Amp has 3 modes on it ,as a switch,what is this,it has a 2,3,4 channel mode,i have the gold dhd 1000watt x4 channel
My amp has a mode selector,2,3,4 mode switch
built into the cross over section of the amp,
it is the 1000watt 4 channel amp,which i have bridged into 2 channel driving 2x 12 inch pioneer svc 800watt subs,on my low level input i have 4 rca inputs which have an rca linked to it.
MY QUESTION IS,WHAT MODE SHOULD I RUN THE AMP ON,TO REALLY MAKE MY WOOFERS POUND.
OR WHAT DO YOU GUYS RECONMEND TO GET THE SUBS CRACKING,SO TO SPEAK.THE LPF IS @ 60HERTS,OF A PRE AMP WITH SUB MODE OUTPUT SWITCH SET AT 90HERTS,ITS A 7VOLT RMS PRE AMP.
THE TROUBLE IS I FEEL THAT THE DHD NTX2009 COULD OFFER ME MORE THAN ITS DOING AT THE MOMENT.
IT ,AT THE MOMENT GIVES ME JUST UNDER 140 DB,OFF A 2FARAD CAPACITOR.
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Re: amp has 3 modes on it ,as a switch,what is this,it...
First thing 1000@4 means 250w per ch. which means150w usable power.the mode switch is only to reduce rca cables,use 2ch mode if only 1 pair rca available,60hz is a bit low for this amp,90 would work better.
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I assume you are replacing the built-in Audiobahn power amplifier with your 4 channel Soundstream amp. If so, you can set the Soundstream for bridge mode which should net you 2 high power channels of 250Wrms@4ohms or 500Wrms total power (if the speakers are quad VC), or alternatively, non bridged for 4x125Wrms (if the speakers are dual VC). You can see why below.
Next, you need to confirm each subwoofers coil configuration as follows: If each woofer is quad, there will be 8 connectors; if dual VC, then there will be 4 connectors. For dual VC, if each VC is 4ohm, you can choose between 8 or 2 ohms by series or parallel wiring. If each VC is 2 ohm, you can have 4 ohms in series to use. This can be determined with an ohm meter across one set of VC terminals. If you can get 4 ohm for each speaker, this will allow you to use the 2 channel bridged mode with each speaker getting the full 250W. If each VC is 2 ohm, use non bridged mode and run each of the 4 channels to each VC. For this case, use a 2 to 1 RCA jack to sum the two channels for each speaker on the amp's input side to make the signal 2 channel instead of 4 channel. Below are examples of quad and dual VC for reference only, the wiring may not match your setup which will depend on your VC resistance (impedance) measurement. Don't forget to set your HPF(High Pass Filter) as this is a subwoofer setup.
My thoughts are that the amp has a poor channel separation but usually you can only hear a very quiet trace of the sound through the undriven channel. I agree with Taurus and make sure that the switch is making contact and moving all the pins to the proper points. This is a Home stereo amp, it comes with an extended 6 year warranty if you register it, I would check into getting a warranty repair before doing anything to it! Looks like a nice quality piece, those dip switches are a little bit confusing but the way it's built it is necessary to have them. It has a Dual Mono amp section so there is no way that any sound can be crossing over unless the swithches are directing it. The only way that can happen is in Parallel or in Mono. You could be in Stereo / Mono which would input both channels and output 3 settings a 1, 2 in Stereo & a Mono, Try hooking a speaker up to the Mono/ Bridge outputs and see if it's louder than just hooked up to 1 or 2. Parallel inputs will give you Mono 1 & 2 with Bridge off, and might give you Mono 1 & 2 with a bridged Mono if the bridge is on, like 3 channels all mono with one getting twice as much power as the 1 & 2 will put out. Although they have it labeled to not use it in those settings it's possible to do. I can see why you would be checking the switches. It may actually be labeled incorrectly , as strange as it seems, many Chinese products have been made with labeling errors. Plus and minus have been wrong on Asian Made car amps so it's not that inconceivable that this may have some incorrect settings shown?
Well it could be the selector switch, but I doubt it. Generally, the service light means something is not working that the computer controls. Solenoids and valves are a couple of possibilities. The transfer case is shifted by solenoids commanded by the body computer based on the switch position on the dash. You should be able to have a shop scan the body computer for trouble codes and proceed from there. A basic code reader may not access the body computer.
NO dont tie the inputs. Inputs stay just as they are. Outputs are where the bridging happens.
You amp specs are:
4 CHANNEL POWER CHROME/WHITE AMPLIFIER MAX OUTPUT POWER (2 OHM): 200W X 4 = 800W POWER OUTPUT: 90W X 4 @2 OHM (360W) LESS THAN 0.5% THD 60W X 4 @4 OHM (240W) LESS THAN 0.3% THD BRIDGED 180W X 2CH @4 OHM
So lets take 800 watts and divide by 13Volts DC = 61.54 Amps
So if there are 2 fuses start with 30 amp. To play it safe you could use 25 amps and if they blow try a 30. Now if the 30 blows you may need to take
another look at your wiring. I think 30 will be fine though.
Run it in 3 channel with 1 to subs and the other 2 to the right and left front speakers or just don't hook up the channels you don't want to use.
It would be a shame to not use this amp to its full potential
actually the tuner is in the vcr mode.
to get the channels to set,you have to autoprogram the tuner,and then they can be changed using the up down buttons.
rca make a universal remote for 10 bucks that will run that vcr
It sounds like the problem is with the amp. try using the other sub in bridged mode and see if it still turns it off. If it still turns off then its definitely the amp. In 2 channel mode you are using each channel at 4 ohms right? and in bridged mode to 1 speaker it should be throwing a ton of power on a 4 ohm load as well,it should work fine bro -its gotta be the amp