I have a unit described above, that has no power at all. The fuse is OK. There are a few dark spots on the board, but no completely burnt or obvious resistors or circuits. I have not ohmed the board or checked everything out. Any obvious problems that I should check out.
Had the same exact issue. RCA DRC257N was acting funny, frequently freezing up at HELLO screen, sometimes buttons would stop working during playback, requiring frequent unplugging to get back to working. Opened the case, pulled out the power board and noticed that capacitor C411 (1000uF 16V) was bulging out at top and bottom. Replaced with a $1.59 1000uF 35V capacitor from Radio Shack and all is back to good working order. Thanks.
Before reading anything about the RCA DRC257N HDMI DVD player online, I decided to open the DVD player and inspect the power supply board after the unit failed. I found that the 16v 1000uF capacitor can had a bulging top, and then with closer inspection I saw that the bottom was pushed out. I was worried that the capacitor being damaged may have also effected more components on the board. I decided to attempt a repair, without the use of a multimeter. I looked around through my computer parts junkyard hoping that some board may have a 16v 1000uF capacitor. I opened up a computer power supply, and out of the dozen or so capacitors one of them was a match. I de-soldered the bad cap, and soldered in the new. The DVD player works perfectly now.
The terse, unexplained, and therefore useless, answer of "1000uF 16v cap." apparently is in reference to C411 on the power supply board, which is a large Electrolytic capacitor that is the final filter stage on the DC power going out the the main system board. If this capacitor is not functioning properly, there could be ripple in what should be a pure DC voltage feeding the logic and video circuits of the system. ANY fluctuations in this DC voltage can cause erratic behaviour throughout the system. Symptoms such as weird displays, functions not working properly, intereference in the video, and total failure can be attributed to "dirty" DC voltages to the main board. This is true regarding ALL of the big "black can" capacitors on the power supply board. A user's ability to replace ANY circuit components would be limited to their competency with a solidering iorn, removal, repair and replacement of circuit boards, and would be done STRICTLY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
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Could be a faulty power supply in the actual unit. Check inside it for a fuse on the circuit board while its unplugged could be blown. Usually power into unit is higher AC voltage (DEATH) and a transformer lowers the voltage so if you take it to a technician they should be able to measure the lower dc voltages to see if the power supply is working ok and if any fuses are blown.
No display? No function? No error codes? Short answer: the power supply has a fault. My guess is IC1 is short-circuit (this regulator has a habit of failing in some model DVD recorders) probably due to crook electrolytic capacitors and/or shorted/leaky zener diodes. This may not be economical to repair, since this is a 2004 model; more than 5 years old. That doesn't mean it is NOT fixable, but it might be expensive in terms of parts and labour.
The best course of action is to check IC1 (usually marked as STRxxxxx and may be a 5-pin device) and replace all the electrolytic capacitors (uprate their values and working voltages where necessary), and check the diodes and fusible resistors (these might be open circuit). This is the simplest and cheapest option. Have a look first. Electrolytic capacitors are easy to spot - if they bulge or their tops appear domed instead of flat, their heatshrink covers have peeled or blistered, and/or they have leaked stuff around their pin base on the board (this will look like dark glue but it is electrolyte). Check the copper side of the power board for corrosion from any leaking caps. If any corrosion is present on that side, chances are it may have damaged surface mounted components, making it U/S.
If you are in any doubt about the above, take the unit to an authorised service centre, get a quote on the likely repair costs, what parts are involved, etc., then you can decide for yourself after that whether or not you wish to pursue the repair to restore your combo unit to full operation.
As I warned above, it might be expensive and may not be economical to repair; but it is up to you. These were good units when new, and their DVD drives caused less trouble than the recent DMR-EZ series. If all else fails, you could probably obtain a good used/refurbished PSU board for this model from an online parts store or similar places.
hello. sound's like a power supply problum. it could be as easy a putting a new fuse in . the first thing is to unplug it from the wall. the open the unit . with a screw driver. and take off the top. of the unit. !!! and look for a fuse.!! to see if it is blowen?.!!! if so .!! replace with the same size of fuse. !!! as what was in it.!!! you find the size on the fuse that you take out.!! of the unit. !!! "dont" use any fuse .!!! only the same size that the fuse say on. !!! replace it .!! put it back together and hook it back up and try it.!!! if not you will have to look for burnt part's on it's mother board. and go from there.!! well 'GOOD LUCK"
If unit is still under warranty return it. If unit is still sold at the orginal place of purchase buy another and return the first one stating it wont work and get a refund
1) power source is good? (receptical on the wall or power unit. Locate DVD rec. to another receptical and check Rec. again)
2) power cord going to unit is good, no cuts or melted spots
3) power setting on unit is correct (small red slide type buttong for different country voltage settings)
4) internal fuse, change it even if it doesn't look bad.
5) Weigh the cost of a new one to the repair cost of the old one. If you buy a new one get a good brand RCA is still one of best and longest lasting.
I had this problem after only a few months of use! There were some bad capacitors on the power supply board. Replacing them fixed the player. They used cheap electrolytic capacitors on this unit; check them all while you have it open.