Question about Hobart D300-6036 Mixer

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Slips in all gears

Hi, it is a 17684 ser# 1945144 I have the upper and lower covers off and the lower gear and shaft. The grease is still inside. The motor turns but not the main shaft. I do not know how to proceed. Thanks

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Re: Slips in all gears

You have no speed 1,2,3 right?first thing to do is drop the planetary (this is the bottom with the beater shaft)undo the bolt and it will drop will see 1 gear,that gear should not spin without the shaft spinning too.if it does you have a sheared key on the gear.if you have access to the transmission check the worm gear attached to the motor it has a roll pin through it make sure its not sheared.then look at the top left gear assembly and check for sheared (broken)keys.clean up all the parts,if you dont you could miss something.let me know.

Posted on Aug 26, 2007

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Hobart 20QT guessing old a200 motor runs fine removed top cover to see but gears not working and mixer does not spin Any diagnosis Help greatly appreciated

The first vertical shaft has a brass gear that runs off the rotor. The ancient models had a spring loaded slip clutch built onto the gear. Upgrade it with a worm shaft kit which gives you a complete new shaft and fixed gears. I think it includes the upper and lower bearings. Maybe replace the grease if it has not been done. Or look for a sheared key on the worm shaft.

Feb 19, 2014 | Food Mixers

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I need a repair manual and parts manual

Once you're familiar with it, the A200 is OK to work on. Just pay close attention to the sequence in which the gears are removed and lay them out on a table in that sequence. You'd need to remove most of the gears from the center planetary shaft, which requires removal of the shift lever (right side, 4 screws). You shouldn't need to remove the planetary (lower end that holds the attachments and rotates). Eventually you'll be able to remove the smaller shafts as assemblies and replace the brass worm gear.

You'll want to scoop out the grease with brass shavings in it (replace all the grease to be thorough, especially if it has broken down and is very runny or very thick (the grease should be a little bit thinner than the consistency of peanut butter), spin the removed bearings by hand and listen for rough operation (particularly the smaller bearings on the upper end of the two small shafts (bearings in the upper bearing cover). Also check to see that the two brass bushings, which reside in two of the gears removed from the center planetary shaft, spin freely BOTH on the planetary shaft AND in the gear they reside in (if not, one of your speeds probably won't work).

For an experienced technician, the job would take approximately 1-1.5 hours unless the old grease is all cleaned out thoroughly to replace with all new grease (thorough cleaning requires the removal of planetary and planetary shaft), and thorough cleaning can be a time consuming process. Then you might get closer to 2.5 hours.

May 07, 2010 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

I have a Kitchen Aid Professional 600, 6QT, 575 W mixer. I went to use it and the beater and the assembly that it attaches to dropped down in my mixing bowl! What holds this assembly up? I did not find any...

Hi DASCO474. This is not good... From the symptoms you describe your mixer’s Agitator shaft is dropping from the Planetary assembly. Something has caused the retaining clip and pin to break so allowing the agitator shaft to drop.
Fortunately the inspection and troubleshooting of the inside of your mixer is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at:
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case: KP26M1, and select one of the first two files listed under Parts List (47) (The first file, KP26M1XAZ4.pdf (304.18 KB), is for a -4 series model and the second file, KP26M1XAZ5.pdf (724.41 KB) is for a -5 series with slightly different insides, so make sure you have the correct Parts List manual.)
Turn to pages 4 & 5 entitled “Case, Gearing And Planetary Unit” for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. Locate Illus. No. 28, Planetary Assembly and Illus. No. 34, Agitator Shaft. The parts which hold the Agitator Shaft within the Planetary are Illus. Nos. 9, Retaining Pin and 30, Retaining Clip. I suspect these parts have failed and will need to be replaced. Now the real fun begins!

To get to the Agitator Shaft gear you’ll need the following tools: a regular or Phillips screw driver, retaining clip pliers, and a small drift pin punch and a small hammer. After removing the Gearcase Motor Housing (mixer top) you will need to remove the Transmission Housing (Illus No. 4) and remove all the lubricating grease from the transmission housing and gears. This will allow you to remove Illus No. 7, 8, 9 & 10, Retaining Clip, Bevel Gear, Retaining Pin and Worm Gear Follower, respectively.
Once you remove the Retaining Pin (Illus. No. 9) the Planetary Assembly can be tapped down through the Lower Gearcase Assembly (Illus. No 11). With the Planetary removed, you should find all the parts which slide on the Agitator Shaft (Illus. Nos. 30, 31, 32, & 33) and pieces of the retaining pin, which should be loose in the base of the Planetary.
Besides ordering a new retaining pin and clip, you might want to reorder the Transmission Cover Gasket (Illus No. 6), too. You’ll also need to replace the grease you removed with new grease. Do not try to reuse any original grease as it may have ‘debris’ in it. You should use a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call).
With your mixer apart and the grease removed from the gears you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the gears, too.
Here are five potential vendors in no particular order:;;;; and (for grease). You should search for ‘food grade grease’ online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer. The mixers displayed in the links are different KA models, but the principles are the same.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble, determine what’s wrong, order the correct parts and reassemble your mixer.
Good luck. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has helped you, please rate it, thanks! - hslincoln

Feb 03, 2010 | Food Mixers

1 Answer


Hi DAVE, Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! The inspection and troubleshooting of the inside of your mixer is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website:
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case: KP26M1, and select one of the first two files listed under Parts List (47) (The first file, KP26M1XAZ4.pdf (304.18 KB), is for a -4 series model and the second file, KP26M1XAZ5.pdf (724.41 KB) is for a -5 series with slightly different insides, so make sure you have the correct Parts List manual.) (For the purpose of this solution I will use the 5 Series Parts manual. Substitute accordingly if you have a 4 Series model.)
Turn to pages 4 & 5, titled “Case, Gearing and Planetary Unit”, which provides and exploded view for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts.
(1) Remove your KA Decorative Trim Band (Illus No. 3) by removing one (1) screw (Illus No. 22).
(2) Remove the four (4) head cover screws (Illus No 14) and lift of the mixer head cover (Gearcase Motor Housing top, Illus No. 1).
(3) Next, remove the two (2) screws (Illus. No. 14) securing your (Speed) Control Assembly (Ilus. No. 19) so you can move the Control Assembly out of the way. This will allow you better access to the Transmission Housing (Illus. No. 4).
(4) Remove the four (4) Transmission Housing screws (Illus. No. 14). Carefully lift the Transmission Housing off the base. The Transmission Cover Gasket (Illus. No. 6) may come off with the Hosuing or remain on the base. (Recommend reordering a new gasket if damaged)
(5) Remove all grease from inside the transmission cover and off all your gears. (This is the messy/fun part. While cleaning away the current grease, be sure to be keep and eye out for metal ‘filings’ that may be suspended in the grease.
(6) Remove the Worm Gear drive assembly (Illus. Nos. 16, 17, and 18) and set aside.
(7) Remove Retaining Clip (Illus. No. 7) from the Planetary shaft.
(8) Remove (lift up) the Bevel Gear (Illus. No. 8) from the Planetary shaft. This may require a little friendly persuasion, but it should eventually slide off the shaft exposing the Retaining Pin (Illus. No. 9).
(9) Remove the Retaining Pin. It should come out easily in either direction.
(10)You can remove the Worm Gear Follower (Illus. No. 10) but once the retaining pin is removed, you should be able to push the Planetary Assembly (Illus. No. 28) down through the Lower Center Bearing (Illus. No. 12). A few taps with a soft faced mallet may be required.
You now have access to the Planetary gear and Agitator Shaft Assembly (Illus. No. 34). Apply the same techniques to remove/replace any components from the Agitator shaft.
Assemble in reverse order above.
Continued in "Comments" - hslincoln

Dec 28, 2009 | KitchenAid K45SS Classic Stand Mixer

1 Answer

Remove shaft/gear on KA 6qt Pro

Beth, First you should have the parts manual (Pt No. 8212278 Rev D) in your possession. You can download a PDF file from Kitchenaid, if you don't have it. Once you've have the manual, turn to page 4 - Case, Gearing and Planetary Unit.
I'm also assuming you're able to disassemble the mixer and access Illus. No. 4 - Transmission Housing. You want to remove the cover and place to the side. (Be careful of all the grease inside the cover and on the gears) Next wipe the gears and shaft clear of the grease. You want to get to Illus. No 10, so first you must remove Illus. No. 7 - Retaining Clip using a pair of external clip ring pliers. Next, lift Illus No. 8 - Bevel Gear off the shaft. Next, remove Illus. No 9 - Retaining Pin. That will finally allow you to lift Illus. No 10 - Worm Gear Follower of the shat.
I hope this helps.

Oct 20, 2009 | KitchenAid KP26M1X Stand Mixer

2 Answers

Loose gear

Lock out-Tagout the machine. Remove the top cover, hold the beater shaft while removing the center shaft nut. Then remove the 4 bolts and and hardware on top of the first(worm) shaft and the second(clutch)shaft. you can gently tap the top cover up with a cold chisel on the upper parts of the housing. It's just a friction fit , aligned on two dowels. Once the cover is off, scoop out the grease, remove the side panel and selector assembly. Try and lift all of the first gear assembly together. the newer ones have a series of rollers and springs, which can be easily reassembled, if you see which way everything was. As you rmove parts, lay them on a clean surface in a row in the position they came out. The selector sleeve is marked TOP, but looking at the 4 drive teeth each side, you will see how it drives 2nd and 3rd gears. The clutch and worm shafts lift out together from slip fit bearings in the housing base.

When reassembling, coat everything with new grease, and run before loading all the grease. If you need to remove anything , you won't be up to your wrists in grease doing it. Once all is good, load the grease in the top hole nearest the motor with it running. The gears will feed the grease as you load the 35 OZ.
If you removed the planetary to remove the center shaft, don't tighten the half nut tight. back it off a half turn and lock it with the acorn nut. Otherwise you will loose first gear from pinch friction.

Sep 14, 2009 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

Sunbeam Mixmaster 12 speed may need lubrication

Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.

On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-

There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.

On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.

Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.

Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.

Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.

The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.

After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)

Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.

Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.

Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..

There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.

Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.

Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.

Part 2, speed control.

The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....

Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.

Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.

Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.

Put everything back the way it came off.

To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.

Replace the chrome cap and you're done.

May 12, 2009 | Sunbeam 2485 MixMaster Series Hand Mixer

1 Answer

Hobart A200 Worm Gear Shredding Brass Gear

no there are no adjustments . you must have bent the case just a little , i dont see any good news for you , sorry . i have worked on hobart mixers for years and you should get 5-10 years out of that gear

Jan 15, 2009 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

2 Answers

Hobart A-200 serial # ?

Hi. Your mixer was manufactured in 1967. If you plan on keeping it, take the outer cover off, gently remove the two metal dust caps with a small screwdriver and look into each opening with a good flashlight to determine the quality and amount of grease in the trans. case.

Ideally the grease should almost fill the space with no oil visible. If you need to look further, I suggest that you open up the transmission cover, to determine the condition of the grease that lubricates the transmission. If you find that oil is seperating from the grease. you would do well to remove all of the oil and old grease and replace it with either Shell Darina EP-2, or Chevron FM ALC EP-2 grease. It's a messy job, but it will add years of life to your mixer.

Check the planetary seal, remove, clean and regrease the planetary gearing. With a mixer of this age, you never know if it has ever been serviced since it's manufacture or not. The grease must totaly encapsulate the trans. gears. As the grease breaks down it's level lowers and it leaves some of the upper gears without lubrication, and will result in preventable wear.

Good luck! If you found this solution helpful, please rate it. ricardok45

Mar 02, 2008 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

6 Answers

Mixer leaking oil

I called KitchenAid about this issue with my mixer. The agent on the phone told me they are aware that it tends to happen to some mixers after they sit for some time. Basically, a "lifetime" of grease has been packed into the assembly and it is normal for it to release grease on occasion. I was told to run the mixer at 10 for at least 2 minutes to get it going and I should see a reduction in the oil leak. I had about a tablespoon worth of oil dripping down off the assembly. I was told that if over time it seemed to amount to about 1/4 cup then I should call to see about repairs due to a potentially bad seal. I was also told that the repair for that would most likely NOT cost the same as a new appliance.

Nov 26, 2006 | KitchenAid KSM90 Ultra Power Series Stand...

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