Rpm gauge I'm woundering how to fix my rpm gauge. It currently doesn't work at all. Is it afuse I should change or is it the wiring kit that isn't good anymore or the old owner cut the wire perhaps. Where and how can I fix this?! Thanks. Jessy G

Sounds like the wiring harness was damaged or left disconnected when the engine was installed.

The alternator may not be getting a voltage signal from the gauge or warning light to activate it, or it may be charging but the current is not reaching the battery due to a problem with the 10 gauge wire.

You may have to replace the cluster in the dash. Sometimes those fuses go. On my 750il the eml light went out on the dash and made the whole car go into limp mode.

Remove it..Probably installed incorrectly . Tach is probably incorrectly wired into the distributor harness and effecting rpm voltage to the speedometer and may possibly blown the voltage regulator to the gauge in the dash.

It may be the sending unit in the tank that needs replacing. Here's how you can check: Turn the key on and disconnect the sender unit at the gas tank. Ground the sender unit's wire with a jumper wire from the truck's harness to ground. Watch the gauge. If the gauge on the dash is good, grounding the sender wire will cause the gauge needle to react and should move to full. This would indicate a new sending unit is required. If the gauge doesn't move when the sender unit is grounded, the gauge is bad and needs replacing. Pull the instrument cluster out to replace the gas gauge. Likely any old ford gas gauge might work-back then, there were not so many production changes.

Do not exceed the engine RPM red line is all I can suggest.

I have a 2006 kia amanti and engine light was on code said crank shaft sensor So I changed it put all together now code comes up P0320....Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit ?? rpm gauge don't work anymore

A miss or mist? If it is mist, possibly radiator hose, heater hose, oil sending unit. What kind of fluid is it? If it is a miss then first thing would be change the spark plugs if they haven't been changed in a while. If it keeps missing after that try pulling the spark plug wires one at a time with some spark plug wire pliers. If you pull one and it doesn't make a difference then that is the cylinder that isn't working. Put a spark plug in that wire and see if it is firing by grounding the base of spark plug and watching it. If it doesn't fire first try putting on a spark plug wire, if that doesn't fix it, you must have a bad coil pack. If you have spark when doing the test above then maybe an injector that isn't working. Please rate my answer so I am rewarded points for it.

The easiest thing to do would be change the sending unit on the motor. If you go to a place like NAPA they will sell you one and also tell you where it is on the motor. If that doesn't fix the problem I would look over the wiring coming off of the sensor and see if anything is cut, or has a abrasion and grounding out. If that is all ok. Then you make be forced to change out your instrument cluster. Please rate my answer so I am rewarded points for it.

Initially I would agree fuel pressure had dropped off after shut down. This fuel filter is a sock screen attached to the fuel inlet tube of the fuel pump and is located inside the fuel tank with the fuel pump. This screen is rarely the cause. You'll need a fuel pump pressure gauge to verify the low fuel pressure at start up. Caution, sometimes this low pressure isn't a faulty pump, sometimes it's a poor wiring connection to the pump motor. An analog amp meter can verify if there is fluctuation/ing current flow to the fuel pump. A fluctuating current flow could mean poor connections, or could mean the pump has/is gone/going bad.