Buttons wont work

SOURCE: Maxent 50" plasma problem

We seem to have had the same problem. Green light keeps blinking but will not turn set on or off. I unplugged the set for a few minutes, plugged back in and works fine but will happen from time to time for no reason.

SOURCE: maxent plasma tv is showing only vertical lines.

Common problem on these sets are many many bad caps on the digital board. Repair kits are available for these containing the necessary parts if you're savvy with a soldering iron. Otherwise, replacement of the digital board is necessary and you'll have to contact either Maxent or a local repair shop. Tracking down which caps are bad can be difficult even with the right equipment as some tend to check good while in circuit when they are actually bad.

SOURCE: Vertical black lines appear intermitently

Does the line appear on just one input(cable,hdmi,video1,video2,ect) or on all of them? The reason why I ask is it may be just an issue with one input setting on the television and you may be able to use a different input for a temporary fix of the problem. Plasma telivisions run very hot and it may be overheating. Try using a small mountable fan above the TV pointed into the back heat vents and see if keeping it cooler keeps the issue from happening. These TVs are repairable but usually cost more to repair than what it is worth due to plasma TVs are very in-expensive now.

SOURCE: 50" Maxent Plasma

you need to have a licenced repair tech come look at it sounds like the inverter is going out its kinda likea ballast for florecent lights

SOURCE: I have a Maxent 42 inch plasma.When you turn it

What is the Product Name or Model number of your Maxent 42" Plasma TV? If it is a MX-42X3, Model # P420542HM8, I think I can help you. I have encountered this exact same problem with 2 Maxent MX-42X3 Plasma TV's. I found that C766, a 220uF, 16V surface-mount electrolytic capacitor on the main board is bad. This capacitor is located just to the left of the green multi-fin processor heat sink. This capacitor will test good using capacitor meter or an ESR meter, but if you spray it with Freeze-It with the power on, you will find out that this is the problem! To get it out, I found I had to remove the little 10uF 16V surface-mount capacitor just to the left of it. I then replaced these 2 capacitors with regular (radial), high-temperature, low-ESR capacitors. I cut the leads short, and bent the ends out just a little bit so you can solder them back onto the surface-mount pads. You can get these parts from Digi-Key Corp. I used Digi-Key part # P12383-ND ($0.32) for the 220uF capacitor, and P11212-ND ($0.30) for the 10uF capacitor. Both of these capacitors are rated for 25V and high temperature, so they won't go bad again. You can purchase surface mount capacitors there too, but I find them very difficult to solder back into those locations due to the tight placement of other capacitors in that area. If you're not an expert in soldering, I suggest you take the main board to a qualified electronic technician, and let him do it. But you better put the board in an anti-static bag before you take it anywhere! Hope this helps!