Question about Kenmore 82822 Electric Dryer
Bought this dryer as a set from what seemed to be a really nice couple who were upgrading.Hauled it all home and the washer worked great, but when I plugged the dryer in--nothing. No lights, no beeps, no display, no light when you open the door. I was suspicious of my outlet, of course at first, (this house is a remodel and I have never tested the plug) but the Ohm meter reads 240. I pulled the front of the unit off and the thermal fuse on the back of the blower assembly showed current running through. I was heading for the top of the unit next, to see if there might be any other fuses, and the I struck GOLD! Inside the dryer in a little plastic bag was the service guide! I followed the step by step instructions to test the dyer cord-- hot and ground against the main computer board (P1-5 and P1-2) and both flowed (beep!) through the ohm meter. With this diagnostic, the guide says "replace the machine electrical control." $124 bucks. Ugh. So here are my questions: 1) is there anything else I can test to make sure it is this board that needs replaced? 2) Anything else that might be killing the whole electric workings of this dryer? 3) How can I test the control logic board to see if it needs replacing too? Thanks ever so much for your help! -Jessie-fix-it
Unfortunately, the Main Control Board generally is the culprit that kills the entire dryer on these models. The tech sheet you discovered should also give you the test points to check the control panel too. However, if the Main Control Board is bad, it will do you no good to try to trace voltage if it's not there. In addition, the connector pins are so small it makes it rather difficult to even try to get good resistance readings. Now...to rule out other possibilities: THERMAL FUSE - Would kill all dryer functions, but I believe the control panel would still work and the interior drum light would come on. THERMAL CUT-OUT - Would only kill the HEATING portion of the dryer. The drum would still rotate, but the unit would not heat. DOOR SWITCH - Control panel would still function, but dryer would not start and drum would not rotate. BELT SWITCH - This will shut down a dryer if yours is equipped with one. I don't believe this model has such a switch, but even if it did, the dryer would not start, but the control panel would still light up. So...other than double checking all your wiring to make sure you don't have anything broken or loose, you have probably narrowed it down to the most likely cause. You still might have a defective interface panel, but they don't fail as often and are more expensive. Generally, the whole panel has to be replaced. I hope this guides you in the right direction. If you need further assistance, post comments.
Posted on Aug 18, 2007
PS: The HE3 does have a belt switch right near the motor..
Try the hir-dryer trick on the main buttons.. or of you can solder replace all of the buttons on the main control panel. they love to stick ON and cause the entire thing to appear dead (see my other post on the dryer fix) other items were also listed.. check the little white fuse just behind the lint-vent (under lower cover, behind the galvanized vent that covers the fan (left sensor)) that one and the door switch (blue/white) kill the motor completely.. ohms-beep them for good connections..
Posted on May 19, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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