I've got an VK200, which has been dropped to 1 meter water depth.
I managed to disasseble it, got all the water out, and managed to get it working, but now it doesn't play MP3's from the T-Flash/Mini SD Card!
Before it did, but now, zilch!
It must be a software malfunction, since it sees it play, but no sound comes out!
And the phone parts are working perfectly, even after the loudspeaker cable got broken on disassemble!!!!
Can anyone help with software link or something?
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whenever you read out any part with a meter you have to pull at least one of the wires off of the part you're checking,unplug the machine,slide it out,remove the back panel so you can see the broil wires and the ends of the element,pull off the wires and check it with a meter for continuity,set the meter on 20k ohms,touch the leads together and it should read anything but 1,then touch the leads to the ends of the element, if it stays on 1 the element is bad if you get any other reading other than 1 the element is good,also while you're back there but be careful,plug the machine back in with the element wired, set the meter to volts and check to see if you get 120 volts to the broil element if the element checks good,if you check the bake element you should have 240 volts,if the element is good you could have a broken wire or a bad computer board or also called the clock assy.i've seen the elements burn and break and short out the clock assy. and it doesn't mean the clock doesn't work,it's the way they're built the computer board is built in with the clock that's all so if the computer board gets damaged the clock still can work so if you check it with a meter
Thank you for contacting FixYa. Water Resistant is a common mark stamped on the back of wrist watches to indicate how well a watch is sealed against ingress of water. It is usually accompanied by an indication of the static test pressure that a sample of newly manufactured watches was exposed to in a leakage test. The test pressure can be indicated either directly in bars, or (more commonly) as an equivalent water depth in meters (in the United States sometimes also in feet).
An indication of the test pressure in terms of water depth does not mean a water resistant watch was designed for repeated long term use in such water depths. For example, a water resistant watch marked at 30 meters depth cannot be expected to withstand activity for longer time periods in a swimming pool, let alone continue to function at 30 meters under water. This is because the test is conducted only once using static pressure on some of the newly manufactured watches. The test for qualifying a diving watch for repeated usage in a given depth includes safety margins to take factors in account like aging of the seals, rapidly changing water pressure and temperature, as well as dynamic mechanical stresses encountered by a watch. Also every diving watch has to be fully tested for water resistance.
Hope this helps.
Scuba gauges give a diver three very important pieces of information:
3. Air Consumption
This information enables a diver to stay within safe time and depth limits and avoid running out of air. There are many different devices on the market to help with this, from simple gauges to complex digital consoles.
If a diver is not using a dive computer to monitor their nitrogen, they dive according to approved dive tables. To use dive tables properly, a diver needs to track their downtime. This can be done with a good dive watch. Two things make a good dive watch: water resistance and a rotating bezel.
1. Water Resistance. Good dive watches are rated to a depth in meters or feet (e.g. 200 feet) or a pressure rating in atmospheres (e.g. 4atm). Even though most divers probably won’t dive below 130 feet (the recreational dive limit), a good dive watch should be rated to 200 feet. Note: There is a difference between “water resistance” and “waterproof”. A “waterproof” watch is what you would wear in the shower, but would probably start leaking at 15-20 feet.
2. Rotating Bezel. A bezel is an adjustable ring on the face of the dive watch with a pointer indicator. At the beginning of a dive, the pointer on the bezel is aligned with the minute hand where it stays though out the dive. At the end of the dive, you compare the difference between the bezel and the minute hand to find out the length of the dive. The bezel should only move “counterclockwise”. It is possible to accidently move the bezel during a dive. Because of this, watchmakers make sure any accidental movement will turn the time in a conservative direction, making the dive longer rather than shorter.
Another important part of scuba gauges is a depth gauge. A depth gauge enables a diver to keep track of their depth even if they cannot see the water’s surface. Gauges can be either an analog (needle-and-dial) device or a digital device. Both work in the same way. They measure the surrounding water pressure and convert this into an accurate reading of your depth. Another feature of a good depth gauge is a maximum depth indicator. This tells a diver their maximum during a dive and must be reset after each dive.
Another equally important part of scuba gauges is a submersible pressure gauge (SPG). This is connected to the first stage with a high-pressure hose and measures the pressure of the air in the tank. The SPG is much like the gas gauge on a car. At the beginning of a dive, a diver starts with a full tank. This should be about 3000 psi or 200 bars. As the diver breathes during the dive, the gauge will move slowly downwards. This allows the diver to have enough air left in the tank to:
1. Make a slow, safe ascent
2. Make any necessary decompression stops
3. Inflate their BCD once at the surface
4. Breath from the regulator if the surface conditions are rough
A submersible pressure gauge also allows a diver to stop diving with air still in the tank. This keeps contaminants from entering the tank due to no air pressure.
Wrist Depth Gauge
Scuba gauges come in two basic styles. Stand alone gauges or gauge consoles. Stand alone gauges such as a wrist mounted depth gauge or a submersible pressure gauge attached to the first stage of a regulator are great backups when using digital gauges. Gauge consoles allow divers to have all their gauges in one place.
Although less easy to read, analog gauges sometimes give slightly more accurate readings than digital gauges, particularly at shallow depth.
Submersible Pressure Gauge
Choosing Scuba Gauges
When choosing scuba gauges, remember to look for:
1. Easy-to-read numbers
2. Luminescent dial or back lighting options
3. Rotating/swivel mounting
4. Easy disassembly for cleaning or replacing parts
5. Good warranty