When using the nv10 in the dayligh the images are messed up. If I go in a dark place and use the flash, everything is ok. But in the dayligh the images have lines all over and are too bright. You cannot see what is the picture about. Tried everything. All options, rest.. nothing works.
I phone up customer services and they said that the problem is likely to be mechanical, therefore, the best thing to do is to send it in to them to the address on the back of the instruction manual with a covering letter explaining your problem. You have to include a proof of purchase (such as a receipt/bank statement/confirmation email) and don't include any accessories when you send it (eg. cases, memory cards) by recorded mail.
Hope this helps,
Make sure u are using the auto setting. the nv10 has a very powerful manual setting that if you are interested in maximizing your creative photography and having alot more control on how the pictures come out i would recomend picing up a book at your local book store. i learned Alot from a book my friend let me barrow called K.I.S.S. Guide to Photography by John Garrett a book like that will explain to you why there is soo much light in your picture and how to correct the problem. i have an nv10 try this. when u are on auto on the top right of the screen there will be two things u can chenge dark to bright and warm to cool. also make sure you dont have the macro set to on. i hope i helped
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
Well a good photographer dosen't use a auto to much. Second you can solve this problem by
buying a 36r or 50 r flash. Next put your camera into aperture priorty the flash will now sync up to 4000.
I hope this solves your problem.. email@example.com www.storyboardvideo.com
You can charge your camera directly or by using the cradle that came with your camera. With either option you use the USB port on your PC as the power source OR the wall adapter as the power source. You can see images to do this on the User's Manual on pages 11-12.
You can turn on the power with either a long or a short press. You will get a good idea how long a press should be by counting from the time you press the button to the time the display comes on. This is usually 1-3 seconds.
The problem here is likely the auto setting. Put it to sunny, clear day instead of indoor picture and you should be ok. Also, point it at neutral colored objects when you take the picture and allow it time to adjust by holding the button in partway before depressing it fully.