How to fix the steering wheel's backslash?

Most likely a worn out steering rack

Also the front strut top bearing plates could be worn

Not the struts,the bearing on top of struts under the hood,
you can see with the nut holding the top of the struts

If you fail to change your power steering fluid every 3
years then you loose the steering rack in about 6 years or so

some times you will get a bouncing in wheel ,nose dive in front end when stopping or hard breaking, did you try jacking up car so wheel is just off ground ,put a bar under tire and lift up observe wheel movement ,then do other wheels , if it is a strut the wheel will move up and down freely , look for fluid leaking around strut body ,5000 miles is not much of a factor things do break.the other is get the front end off the ground both wheels,SAFELY !!!!!! WITH THE CAR SHUT OFF WHEELS BLOCKED, have one person turn wheel while you observe it , look for anything wrong grab the wheel and try to move left to right (a small ) motion observe what happens ,is there wiggle ? with out moving steering wheel. if not sure of any of these ,PLEASE take it to a mechanic .hope this helps good luck. Woody

Were the top strut bearings changed?

You don't turn the steering wheel, unless
your have the vehicle moving or off the ground

Do you flush the power steering fluid every 3 years,
when you do the trans fluid every 3 years?

you have to specific in the make , model , year and equipment type
you problem indicates seized bearings in the rubber mounts at the top end of the struts and you are actually trying to twist up the springs
the new rack fixed for a short period of time eliminates the power steering pump
It could be the steering column joints are dry and seizing up as well ( dead spots when turning the wheel indicates joints not turning freely0

do you hear the sounds when sitting still and turning wheel if so then it most likely struts / if you only hear it when u are turning while moving my knowledge is a bad drive axel some times u can't tell if bad if your mechanic jacked the front up wieght off wheels have them reched or see another mechanic to diagnose the problem ... hope i helped and good luck .. plz respond with what ur problem was ty

1) Take car to non dealer shops willing to give FREE opinion

2) Not likely you have a shock in Driver Front wheel, more likely a strut. Not likely strut needs to be replaced, but strut has a STRUT MOUNT (3 bolts of which can be seen when opening your hood) below this it is connected to STRUT BEARING which below it connects to UPPER SEAT OF STRUT or SPRING INSULATOR, that if loose will rattle. Usually, shops will not tighten, because to tighten is same labor as replace the parts. (Since you already dropped $1000 on ToyotaDealer, ask them to tighten FOR FREE since rattle is still there.)

3) There is a part called a "link," connects strut to stablizer bar, that if bushings are bad will rattle.
4) If stabilizer bar bushing(s) bad, will rattle early on but eventually clunking
5) Bad ball joint or tie rod can rattle as well

Never permit any shop to do expensive work on your car w/o first getting a second opinion somewhere else first. Do not tell second shop that you are there for a second opinion.

Shaking steering wheel at highway speed, no braking
1) Bad tire in front, bad tires in front, verify inflation of tires
2) Wheel alignment may be out
3) Front suspension parts (mentioned several above)

Highway speed to suddenly braking shakes steering wheel
1) Front brake rotors need to be inspected for warping
2) Test calipers on empty road at 40 mph, going straight on very LEVEL ROAD, hit brake pedal SOMEWHAT hard while barely touching steering wheel. If car jerks to one side, instead of braking straight on, you may have a caliper, ABS, or brake fluid pressure regulator off.
3) If brake rotors are warped, may as well replace front brake pads at same moment. Use ceramic.
4) When you drive on VERY LEVEL road on highway, steering wheel must be centered, let go lightly of steering wheel. Did car stay in middle of lane? No? Get a 4-wheel alignment.

Here I have the Step by Step :

Wheel and tire assembly Brake caliper and secure it out of the way with a piece of mechanic-s wire. Do not let the caliper hang on the hose. Brake rotor Halfshaft retaining nut and discard it Cotter pin and castellated nut from the tie rod end and separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a suitable removal tool. Discard the cotter pin. Separate the tie rod end from the wheel knuckle ABS sensor bolt and the sensor, if equipped Strut mounting nuts and the studs which attach the strut assembly to the steering knuckle Strut from the steering knuckle Lower ball joint pinch bolt. Carefully pry down on the lower control arm to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Wheel hub, knuckle and bearing assembly from the vehicle

Please Rate, Thank you

When you changed the struts,did you put in complete assemblies with new springs and top bearings?It is usually the top bearings that make noise when turning.Next is worn outer CV joints on the axles.

It is common for the front sway bar links to wear out. This can cause a sense of looseness, with a slight rattle in the suspension when going over bumps, or when making turns. They cost about $60 a pair at auto supply stores, and can be changed in about 1 hour. There was also a GM technical service bullitin on this vehicle in regards to the steering column which is also a possibility, as well as one regarding loud knocking sounds related to the front strut spring cups.

Assuming you have power steering, check fluid level in power steering system.
Check that the power steering pump belt has not fallen off.
Tires that are nearly bald can make the steering effort higher.
Do you have wheels that are not made for this car that have the wrong offset?
Check the strut bearings to see if they are frozen. Look under the front fenders while someone else turns the steering wheel. The strut and spring should turn with the wheel. If the top of the spring does not turn, then the strut bearings need to be replaced.