Diagram water inlet valve

replace plastic tubing and install valve. I put one under sink and one at the refrigerator. For plastic line I use push to fit connectors. They
are available at HD, Lowe's amazon plumbing supply. You should use a flexible tube cutter also available at the store. You will get a clean square cut.

Hello Tasker;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

You did not provide a model number which is located on a label on the liner side wall of your refrigerator section, so I do not know what ice maker you have.

Most ice makers do not have a water fill adjustment. If you have a square box cover on the front, then you may have adjustment. On the right hand side there may be a tiny plastic stem with a slot for knife or tiny flat head screw driver. Turn only 1/2 clockwise. Or with difficulty pop off the front cover and you will see an adjustment spring for water fill.

But, I do not think this is your problem.
1.) Your water fill tube my be iced up inside. Using a small screw driver break the ice up in the fill tube.
2.) If this does not solve your problem, then you probable have a bad ice maker solenoid, where either the coil is weak or the spool sticks and does not open all of the way for the fill cycle.
This is easily replaced. It is probably a duel valve assembly where you have to replace the whole assembly.

a.) Locate your model number.
b.) Go into the below website, put in your model number, you will get parts diagrams prices and part numbers.
c.) Go into the internet and search the part number for the valve. You may be able to find a used valve for conservable saving.
d.) Up plug the unit. Turn off the water supply valve.
e.) Remove the back bottom cover.
f.) Disconnect the valve assembly retaining screws that hold the valve assembly to the unit.
g.) Remove the electrical connectors on the valve assembly.
DO NOT GET THEM WET.
h.) Remove the main water supply line to the valve assembly. There will be water in this line.
i.) Remove the plastic tubing to each valve. Push down while holding the small retaining locking ring. When reassembling, push the plastic tubing down, not hold the retaining ring. You should hear a click meaning it is locked in.
Water Filters Lawn Garden Appliance Parts

Head off, valve spring compressors make it ewasy, tap a socket on the top of the retainer, this makes it easyer, remove the valve retainer, keep collets safe, pull old valve out, new one needs lapping in takes about 5 mins only, and will need reshimming if shimmed.

There are between two and four screws, probably 1/4' or 5/16' hex, on the underside of the cooler. Remove them. Make sure the water is shut. There should be a valve similar to those found under your bathroom or kitchen sink coming out of the wall where your cooler is mounted. Locate the plastic tubing that supplies water to the bubbler, (water spout), and press in the collet. The collet is a collar that slides back and releases the tubing. While pressing the collet, pull on the tubing. It should slide right out. Now you must remove the mounting nut, and viola! You can remove the bubbler.

Hello,
I know that seems like the incorrect part but it replaces the water valve that had 2 outlet hoses connected to it. To replace that;
Turn off house water supply to old valve and disconnect tubing
remove old valve and unplug the 2 wire connections and the 2 outlet hoses
The two outlet hoses were what was considered a Y hose..cut off semi clear plastic tubing a inch back where the 2 semi clear plastic tubes merge and become only 1
pull one of the plastic nuts off of the Y tube
slip it onto the end of the newly cut single tube
slip single tube into outlet threaded outlet of new valve and tighten that plastic nut
connect the 2 wire plugs onto new valve
remount to back of refrig
attatch house water supply to metal fitting that has/had protective rubber cap over it (oh of course remove procetive rubber cap and discard it)
turn water supply back on
it may up to 4 hrs for water to flow to icemaker so best to test by dispensing water through freezer door

Good luck,any questions or problems please reply and i'll help you,
Gene

Hi Scott and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

The plastic line that connects to the ice maker rubber FILL tube is what came off. Check inside the freezer and squeeze the end of the rubber tube at the back of the ice maker. I would bet it is frozen with ice. (Hand held hiar dryer for quite a while to defrost the tube FYI and do NOT melt the plactic of the ice maker water funnel.) What causes the tube to freeze is the inlet water valve starts bypassing water when it is supposed to shut off. The result of this bypassed water is a frozen rubber tube and the plactic tube on the back of the refirgerator blows off or leaks. This inlet water valve is NOT repairable.

The Fix... Replace the inlet water valve and make sure the rubber ice maker fill tube is defrosted BEFORE re-inserting the plastic tube back into the rubber fill tube. It just pushes in and the adhesive pads for holding the plastic line in place are not critical even if they are lost. The rubber fill tube fitting will retain the plastic hose just fine as long as the ice maker end of the tube is not frozen from a leaking inlet water valve.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

There are precisely 2 causes of such problems. Either the defrost thermostat is bad and need to be replaced or the water inlet valve is blocked or faulty. Either ways you will have to run a test on them both and replace the faulty component. Before you begin to test your icemaker's water inlet valve or the defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
To test the water inlet valve,

1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.
6. If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.

To replace the water inlet valve:

1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
5. Discard the used water inlet valve and proceed to connect the new one. Attach the new valve in the opposite order of what the old one was removed. Replace the rear lower access panel and restore power to your refrigerator. Push your refrigerator back in its spot.

To test the defrost thermostat,

1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.

To replace the defrost thermostat;

1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
5. To install your new defrost thermostat, reverse the removal process. Reconnect the wires, replace the panel, and restore power to your refrigerator. For those models where the defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator coil, make sure you install the new thermostat in the same location and position of the old one.

Hope this was helpful. Thanks for using fixya

If Your fridge wont make ice, there are just 2 components responsible for that. The water inlet valve and the defrost thermostat. You need to run a test on both to be able to tell which is the faulty component. To test the water inlet valve, Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete any of these test.Before you begin any test on your icemaker's water inlet valve and defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.

If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. To replace the component, please follow the steps below:

1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
5. Discard the used water inlet valve and proceed to connect the new one. Attach the new valve in the opposite order of what the old one was removed. Replace the rear lower access panel and restore power to your refrigerator. Push your refrigerator back in its spot.

To test the defrost thermostat, please follow the steps below:

1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.

To replace the defrost thermostat, please follow the steps below:

2. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
3. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
4. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
5. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
6. To install your new defrost thermostat, reverse the removal process. Reconnect the wires, replace the panel, and restore power to your refrigerator. For those models where the defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator coil, make sure you install the new thermostat in the same location and position of the old one.
7. 
   
8. Hope this information helped.

The first thing to check is the water inlet valve. Unplug the machine, turn off the water, and remove the supply hoses. Check the small metal screens inside the opening on the water inlet valve and make sure they are clear of rust or debris. Check the solenoids using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Test for continuity. A lack of continuity will mean a bad solenoid and the valve will need replaced.
If the inlet valve checks out alright, then the next place to look would be a malfunctioning water level/pressure switch. It is a diaphragm like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. Make sure there are no obstructions in or damage to the plastic tube. The switch can be tested for continuity in the same manner as the water inlet valve solenoids. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

mike most water valves not are easy to repl the dispencer li and ice maker line are just push in all the way and they lock in place and to remove the all you do is push the ring around and they get relase. now the main line that supplies water that one you have to screw right you need new connectors.