Throttle cable I am having great trouble getting that bent double ended (2 inch) piece of metal back on between governor and throttle. Help!

To properly connect the governor spring on the throttle assembly of a Rally 5 horsepower motor, follow these general guidelines. Begin by locating the governor arm, a metal lever connected to the throttle assembly near the carburetor or intake manifold. Next, identify the governor spring, a coiled spring with a hook or loop on one end. Attach this end to the designated hook or anchor point on the governor arm. Then, find the appropriate anchor point on the engine block or throttle assembly and connect the other end of the spring, ensuring a secure attachment that provides tension when adjusting the throttle. If needed, adjust the tension by repositioning the attachment points. Remember that specific instructions may vary based on the Rally motor model, so consult the motor's manual or contact the manufacturer for accurate guidance tailored to your engine.

The ends of both springs hook at the loop of the metal linkage connecting the governor vane and throttle shaft. The other end of the small spring hooks onto a small upright plate approximately 1 inch towards to the front of hooked end of the spring. The longer spring hooks onto a large hole in the throttle plate.
A problem that does occur is the plate becomes bent when the mower us pushed under shrubs. This drops the speed of the mower to a low idle. If this is the case then with a pair of pliers, gently twist that metal plate to obtain a RPM setting of 3,100. Don't be tempted to increase the revs to much or the conrod will break and punch a hole through the engine block.

The throttle cable does not connect to the carburator. The round end of the cable pushes on the throttle plate arm. The cable is spring loaded and returns when you let off the throttle. The throttle plate arm on the carb is connected to the governor- the plastic vane that fits in the slot in the engine top cowl and sticks up into the cowl- by a spring. The air that is moved by the fan on top of the engine pushes on the governor and brings the engine speed down when you let off the throttle on the handle.

After researching the engine application, I see that this 675 is NOT an OHV engine. It appears it is the L (flathead) engine with the standard features. The 775-875 Platinum series mowers have OHV engine applications. That being said, many mowers have the carburetors with the governed throttles set to run at the the OEM mandated maximum speed. Some (like the Briggs Quantum series engines) have the throttle plate still attatched. You would need to bend it back up and install an aftermarket throttle cable assembley (like Murray makes). You would connect the carburetor end of the throttle cable to the hole in the plate assembly that has the governor spring attatched. Some even remove the governor entirely (internal governor has to stay in) and connect a throttle cable on the plate controlling the butterfly in the carb. Your unit may have this feature with the plate having a few different holes in it in which you could install the end of an add on throttle cable.

Had the same problem with the same engine. Governor control in the base of the engine fell apart. Requires pulling the engine which is pretty easy, then removing the bolts along the bottom of the crankcase. YOu'll see the governor and or pieces in the bottom. Use a magnet to get all metal pieces from the oil, then replace the governor. Get the model and type off the valve cover from the engine when replacing governor. 3 hour job and you're done..////While it's out check the valve lash by removing rocker covers. Set them at .006 or a tight 007. That way you'll know it didn't through a pushrod when it was over reving..good luck

If your transmission doesn’t shift out of first gear or shifts hard at too high a R.P.M. this doesn’t always mean you have a problem. This could be a stuck throttle valve caused by a small piece of trash. This sometimes happens after a rebuild. Sometimes the throttle valve can be unstuck without removing the valve body. Get up to about 20 to 30 M.P.H. and hit the gas pedal on and off hard with your foot. This might do the job. If that doesn’t work remove the throttle valve cable end from the throttle, with the motor at idle in park, pull the cable in and out very fast, this might work, if not the valve body must be removed by a transmission shop to be unstuck.

Also check the governor for a stuck valve, weights or governor drive gear damage.

see http://forum.doityourself.com/outdoor-power-equipment-small-engines/384248-spring-locations

Fiber optic is the circtuit ribbon cable that attaches jack to main circuit board. Your best chances are to find one on ebay. Or you can always try amazon.com, newegg.com or etech.com

I've never been a big fan of the 180 OH family of engines in these things, but here goes.
1 - If the engine will stay running while it surges, close the choke a little at a time and see if it settles down. If it does, there is something amiss in the carb. The carbs on these engines are very picky about tiny bits of dirt. The good news is that they are fairly simple to take apart and clean, the bad news is that lots of the parts are plastic and break easily. At least they aren't too expensive.

2 - I've seen 2 ways to adjust the governed speed on these engines; a spring that connects to the governor arm at one end and a tab bent up from the sheet metal that mounts on top of the engine at the other - bend the tab so the spring is tighter to speed the engine up, and (b) a jam nut and screw mechanism that presses against a lever that pulls on a spring that connects to the governor arm - screw the screw in tighter to raise the engine speed.
Note that in either case the mechanism adjusts the tension in a spring that pulls against the governor arm, this is helpful in finding out where to make the adjustment.
Here in the US we want our 2 pole generators like this to run at 3750 rpm at no load so that we get very close to 3600 rpm at load. If you're using a DMM to measure the output of the generator in Hz, you want 61.5 at no load.

If nothing you can do with the choke makes the surge go away, you might have a misadjusted governor. The Tecumseh service manual has a great procedure for making this adjustment, essentially what you do is loosen the retaining nut on the governor arm, twist the governor shaft to its minimum speed position, then hold the throttle assembly at the idle stop and tighten the governor arm jam nut. Always keep a finger near the kill switch when running the engine the first time after this procedure, it's easy to mess up and have a runaway engine.

Please rank me if this was helpful,
Carl

e most common problem is the spring on the fuel door breaks off. Have someone pull on the release cable handle, insert a credit card or something like that under the edge of the gas door, see if it will open that way. If it opens, look at the hinged end, you will probably see a piece of plastic, which holds a piece of bent springy metal. If the bent piece of metal is missing, you need to buy another at a Toyota dealer parts dept. If the bent piece of metal IS there, bend it further open to increase the tension. Try this, & if neither helps, get back to me for further info.