My washer is about 3 years old and gets heavy use (family of 5, including 3 small boys wearing cloth diapers...not all at once mind you, but sequentially).
In the past month a noise has started during the wash cycles. It can best be described as a ticking or chirping sound at ~1 second intervals when the washer is in slow spin, or agitation mode. The noise stops during the fast spin out. The noise does not occur at all if I manually rotate the tub when it is not washing or if I run the washer without anything in it. Washing performance does not seem to be affected, but the noise is annoying and I am nervous that it indicates a more significant problem developing.
Any help, advice, suggestions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Ticking/chirping sound during slow spin
It will more than likely be a bra wire stuck between inner and outer drum it will only sound when clothing is in it due to the weight of clothing and water so it wont be heard with just water init or by pushing it around by hand only thing u can really do is eiether strip it yourself or by getting an engineer in but what i would do is leave it after a while it will dislodge itself and go into the pipe underneath the washer in the pipe that is in the middle of the drum check this when the sound stops love
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For best results with cloth diapers, you should go with the Stoffwindel. As their cloth diapers can be the best option for you baby because the baby will have fewer rashes, it is bacteria free and will save your money because it is washable so that you can reuse it after washing it. Cloth Diapers are just as easy to use as disposables. Your family is reducing their carbon footprint by using cloth diapers.
Yes, its basically in need of a overhaul, which the parts involved, basket drive/clutch and gearcase are all wearing out, I've seen this happen many times and cause the squeal/spin cycle and then in time to slow then stop spinning altogether.
From the parts diagram it said this model was made in 1998. The only time I have changed these parts on a model this old is when the customer purchased a service contract when it was new and kept paying on the contact year after year, thus the repair was free to them, but most of the time its NOT practical to keep paying on a service contact for up to 10 years unless you have heavy/extreme, daily/many times of day use of the washer, usually for large families living in the same household.
Here's the list of parts I always change for this issue, now some members and techs. could possibly change just the basket drive/clutch assembly or just the clutch alone and it may work for another 6 months or year and a half, but I found when I used to change the parts separately I had to go back to change the other parts within 6-18 months.
Well try to set the washer on the regular cycle, large load and let it fill. After the washer fills to the selected level, the motor should start and the agitator should start agitating. If you hear the motor running, but the agitator doesn't move at all, do the following:- Stop the washer and set the timer on the spin cycle and let it run. If the washer motor runs and the washer empties the water from the tank, but it won't spin, that is an indication that the motor coupler is not turning the transmission at all. The motor coupler is made of two pieces of plastic called fingers and a hard rubber piece that goes in between the two fingers. One of the fingers is attached to the motor and the other finger is attached to the transmission. The had rubber round piece goes between the two fingers. When one of the plastic fingers breaks, the motor is no longer coupled to the transmission and the washer will not agitate or spin dry the clothes. The reason that the motor coupler breaks before it should, it is that the user overloads the washer. People stuff the washer with too much clothes, big comforters, small placer rugs, snickers, etc. Another reason is that the washer is used every day; normally the washer is used 3 times a week. So if you have a washer that is 5 years old and you use it every day, it has the wear and tear of a washer that is 10 years old. Replacing the motor coupler is not hard to do, once you see how the repair is done. You will save at least $100 by replacing the motor coupler yourself.
If The washer won't agitate Check to make sure no clothing got wrapped around the agitator. Check the lid switch, timer, and drive belt, other potential causes, such as a bad transmission or bad agitate/spin solenoid, but they are much more involved.
if the washer won't spin, the lid switch, timer, drive belt, transmission, or agitate/spin solenoid could be the cause here as well. Sometimes if the load is unbalanced or too heavy, the washer won't spin. Take some of the clothes out and try the spin cycle again with a lighter load.
Here are the steps to replace the agitator. 1: Take the fabric softener dispenser off and pry off the agitator lid. 2: Use a socket wrench with an extension bar to remove the stud and seal. 3: Remove the agitator top and bottom. 4: Check the agitator clutch assembly (located in the agitator top) for excessive wear. 5: To replace, just reverse the directions.
Sounds like the coupler broke. This connects the motor to the trans. The part is only like 25.00 and labor is about 140. When it tries to spin if the basket doesn't move at all, then this is it. If the basket is really slow or easily stopped with your hands then the clutch/trans. could be bad. More times than not, it's just the coupler. These are made to break under heavy load, so it doesn't hurt anything else. They are just rubber and plastic and sometimes break for no reason. Push the lid switch with a pen or something with the lid up and try to spin to see what happens.
CHECK TO MAKE SURE ALL THE SUSPENSION SPRINGS ARE CONNECTED INSIDE THE WASHER. IF SO, THERE IS A SNUBBER UNDER THE WASHER MILKSTOOL THAT IS MADE OUT OF PLASTIC THAT CAN WEAR AND NOT ALLOW THE SUSPENSION TO GLIDE LIKE IT IS SUPPOSED TO. NOT THE EASIEST FIX DUE TO THE BRAKE BEING UNDER HEAVY SPRING PRESSURE. USE CAUTION