To be more specific... I am that way, If I think an answer is not specific enough, I tend to get more to the point, then allow a brief generic answer to slide by.
A "Test Light" such as this one...
Professional 6 12V Circuit Tester Indicator Light Lifetime Warranty
Has no battery within it. It has the handle that houses a Light bulb and a sharp end probe, like an ice pick. Attached to that is a cord, and usually there is a clamp on the end of that. This cord will be attached to a "Ground" source. A bolt, body frame, anything that is Grounded! Many times a little wire brush on a bolt or sandpaper/emery cloth provides a better ground source. When this cord is attached to a good ground source, to light the bulb, the sharp end of the probe will be touching a "Positive" Hot source. This tester like many others has a variable voltage that can be input: 6 volts - 12 volts. So, When you begin probing to do your testing, whether you want to know if a wire is hot or not, this is a good tool. Most common usage of this type of tool is to locate a dead wire/short. With the wire portion of the tool grounded, you begin to poke into the suspected wires... normally the bulb will light up, following the wire downstream you keep going along testing. Hopefully you will eventually come to a spot where the tool no longer lights up. Then you may have found the break in the wire. Going back up to where it lights, confirming going back down to where it won't light up. Somewhere between those two points, is a break in the wire
I Hope I did not over do the answer?
Some of them you can used to put 12 V on a circuit, but it uses the 12V system battery
No, it doesn't take a battery. Just a bulb and a ground lead with a clip on the end-to clamp to a ground source. You can check the bulb and the test light operation by touching the ground lead to negative battery post, then touch the probe end to the positive post-tester should light up brightly.
SOURCE: The gas, brake, battery, cruise control, and 02
It sounds to me like the voltage regulator is acting screwy.I believe on your vehicle it is an integral part of the alternator.The alt.may be testing satisfactory as far as output but it may not be regulateing the voltage correctly.
SOURCE: 2002 honda Civic. Ran
A discharged battery could have caused this problem,you must have left accessories or lights on...if your battery is working well then it must be the starter...
SOURCE: 1995 mystique, battery light is on, 12 volts
Was the old alternator tested to see if it was bad? If it was and all wires are in good shape and reconnected the new alternator the new one may be bad also. It can happen.
SOURCE: red battery light on dash
Charging is sufficient you want 2 volts above battery, for that dash to be on there will be a terminal on the alternator that is not connected it is a single wire you will need to make sure that it is connected,the terminal have tendency to break off and sometimes people who put the alternator on forget to put that terminal on they just dont see it it a wire by itself
SOURCE: Battery tests at 12 volts but won't start but starts with jumper cables to other car
Check the voltage when cranking the engine, if it drops below 10 or 11 volts the battery probably needs replacing. Also check the voltage when it is running, it should be 14 volts or more. If it is not then the alternator is not charging.
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