Question about Zeiss Classic B T* Compact Pocket 522033 Binocular

1 Answer

Center clamp is too loose

The center "clamp" that holds the 2 monoculars together has started to loosen so that there is a gap between the top and bottom clamp. I cannot see how to tighten them again. I would think there is a cover plate that should come off to expose a screw but I don't want to start prying anything.

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  • fireworksfx Sep 04, 2007

    When I removed the cover that was glued down I found that my model had 2 common screws instead of an Allen bolt which made it easier.
    Also you only need to remove the top cover plate, the bottom can remain on.

  • shorthair4me May 12, 2008

    Center clamp is so loose you need two hands to hold up binoculars. But more important, now I have a split image between the lenses.



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Remove cover plates which are glued in ; use a pin to lift covers and use alen key to tighten.( make sure your alen key is the right size -has to fit properly otherwise you will not loosen ).

Posted on Sep 01, 2007


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How can I set tappits when engine switched off. Thanks for the previous answer. It helped.

Top dead center cylinder 1 measure tappit gap loosen nut on adjuster use screwdriver to lessen or increase gap keeping driver in addition tighten nut making sure adjuster doesn't rotate check gap again readjust if necessary repeat for other tappet
top dead center cylinder 2 and repeat above same for each cylinder
if the engine is an overhead cam the above won't work

Feb 23, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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Have a 2002 jeep liberty will cut off and not start then after it sit's it will start

You need a fuel pump, your fuel pump is electronic and is getting hot and it is in the gas tank, well actually on top... pretty easy to repair if your handy\mechanical. heres how to get tank off then repacing the fuel pump is a self explaination once you see it, go buy a new one after looking at it you'll see what i mean. fairly simple fairly simple!!!
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal
  • If your engine is fuel injected, you need to relieve the line pressure. This is done from the injector rack on top of the engine. About the center of the rack you will find what looks like a filler valve on your tire, only thicker. The fuel line can maintain over 40 P.S.I. pressure even with key off. Place a rag over the pressure relief valve. Use the corner of a screwdriver to poke the center core through the rag. A second or two should do it.
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  • Disconnect the rear exhaust hanger.
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  • Remove the plastic shield from beneath the left rear corner. Two plastic anchors hold it on. Disengage them by pulling the center plug out about 1/2". This will expose the hoses connecting the tank to the body.
  • Loosen the hose clamps
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How to change rear brake shoes


Needle Nose Pliers
Phillips Screwdriver
9/16 Socket and ratchet (not a deep socket)
Large C-Clamp
Center Punch

1. Put front of vehicle on jack stands. Brace back wheels
2. Remove front wheel.
3. Using the C-Clamp squeeze the caliper so the piston goes back inside the caliper.
4. Using the 9/16 socket undo the 2 bolts that go through a rubber boot. There's one on the top of the caliper and the other one is the bottom of caliper. The reason I said not to use a deep socket is that the torsion bar link is kinda in the way so you can't fit a deep socket in there.
5. Once the 2 bolts are removed, remove the wire retaining clips. One wraps around the top pin that holds the brake pads together and the other clips onto the top and bottom pin. Remove the one that goes from the top pin to the bottom pin. You will not be able to take the other one out just yet.
6. Using your center punch or screw driver tap both pins out of the caliper. You will at this point be able to remove the other wire retaining clip.
7. At this point the caliper should be loose and you should be able to remove it. If you are just changing the brake pads then you're half way done. Replace old pads with new pads and reassemble in the reverse order.
8. If you are replacing the rotors as well then all you need to do is loosen both Phillips head screws that are holding the rotors to the hub. Be careful with the screws I happened to strip the head on one of these babies and let me tell ya it wasn't easy taking it out. Once the screws are removed the rotor should come right off. Might need a hammer to persuade it a little.

9. Install new rotor and brake pads and you are done.

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jacke the front of the cycle up under the motor with the cycle on the center stand. The first thing you do after removing the front wheel and axle is to reach up into the lower fork tube with a hex key and loosen the socket cap that holds the tubes to the lower tubes. After the socket cap has been put back in loosely, you can now unspring the fork top caps. The spring pressure from the top caps is necessary to loosen the lower socket screw. The upper and lower triple clamps are the best way to hold on to the fork tubes. The tubes never have to be removed form the clamps. After you unspring the tops , remove the lossened socket caps from the bottom of the forks and slide the lowers off the tubes.

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Installing multiport valve.

No, the o ring should not squeeze out. When putting the top and bottom components together....
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  4. Gently place upper half on lower
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  6. If there is a tension spring with the clemps, do not use it yet
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  9. Make sure the halves and band are aligned
  10. Once the top is on the bottom fairly secure, loosen the clamp and re-tighten with the spring this time till the spring is compressed with no gap between the colis on the spring. If you have two tightening clamps, do this at equal intervals.
I dont know the exact model you have, but this is a standard procedure... Good luck..

Jul 11, 2010 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

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I am trying to change the thermostat

1. Follow your upper radiator hose to where it goes into your manifold on the top of the engine. On this car it should be in the center.
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4. Remove the thermostat and remember which way it was positioned in the housing.
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After tightening the chain up on the bar it still loosens up why

Keep the nose up!!!
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I have a greatland tent item #15710. This is a two room tent (not dome) with a screened porch. The poles have numbers and some numbers are blue and some red. I cannot identify whether the numbers go in...

I am looking for a manual for Greatland Outdoors 2 room tent with screen porch item #15710, however, I guessed how the poles go together. I set up the tent by myself, but I recommend 2 people or more, especially if it is windy.

Start by stretching out the bottom of the tent into a square, and stake all of the perimeter tentloops to the ground, starting with the corners, with the stakes directed at a 30 to 45 degree angle under the tent, so the tent cannot easily pull them back out. Leave the yellow cords attached to the tentloops loose, so you can use the cords to help pull up the stakes when you take down the tent.

Now assemble the poles going through the loops across the front of the screen porch. Insert one end of a pole #1 into a pole #2 and thread them through the loops over the entrance to the screen porch. Put the long end of a curved pole #3 through the loops starting from one side, and attach to either side of the 1/#2 you made. Put the long end of another #3 through the loops starting from the other side and attach to the loose end of the #1/#2. You should tie the loose green cords on each corner of the sceen porch to the silver metal rings at the curved end of each #3.
Later, you will do the exact same assembly with a #3 on each side of a #1/#2 for the poles going across the back of the tent and the poles going through the pocket across the middle/top of the tent.

Now insert the small end of pole #4 into the curved end of a #3, then insert the small end of a #5 into the open end of the #4. There should be a rubber foot on the bottom of the #5 pole. Do the same thing for the other side of the porch. With help, you should be able to prop up the front of the sceen porch, pulling aganst the stakes holding the rear floor of the tent, and place the rubber feet of the #5 poles close to the center loops of the floor on each side.

Now prepare the #1/#2 poles for the rear, and attach a #3 to each side and tie the loose green cords to the silver rings on the short ends of the #3s. Prepare a #4/#5 pole the same as the front, and prop up the back of the tent, putting the feet near the side loops of the floor which are about 1/3 from the rear of the tent.

Make another #1/#2/#3, and push it through the pocket across the middle of the tent, and connect the last #3 from the other side. The side supports for the middle are pole #8 with the white clamp on the bottom, and pole #7 slid into pole #8 (The #7 was scraped off both of mine). Leave the #7 mostly inserted into the #8 until after the center is lifted up. The #6 goes on top of #7, and insert the #6 into the curved end of the #3 poles which are already in the center pocket, and tie the loose green cords to the silver rings at the short end on each of the #3s. Now lift up the center with someone helping on the other side, and put the feet of the #8 into or near the yellow loops at the center of each side. Loosen the white clamps and extend the #7 poles until the peak of the tent is at proper height.
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1 Answer

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First, I don't understand why I could not submit my question when the filter model I have was not listed in the drop-down of models. As I wrote in my question, I had to choose the wrong filter, JUST to get the question submitted. NOTE: This instruction is for Hayward DE filters. Mine is a DE 6000, but I believe the instructions apply to all sizes.

I did solve my question by:
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  2. Start with the SMALL filter grid(1 of 8) and insert it in the location hole to the left of the stand pipe inlet. (The LARGE hole in the manifold.)
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  5. I found working from the center outward, and giggling the plate as I progressed, the filter grid ends worked their way into place. You'll know it's in place when the plate feels solid and is parallel with the manifold. The filter ends will be in the correct notches and the grids will be symmetrical.
  6. Drop the stainless center rod (with washer and nut in place) through the base plate and into the hole in the center of the manifold.
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  12. Place the clamp ring around the seam and tighten both screws until the springs are completely compressed. (There will be a slight gap between the clamp ring halves.)
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1 Answer

Serpentine belt replacement

you can loosen also the nut at the center of the pully. this nut holds the pulley tight. the long bolt that pulls the clamp is just the tensioner but what holds the pulley is the nut at it's center.



Aug 10, 2008 | 2002 Nissan Altima

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