Question about Maytag MER5750 Electric Kitchen Range

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The "hot Surface" light is remaining on continuously. (the surface light is off)

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All surface knobs [switches] feed into a common relay for the surface light. check for a stuck relay.

Posted on Aug 21, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My Cooker is coming up with a E3 What do this means or how to fix it?


Error Code Error Solution
F0 An internal error was detected. Disconnect power. Wait 5 seconds before reconnecting power. If the symbol appears again, call for service.
F2 The surface cooking area is too hot and has turned off. Remove the pans from the surface cooking area. "F2" will disappear when the surface cooking area has cooled. If you turn the surface cooking area back on and "F2" reappears, the cooktop is still too hot. Turn off the surface cooking area and allow it to cool.
F4 The pot or pan is too close to the control panel. Make sure the pot or pan is centered on the surface cooking area and nothing hot is on the touch control panel. Wait 5 minutes for the control panel to clear. If "F4" appears after turning the surface cooking area back on, call for service.
F8 The surface cooking area has been in operation too long. The surface cooking area automatic shutoff was activated. Turn off the surface cooking area.
C1 The power voltage is too low. Turn off the cooktop. Wait 5 seconds, then turn it back on. If this continues, contact a qualified electrician.
C2/C3 The cooking surface area has overheated. The surface cooking area automatic shutoff was activated. Wait 5 minutes for it to cool, and then turn it back on.

Jan 26, 2017 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Light flashes 4 times


ignition failure. insure air pressure switch closes, hot surface igniter is getting 120volts. check continuity on hot surface igniter, make sure all gas shut off valves are open and gas valve is turned on. make sure there is no blockage in the exhaust

Apr 18, 2014 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

I have a Jenn-Air JES9900 range and the right front burner is not working but the hot indicator light remains on. Is this just a switch that needs to be replaced?


make this test and fix it. God bless you

Surface Element Switch

If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.


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Surface Element Board

If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.


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Coil Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.


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Radiant Surface Element

The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.


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Solid Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element


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Element Receptacle and Wire Kit

If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem in the element receptacle. The surface element plugs onto a terminal block type receptacle. Over time the terminals in the receptacle can have a bad connection and overheat. Look at the receptacle contacts with a flashlight. If the terminals look burnt you will need to replace the element receptacle. also make sure the element prongs are clean and not burnt. If the prongs are burnt bad the element will need to be replaced also.


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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection

If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.


Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Nov 04, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Whirpool cook top surface light countiune on even surface are cold


How long does it take for the light to finally go off?or does the light ever go off when a cooktop decrease in tempreture has to reach the tempreture set by the factory for that light to go off. Sounds like a thermal switch which controls the hot surface light is stuck closed If this is a new unit, I'd return it. If not, I would check the switche(s) for the hot surface light -- when the unit is cold, unplug one wire going to the thermal switch and check it for electrical continuity. If you get current from a multi-meter through the switch, replace it -- it's not opening when it cools down.If you have any further questions please message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation Thanks again
Rick

Dec 12, 2010 | Whirlpool RCC3024 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Hot surface light will not go out


Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about why the hot surface indicator light will not go out...

Oven Hot Surface Indicator Light stays on
heatman101

Sep 02, 2010 | Maytag Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Just installed an electric cooktop and the Hot Surface indicator light has been on since installation. How do we fix this?


Sounds like a thermal switch which controls the hot surface light is stuck closed.

If this is a new unit, I'd return it. If not, I would check the switche(s) for the hot surface light -- when the unit is cold, unplug one wire going to the thermal switch and check it for electrical continuity. If you get current from a multi-meter through the switch, replace it -- it's not opening when it cools down.

Charlie

Aug 20, 2009 | Whirlpool Cooktops

1 Answer

GE EVOLUTION Glass top. The hot surface(Glass top)


Individual burners, located directly under the cooktop glass, contain a temp sensor which lights up the hot surface lamp when they sense a hot condition. If the light stays on after all burners are cool, one of the sensors has shorted out. The sensors are an integral part of the burner, so the offending burner must be replaced to solve your constant on hot light.

Jul 01, 2009 | GE Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The hot surface indicator light remains ON all the time.


Your hot surface indicator light might have a short that causes it to stay on all of the time. If you can, try unplugging it for a little while and plugging it back up. If the light is still on, you have a short. You can still use the stove, but the light staying on will not be any help to you.

Oct 22, 2008 | Frigidaire FEF366EC 30" Freestanding...

1 Answer

HOT SURFACE LIGHTS


Hold the button down 5-6 seconds and it will go off...then to cut on...press down again for 5-6 seconds and it will come back on.

Sep 06, 2008 | KitchenAid 30 in. KECC506R Electric...

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