1993 ford e350 cutaway

Welcome to the world of Ford Truck!!! The rear rotors come off the same way that the front rotors come off, only they get REALLY stuck to the rear hub assembly. Once you have removed the caliper and caliper mounting frame, take a BIG hammer and BEAT the rotors loose.

They make a "drum and rotor puller" for this job, but it is pretty expensive - especially if you are only going to do one set of brakes...even most professionals that do these all the time cannot justify the cost of the tool. The rotors for your truck are not that expensive, and they usually get destroyed trying to get them off anyway...so we always replace them at our shop.

Here ya go! This is for the rear brake pads removal:

Removal & Installation

1. Remove the brake master cylinder filler cap. Check brake fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir. Remove fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
4. Inspect the brake pads for wear or contamination. If worn, damaged or past specification, install new components.
   
5. Remove the caliper pin bolts.
   
6. Remove the rear disc brake caliper.
   
7. Remove the brake pads and rail clips.
   
8. Inspect the disc brake caliper for leaks. If leaks are found, disassembly is required.
   
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Observe the following torques:
   
   • Caliper bolts: 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm)
     
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Your Buick has front disc brakes...and rear drum brakes...the usual concern is the front pads as they are used more...these are the easiest pads to replace...as you only need to remove the caliper from the rotor with 2 bolts to lift off...Be sure to push the piston all the way back into the caliper to install new pads...rotors are pop offs too...The rear drum is different...the brake shoes are held on with clips and springs...try keeping one of the shoe assemblies intact while you switch out the other shoes...be sure to inspect the rear wheel brake cylinders for possible leaking...usually an oil build up inside the brake drum...these are inexpensive and should be switched out on a 93 Buick...:) Hope this helps.

Using the C-Clamp is the proper way to retract the pistons. So it wasn`t your fault for the aABS light.
check the brake fluid level, check the wheel speed sensors connection on all 4 wheels,
Drive vehicle for a few miles too see if the ABS resets itself.
If the light is still on, then have the truck checked with a SCANNER for the ABS problem..

Good question, on the antilock system is a bleader too and bleade it the same way you bleade the caliper. After all is done adjust the rear brakes, they should have a drag to them.

Need purge the system for air inside!!!!

First, if the recall applies to your van, it can be done anytime. There is no time limit on recalls. Call your dealer with your 17 Digit VIN number and they can check. Please rate as solved if this is what you need. thanks.

Here is the recall:

Safety Recall 92S44 - Certain 1988-1991 F250/350 Trucks for Loss of Front Brake Effectiveness
Affected Vehicles
Certain 1988-1991 F250/350 trucks over 8500 lb GVW with 7.5L EFI or 7.3L diesel (4x2 and 4x4) and 5.8L EFI (4x4 only). Trucks under 8500 lb GVW. 5.8L EFI (4x2) and F-Super Duty light trucks are not involved in this recall. Specific vehicle information is as follows:

AFFECTED VEHICLES ASSEMBLY PLANT PRODUCTION DATES F250/350 Norfolk Job#1 1988 to 4/18/91 Kansas City Job#1 1988 to 4/25/91 Ont. Truck Job#1 1988 to 5/1/91 Mich. Truck Job#1 1988 to 5/11/91 Twin Cities Job#1 1988 to 5/29/91
Reasons For Recall
In certain extremely severe driving conditions, the vehicle may experience a loss of front brake effectiveness due to overheating of brake fluid. These vehicles have a split brake system and the rear brakes remain operational. This condition has been reported primarily in vehicles operated in mountainous regions, and on vehicles that have been in service for a minimum of one to two years and where the brake fluid has absorbed moisture from the air, lowering its boiling point. It usually involves heavily loaded vehicles driving on long, steep grades, or when towing at, or near, the Maximum Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) for towing. Warm weather also appears to contribute to this condition. To correct this condition, dealers will install insulators in the front brake caliper pistons on all the affected trucks. 7.5L EFI engine equipped trucks will also have insulation installed on selected portions of the front brake lines.
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PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION CLASS DEALER PRICE F2TZ-2C361-A Kit-Brake Caliper Piston Insulator (All Except 7.5L Engines) BG F2TZ-2C361-B Kit-Brake Tube Insulator Jacket (Required Only For Vehicles Equipped With 7.5L EFI Engines) Kit Also Includes Brake Caliper Piston Insulators

Brake Caliper Piston Insulator Kit
Installation Instructions

1. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
2. Remove the brake calipers from the rotors. Refer to the appropriate shop manual for the procedures.
3. Remove the inner and outer brake linings.
4. Inspect the brake caliper pistons. If the pistons are phenolic, (brown in color) no modifications are required. Reassemble the calipers as described in the shop manual. If the truck is equipped with a 7.5L EFI engine, install the brake tube insulator kit. If the truck is not equipped with an 7.5L EFI engine, install the wheels and tires and release the truck.
   If the pistons are aluminum, continue as described below.
   
5. Remove the steel retainer and Nomex thermal washers from the kit.
6. Place a steel retainer on a bench with the tabs facing up. Refer to Figure 1.
7. Place a Nomex thermal washer over the tabs so that it rests on the barb of each tab. Then, carefully press it over the barb of one of the tabs. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining tabs.
   • 
     NOTE:
     Do not bend the tabs. The inner edge of the washer may crease slightly as it passes over the barb. This is permissible provided that the crease can be smoothed out once the washer is in place. The washer must be installed without tearing.
     
     
8. Push the washer down onto the back face of the retainer. Be sure it is seated uniformly on the retainer. Once installed, do not use an adhesive or other aid to hold it in place. This is neither necessary nor permissible.
9. Snap an assembled insulator into the inside diameter of each caliper piston. Be sure the assembly is firmly seated on the rim of the piston. See Figure 2.
10. Install the inner and outer brake linings.
11. Clean the caliper slide surfaces on the caliper and the spindle with a wire brush and lubricate with Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease, D7AZ-19590-A (ESA-M1C172-A) or equivalent.
12. Reinstall the brake calipers. Refer to the appropriate shop manual for the procedures.
13. Install the wheel and tire assemblies.

Check that you have got an earth at both rear light clusters.

Check for fluid leaks, possibly rear brake cylinders. has anything else been replaced prior to this concern?

are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?