Both high heat cycle on my Kenmore electric dryer stops quickly

Check your entire vent tubing from the outside vent to the line coming out of the back of the dryer.
Overheating indicates low air discharge flow. The air in the dryer must move out quickly so the heat doesn't build up too much.
Try that & post back.

Gary

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

check the high limit switch/thermostat on the burner housing and if they are weak they will cycle the heat off too soon and it wont build the heat you have it set for,just bypass it with a jumper wire to test it,if this is the problem,dont leave it bypassed,replace it as it is a safety feature to prevent a fire

change the hi-limit/cycling switch on the element case as it is getting weak and cycles the element too soon so you dont get enough heat output

Could be the heat switch on the motor or a grounded heat element

The motor runs on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC. Cycle the dryer circuit breaker. Other than a simple issue like that, the problem could be a bad heating element, thermostat, high limit control, thermal fuse, motor centrifugal switch, timer or electronic control. It can also be a wiring issue.

your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck

it sounds like you need a set of thermo switches. one may have stopped functioning. a service tech can test them easily. should be low cost

The heating element DOES cycle on and off through the cycling of the high limit thermostat. When was the last time you inspected the dryer vent and/or inside the dryer for lint? This sounds like you could have a couple of possible issues. Either you have a dryer that can't breath (Meaning, the vent hose is clogged from where it leaves the dryer to the vent outside. Or...the dryer may be clogged inside the air baffle inside the dryer where the lint screen goes.), or you could have a high limit thermostat that is malfunctioning. Now...the dryer will get hot to some degree, but it shouldn't be excessive. Here's a recommendation:

1. Remove the dryer vent hose from the dryer and turn the dryer on. Is the air leaving the dryer forceful and warm? (it should measure about 140 degrees F) If so...you probably have a clog or kink in the ducting somewhere between the dryer and where it exits the house. If the air is weak and cool, you will need to inspect your dryer interior to find what is obstructing the air flow. Rodents are notorious for building nests inside the event line or air baffle.

2. Can you access the heating element so you can see it? Start the dryer with the casing removed so you can watch the heating element. The element should glow red, but not so bright that it glows like the sun, and it should cycle on and off. If it glows continuously, the high limit thermostat is a likely suspect and should be replaced. (NOTE: It is recommended that you replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cut-out at the same time. Some manufacturers will sell the two as a pair).

HINTS: If you have a lint screen in the door, you should be able to access the heating element by removing a panel under the door. If your lint screen is on top of the washer, you will have to remove the rear panel of the dryer to see the heating element.

If the dryer is left to run in an overheat condition, the thermal cut-out and/or heating element will eventually blow. It is recommended that you inspect the dryer to see what is causing your current problem.

CAUTION: Always unplug the dryer if you are servicing the inside of the unit. Dangerous voltages are present even with the unit turned off. Also, unplug the dryer if you have to remove the rear panel. The 220VAC terminal is directly behind the panel and can cause electric shock if touched.

I hope this information helps you. Do your homework and post back if you need any further assistance.

Electric or gas?