Question about Hotpoint FFM90 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
Hi there, we have a Servis fridge-freezer model number M7684S-A. We've just moved into the house, and the appliance came with the house, however we don't know when it was purchased/history etc. The freezer works normally however the fridge just doesn't seem to be cooling properly. We've looked on various forums, and the first advice seems to be check for air flow at openings, however we cannot find openings in the fridge for the air flow. There is a low humming noise coming from the freezer/fridge when turned on, but it doesn't sound loud enough to be a fan. We've taken the grill off the back, and there wasn't any dust there. We checked the plastic tube coming out the back of the fridge behind the grill, and that was clear/empty (no water/no ice blockages). We have taken a look at the thermostat in the fridge, but there's nothing immediately obvious there. The drainage hole in the fridge is clear. In the freezer compartment, all we could find was a removable section at the back with pipes behind it, but there didn't seem any issues there... Any guidance?? Many thanks!!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
drain is blocked. to check, pour water into drain gulley in fridge and it should flow away. to clear, push sometthing flexible down the hole. good idea to pour dilute bleach down hole now and again
Posted on Mar 20, 2007
The thermostat control is usually mounted inside the refrigerator. Its visible control knob is turned to regulate the refrigerator/freezer temperature. The workability of this control can be tested in various ways, depending on the problem. To test the thermostat control:
Step 1: If the compressor runs all the time, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat in place. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new thermostat.
Step 2: If the compressor runs after the wire is removed from its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to fix the problem yourself; call a professional service person.
Step 3: If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and remove the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape, and plug in the appliance. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.
Step 4: If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they're usually friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct near the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about ten minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a new one of the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.
Posted on Oct 07, 2008
Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
you should try and defrost the feezer completely as ice might be blocking the cold coming in. it happed to my fridge freezer and that cured it and it is working perfect now.
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
After facing the same issue (defrosting, cleaning the drain,
drain gets blocked again...start again: defrost, etc..) I decided to try to
give it one last go:
2. Clean & rinse the drain (ensure is fully clean and I can pass liquid through the drain).
3. Get a ~30 cm pure copper wire
In my case I took a 3amp power cable, and took the copper wire from one of the cables.
4. Wrap one end of the copper wire around the copper coil at the back of the fridge (where the coil is warmest)
5. Insert the other end of the copper wire in the drain (just above the drip tray). I inserted ~15cm of wire into the drain.
The purpose of these last steps was to ensure there was no "freezing" happening on the drain. The copper effectively will keep the temperature inside the drain above freezing.
Not sure how permanent this might be.. so far at least I'm getting more months than with the previous symptoms treatments ;)
Best of luck!
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
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