Icemaker shutoff wire is unattached.

This arm is called a "bale". There should be a small, round opening on the backside of the front of the ice maker. Use a mirror to look behind the square control box of the icemaker and you should see the opening. It is impossible to see it from the front when the icemaker is installed in the unit.

hello sir

if ur ice maker

Makes no ice

• Check the shutoff arm
• Check the supply valve
• Inspect the water supply line
• Test the shutoff switch
• Check the freezer temperature
• Inspect the ejector gear
• Test the ejector motor
• Test the ice mold heater
• Test the holding switch
• Test the water inlet switch
• Test the thermostat
• Test the water inlet valve

There is trick to putting the ice bale arm back on unless the water cup where the water comes into freezer has the round opening broken that holds the bale arm Click Here=> 628356 Water Fill Cup




Also the video clip from Parts Select will show you the way to do this way of reinstalling the bale arm. If movie does load below then click HERE Telling you how in words would not be as simple as the instructions given in the movie. Thumps up to Parts Select on that tutorial! I will be here if you have questions and please rate if helpful Thank You Sea Breeze

In order to keep your refrigerator's ice maker working properly, there are some components that will require routine maintenance and inspection. Some of the most common problems that can occur with your ice maker are the ice maker not making any ice, making too much ice and not shutting off, the ice tasting bad, ice cubes too small or discolored and ice cubes not ejecting from the ice maker. Checking your ice maker for potential problems on a regular basis will keep it operating efficiently.

1.Inspect the water supply line for any signs of cracking or crimps in the line. A pinched water supply line can keep the water from getting to the ice maker, resulting in no ice or smaller than desired ice cubes. Check to verify that the water supply valve is open enough to provide an adequate supply of water to the ice maker.

2. Flush out the water supply lines if you are noticing a bad taste in the ice cubes. This can be done by disconnecting the lines and running hot water through them. Turn on the hot water at the kitchen sink and place one end of the water supply line near the tap, holding it in place to allow hot water to run through it. Place the other end of the supply line in the sink to allow the water to drain through.

3 Reattach the water supply lines to the water supply and refrigerator. Repeat step 2 for the water inlet hose which runs from the inlet valve to the ice maker. If the water supply lines are old or discolored, consider replacing them with new water supply lines.

4 Check the temperature in your freezer to verify that it is getting cold enough. The freezer's temperature should be at 5 degrees and can be set with a control dial, normally located in the refrigerator compartment of your appliance. To test the freezer's temperature, place a cup of cooking oil in the freezer with a cooking thermometer sitting in the cooking oil. Allow the oil to sit in the freezer for 2 hours and then check the temperature.

5 Check the ice maker's shutoff arm to verify that it is operating properly. To work normally, the shutoff arm should be in the lowered position. Inspect the arm for anything blocking it or preventing the arm from moving freely. Lift the arm up to see if the unit shuts off in the up position.

6 Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet and remove the faceplate of the ice maker's shutoff switch with a screwdriver, located on the ice maker. Remove the entire ice maker unit from the freezer by undoing the screws that are holding it in place. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer and take it out of the freezer to work on.

7 Remove the mounting plate on the top of the ice maker by unscrewing the screws and lifting it off the unit. Locate the shutoff switch, which has three electrical wires attached to it. The shutoff switch is located directly under the shutoff arm of the ice maker. Pull the electrical wires off of the shutoff switch with needle-nose pliers and label them so you know how to put them back correctly.

8 Inspect the electrical terminals for any rust or corrosion. Use an electrical testing meter to verify that the shutoff switch is working properly. You should get a reading of 0 or infinity on the meter. If the shutoff switch is not giving a reading, replace it with a new switch and reattach the electrical wires to the switch.

9 Place the mounting plate back over the ice maker and attach it with screws, then reattach the entire ice maker unit to the freezer. Plug the ice maker wiring back into the freezer and put the face plate back over the front of the ice maker.

10 Plug the refrigerator back into the electrical outlet and allow the refrigerator to run for a couple hours. Inspect the ice maker to verify that it is working properly.

Hope this tips would help you.
Good day! : )

Lower the wire shutoff arm on the side of the icemaker.

There is a spring inside the icemaker head. It sounds like it has broken.

Reminder. When the bin is full and the arm comes down, if the ice has fallin in a way that it stops the arm real high. You may have to pull it down to start it again. Although this should not happen very often.
Please rate solution

Hi...

To fix your problem you need to check the shutoff arm.

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position.

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support. If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.

Test the shutoff switch.

There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shutoff arm.

The shutoff switch (labeled "A") is located near the shutoff arm (Labeled "B"). Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by three wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced

Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch a probe to the side terminal. Touch the other probe to one of the two other terminals. The reading should be either infinity or zero. With the probes still in place, depress the switch. You should now get the opposite reading.

Keep the first probe on the side terminal and move the other probe to the second terminal. The test results should be the opposite of the first terminal. If you had a reading of zero on the first terminal, when the switch was depressed, you should get a reading of infinity on this terminal.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.


Hope it is helpful for you

Thanks for using fixya

Ragards

ICmanServer

check the Shutoff Arm:

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown below

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.

check the Shutoff Switch:

Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.

on the back wall just above or under the fill tube youl find the wire harness , simply unplug the ice maker, while your at it 3 1/4 screws mount the ice maker to the side wall, youll have more room in freezer by removing it

The quick answer is to turn the water off to the refrigerator so it quits making until you get it fixed.
If your fridge has the control boards in each side of the freezer cabinet that controls the icemaker, then you have a failed board.
If you have a standard icemaker with the metal shutoff arm then you have a failed motor module in the icemaker.
You can remove the icemaker and unplug the wiring connector from it so you can leave the water on to the dispenser.
Post back if you need instructions on reparing it.