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your LCD monitor has a defective cathode driver inside, it will shut down your monitor when it has short circuit or has defective cathode bulb. you have to open your LCD case to see the circuit .you need screw driver set plus and negative to open the case. if your have knowledge in troubleshooting you can check the circuit if it has a short or defective part at the cathode driver, it has two small transformer that supplying the 2 or 4cathode tube in upper and lower screen of lcd
You have a problem with the buttons on your monitor. The symptoms you describe indicates that the problem is with the menu button acting like it is being constantly pressed. It often caused by debris getting into the button. To troubleshoot, you will need to open the case of the monitor to clean/repair the problem. To do that, you will need a putty knife and seperate the two bezel from the back panel. To help you explain how to open the monitor look at this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Q6_TgNJvQw Hope this helps you.
poginga, Try visit to YOUTUBE for video clips "lcd monitor disassembly" and or "lcd monitor repair" to get basic idea of how to !!! DO NOT USE SHARP BLADED INSTRUMENTS OR YOU WILL END UP IN THE LOCAL "ER" TRYING TO EXPLAIN THE BLOOD GUSHING OUT FROM YOUR BODY" 12fixlouie
First remove the stand. Then at the bottom of the monitor there are two small openings an inch or two from each edge. Starting there with WIDE flat blade screw driver (or a couple of them) it IS possible to pop the catches that hold the back of the case to the front. You have to go around the case very carefully popping each catch and preventing the areas you have opened from becoming re-latched. I found some wood popsicle sticks good for that.
If you search for "LCD Monitor Repair" you can find sites that have video's of several Dell models (but not this exact one) any that use the "pop open" case are pretty much similar.
One note after you get inside. The power supply board had the WORST solder job I have seen in a long time. The failure in the unit I repaired was due to open solder joints on the hi-voltage transformers taking out the power transistor's that drove them. It took me two months, but I found some replacement transistors on ebay and after resoldering many of the joints on the board it the monitor works fine.
I attribute part of the failure to the use of Lead free solder which is becoming common in all consumer electronics. It makes for brittle connections that fail easily and there is also the issue of tin whisker growth that will hit in a few years down the road.
Just done mine and the plastic case/frame is secured with clips all the way around. Remove the stand/bracket screws Place the panel on its top edge and look down on the underside join. You will see two small notches where you can get a pen knife/lever in. Dont poke in too far especially where the buttons are. Now lever the back off the front by leaning your knife/lever in the same direction as the screen front. Once you have the first clips free you can work all the way around in the same way taking care not to damage the plastic much.
I hope that helps someone else who is stuck like me at first and found this Q unanswered and eventually I decided I had nothing to loose lol. Regards