Opening speakers I'm trying to open up the speakers

Does you laptop have Bluetooth? Open start menu, search, type Buletooth, Does it come up? OR, Open Device Manager, Network Adapters, is Bluetooth adapter listed? OR, Open Services, do you see Bluetooth? If you find the Bluetooth Software, open Settings.

If you are competent with electronics, open it up and check the fuse(s). Especially if no lights come on. If you get voltage, then check the jacks you plugged into- they may have dirty interrupt contacts. When you plug the jack in- it opens those contacts that otherwise are closed making the circuit to the cabinet's built in speaker. Contact cleaner should clean them up if that is the issue.

While it is possible there is a power supply issue, you can see that quick with a voltmeter, it is not likely you did much more than blow a fuse.- very possible if you unplugged speakers with the amp operating..

If you think you killed it- you usually still get distorted noise.

1) try a different power cord.if that doesn't work, unplug it for steps 2&3.
2) if you have a multimeter, check the switch to make sure that it's good.3) you should find a fuse on a circuit board if you have the amp opened, check it.If none of these work,send me a good,clear pics of the boards in the amp section. I'll try to ID everything for you. Those are workhorse speakers, well worth fixing.

There could be several reasons why your Fender 25R amps are not producing the tone you expect. Here are a few things to check:

1. Make sure the tone controls are not bypassed: Some amps have a switch that bypasses the tone controls. Check the manual or look for a switch on the amp to make sure the tone controls are engaged.
2. Check the speaker: If the speaker is damaged or wired incorrectly, it can affect the tone. Try connecting a different speaker to the amp to see if the tone improves.
3. Check the EQ circuit: There could be a problem with the EQ circuit that is preventing the tone controls from working properly. This would require opening up the amp and checking the circuit with a multimeter.
4. Try using different guitars: Different guitars have different tone characteristics, and some may sound better with different settings on the amp. Try using different guitars to see if the tone improves.

If none of these solutions work, you may need to take the amps to a professional technician for further diagnosis and repair.

First Check that your speakers are powered on. On your desktop go onto your bottom task bar to the right far end and open the arrow which shows you a speaker sign. click on the speaker sign it will open up and show you the audio device that is in your computer. Check that all volumes and speakers are on, check that the speakers and controls are not muted. If everything is okay here then go to the next step.

Then go to your computer desktop and check on 'My Computer' right click on your mouse go to 'properties' the 'systems properties' dialog box opens up then you go to 'hardware' panel and click on it then press on 'Device manager' button. You will see a whole list of the devices in your computer. go to Sound, video and game controllers click on the + sign to open it if it's not already open. Check on the speaker signs you should some drivers and devices something like Realtek High Def audio. if there is a question mark on any of the devices then it means that the device drivers are not loaded. Look for the drivers and load them.

The Logitech is a little tricky. You need to carefully pry off the white bezel around the speakers and then pry away the grills. Under the grill you will find four screws holding the two speakers, and four screws set deep in holes.

Undo these eight screws and the front will come off.

Another person posting on here I suggested opening his unit and he had blown speakers. I think these that are DOA after previous use may be blown during the previous shutdown of the amp driving them and those with built in amps are blown when mixer is powered down putting out a large pulse. Hopefull the amp is blown rather than the speakers... cheaper to repair. Open and check for a fuse, but dont' replace it until you find out the cause of it blowing as additional damage can occur.

Mike,

In its most basic form, a sound system consists of a signal, amplifier and speaker. If there is a problem with any of the three - unexpected results can occur.

Swap the speaker with a know good speaker. If it still doesn't work, it is not the speaker. Change the signal. This is usually done by selecting a different line level input, ir connecting a different device to the input(s). Your device may not have the ability to do this. If you are able to choose a different input, and the problem still exists, then it is probably not the input, either. That leaves an amplifier problem. The amp could have failed naturally, or due to an open or shorted speaker connection, connecting the wrong impedance value speakers, playing at a very loud level, etc. Some amps have a fuse or circuit breaker that opens in many of these situations - your may or may not have this feature. If it does, there's a chance it didn't open before the damage was done though. Needless to say, if you replace the fuse or it doesn't have one and the problem still exists, it will probably need to be sent out for professional repair.

I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply - thanks!

Keeping in mind that the 901's and multichannel recievers won't work unless you use an outboard amp for them, that should open up the choices pretty wide. But your MP3-compatible AVR MUST have front channel pre-outs. Any solid 100 watt x 2channel amp will drive them.

short answer yes... Long answer... Amp Failure: There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause. If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure. Transistor Failure/Checking Transistors: In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals. Note: I used the terms short and open on the previous paragraph. A short (short circuit) is a path through which current flows that should not be there. An open (open circuit) is a break in the circuit. It is most likely the power supply that has taken a ****.