Pulley wheel slips off and the agitation stops.

The tension pulley is nothing but an idler wheel that puts tension on the belt to prevent it from slipping. The bearings in the wheel dry out or the wheel cracks. If you look you will see it. The serpentine belt wraps around it. It is not a pulley that is attached to any component. You will have to use a tension er bar or ratchet with a long handle to push down on it you will see that the bracket it is attached to will pivot when you put on the pressure. A bolt goes through the center of the pulley. You will have to remove the bolt to get the pulley off. Some are reverse threaded so be careful. Replace it with the right size pulley. If the pulley is plastic, see if you can get a metal one of comparable size. (NAPA parts are ood replacements) Reverse the removal directions and reinstall belt. The routing diagram is usually in your manual or on a sticker in the engine compartment by the radiator

The drive belt may be worn and slipping on the pulley. (assuming it is a belt driven model). This would cause the mower to lose a great deal of power to the wheels. By adjusting the cable only, you are effectively adding a little more friction to the belt/pulley interface which in turn will provide a bit more power but the belt may still be slipping on the pulley(s) which is where you could still be losing the majority of your mowers self propulsion. Some Honda models may also employ a belt tensioner that simply adds tension to the belt even if the belt becomes stretched out & worn but the pulley's can become glazed (slippery). If it is a direct "pulley to pulley" drive with a single drive belt (no tensioner) the worn belt can also glaze the pulleys and cause further slipping. You can reface your pulley(s) contact surfaces with a very light grade wet sand paper (1000 grit), a coarse grade steel wool or a scotchbrite abrasive pad, thereby giving the belt more "purchase" on the pulley(s) contact surfaces. If you do perform a refacing of the pulley(s), it is strongly advised that you replace the drive belt as well. Your mower will then function as it did when it was new. Hope this helps.

hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle
The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

Bend the ears on the flywheel so that they are 90degrees. They are not lining up right.

Bearings are damaged or drum spider damaged .

Possible causes:
- Tires: If the tire(s) on either of the pulleys are worn, torn or have chuncks out of them, the blade can slip off.
- Pulley(s) out of line: If either or both pulleys are out of alignment the blade will work it's way off. This could be caused by a worn pulley hub; a worn or broken pulley axel; or worn, broken or frozen bearings where the axels turn. On the drive pulley this could include the bearings on the drive shaft or the boss where the bearings fit into.
- Blade: If there are any kinks or slight bends in the metal they could cause the blade to work off the pulley.

Possible causes:
- Tires: If the tire(s) on the front or rear pulleys are worn, torn or have chuncks out of them, the blade can slip off.
- Pulley(s) out of line: If either or both pulleys are out of alignment the blade will work it's way off. This could be caused by a worn pulley hub; a worn or broken pulley axel; or worn, broken or frozen bearings where the axels turn. On the drive pulley this could include the bearings on the drive shaft or the boss where the bearings fit into.
- Blade: If there are any kinks or slight bends in the metal they could cause the blade to work off the pulley.

You may need a new belt. It sounds like it is slipping.

Locate the tensioner pulley; as you face the engine it is located two in from the right and midway down. It can be identified as a the smooth wheel with the inside ribs of the V (fan) belt facing outwards. In the middle there is splined (torx) nut and a black collar at its base against the wheel. An 8mm socket should fit on this splined shaft pretty well if you don't have the correct size of torx socket. Set the socket wrench at the 3 O'clock position and lift it, as if to undo the torx shaft. With a bit of effort the tension pulley can be lifted against its spring and in the process the belt will become slackened. Make a note of the pulleys and the direction of the belt traced around them. Lift the tensioner pulley and slip the belt forwards. Release the pulley and remove the old belt. Fit the new belt all the way around the pulleys, using your previous sketched layout of the belt th paas a guide, but leave the tensioner pulley until last. Re-engage your socket wrench on the splined shaft and as before lift the pulley against its tension spring. Slip the back of the belt over the tensioner pulley and release the pulley to put the belt back under tension. Note the order of pulleys on which you fit the belt is not critical. On some engine models the belt is first fitted to the tensioner and then fed around until a small pulley, such as for the alternator on the right hand side, is the only one not fitted. By creating a bit of slack by lifting the tensioner pulley it is possible to slip the v belt over this last pulley. Just as note sometimes the clatter from the diesel unit is not just the engine. The tensioner pulley has a damper unit fitted to it to stop it jumping around when the engine is running. The bushes for this damper can wear and the metal mounting collars can rattle loudly result. This can be checked whilst the engine is running by locating the damper and pressing a long handled screw-driver to the end of the damper. If applying pressure to the damper creates a change in engine noise then it is likely that the bushes are worn. If that is the case it can be replaced, I have tried fixing the bushes but nothing has worked for me. I mention all this as this is a good time to address this when replacing the the v belt. The plastic collar at the base of the splined shaft on the tensioner pulley can be prised off and beneath it there is a 15mm tensioner pulley retaining nut; obviously the belt needs to be off first. Removing the tensioner pulley allows access to the 13mm damper mounting bolt.

Belt is loose or pulley needs to be tightened.
Servicing the Tub and Agitator

©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Replace a damaged agitator
with a new one of the same type.
Unscrew the cap on top of the
agitator and pull straight up;
the agitator should lift off.
The washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn't cause problems. However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of noise, vibrate, or stop completely.

If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub should be replaced. In this case, it's probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.

The agitator -- the finned part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laundry if the fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off. If it doesn't move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won't lift off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it. Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.

Damage to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the water pump housing. Look around until you see it.

If the machine doesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.

Sudden tub stops can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.
Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys

The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:

Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.

Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.

Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.