES NOT, IT WILL DEFINITELY NEED SERVICE, AS YOU HAVE TOTALLY SIMULATED A BENCHED CONDITION THAT IS TOTALLY INDEPENDENT OF YOUR INSTALLATION. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
That means something isn't wired right. Make sure that all of the power inputs from the battery are correct. Most importantly make sure no bare wires are touching (IE the positive and negative bare wires going to the subwoofer terminal.) If it keeps persisting, check the voltage level in the car and make sure it is normal, because some fancy amps have protection where it will go into protect mode if the amplifier is not getting enough power to supply. Also, does this happen when you are really bumping (like high volume) or just the second its on it cuts? Because when you really play it loud and it cuts, sometimes you are putting too much a load on the amp. Make sure the fuse in the amplifier is the correct fuse for the amplifier.
The B+ terminal on the amp goes to the Positive battery terminal with a fuse inline probably at least 60amp for this amp. The GND terminal of the amp goes directly to the chassis of the vehicle (metal) and try to keep the ground 18" or under. The REM terminal of the amp goes to the remote turn on wire from your deck, usually the BLUE wire. Some decks have 2 one for an amp one for a electric antenna. Dont hook it to the power antenna wire or your amp will only work when the radio is on. Won't work with the cd player. Hook the left and right inputs (rca) to your source unit (deck). Hook your speakers to the left and right channels of the amp with the correct polarity (+) (-) . Set the cross over on the amp HP-AP-LP for what ever application you are using it for like subs or components. There is a frequency adjustment for the crossover on the opposite side of the amp. This should be set in accordance with your crossover selector and speaker requirements. The punch bass knob should only be used with a subwoofer application. The left and right gain turn up or down the gains of the amp. (power output) These are set depending on the output voltage of your preouts (RCA) on your deck. A small flat head screw driver can be used. Set them between 1/2 and 3/4 if you dont know but make sure they are the same. Your ready to go. Hope this helps.....
There are several things that could cause this that i know of, bad ground not being one of them. A bad ground terminal should cause a noticeable distortion in sound and cause the amplifier to turn on and off. If you are getting power and no sound, the first and easiest thing i would check is your RCA wires. Replace them with known good wires. If that does not work, are you positive the speakers you have hooked up to your amplifier are not blown? If available, use a DVOM to check resistances on the coils on your speakers. An open lead reading indicates a blown voice coil. Also make sure that your speakers are each hooked up to a positive and negative terminal, as some amplifiers have two positives next to each other and two negatives, while others go + - + -. Your amplifier could also have bad input or outputs, but i would try these other easy fixes before resorting to buying a replacement amplifier. The only other cause to my knowledge would be bad RCA outputs on your head unit. If possible try with a head unit you know the outputs work on.
Hopefully one of these suggestions solves your problem.
You are probably aware on how to use these output figures, but I'll write a quick explanation on the specifications for future readers anyways :)
The concpet CC-452 amplifier has the following power output specifications:
Calculated at 14.5 volts DC;
At 4 ohms per channel - 45 watts x 2 (RMS)
At 2 ohms per channel - 70 watts x 2 (RMS)
At 4 ohms bridged - 150 watts x 1 (RMS)
This means that your amplifier would provide 45 watts of power each for your front speakers, which are normally a 4 ohm load per side (45 watts for left, 45 watts for right), that's unless they are one of those exotic higher end brands (eg: Boston Z6s which are 3 ohms). Rarely, you will find speakers that are rated at 2 ohms per side, but in this instance the amplifier will provide 70 watts of power into each speaker. On your speaker specifications, you will find a value termed "nominal impedance" which will give you the ohm rating of the speakers being used..
On the other hand, if you "bridge" both channels into a single channel (using a diagram often marked on the speaker terminals of the amp), you could then provide 150 watts into a subwoofer (providing it was a 4 ohm woofer).
It's not recommended to use this amp bridged under 4 ohms..
Some subwoofers may be lower than 4 ohms, and you will not be able to use this amplifier for these types of speakers without risking amplifier failure. Also, some subwoofers may have 2 seperate voice coils, and you will have to use both channels of the amplifier seperately (not bridged) in order to correctly connect this type of speaker for use.
Nothing should have been damaged.
I would assume the speaker output shorted in one way or another...did you have a speaker hooked up?
You most likely blew the output transistors and they ALL need to be replaced as one going bad will kill the rest since they're so sensitive.
At least the PSU, seemingly, wasn't damaged.
Contact www.audiotekx.com, ask for Jason, he's excellent at repairing amps and has great pricing.