Dryer will not power on

Hello,
Most likely the thermal fuse is bad. Here' the part as well as a video of how to check it. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/b6p17/Kenmore-Washer-Dryer-Combo-Thermal-Fuse/3399849/527775?modelNumber=110.98575120&ss=a17b6d170762&mr=1

You'll need to remove the back panel of the dryer to get to it. It'll be located on the outlet duct neat where the hose hooks up. Don't forget to clean out the vent all the way to the outside. Poor airflow is why they fail. If your vent is clear than replace the t-stat on the heat element as well as the fuse.
Hope this helps. Good luck,
John

Lint Trap

The lint trap is a metal screen with a plastic handle that is located either near the corner at the top of your dryer, or inside the dryer door. In most cases, the lint trap is clearly marked. If your clothes are not drying properly, this is the first place to look because it is the easiest problem to solve. Remove the lint from your lint trap, and then see if your clothes get dry. If they do not, move to the next troubleshooting problem.
Vent Hose

To work properly, a dryer needs to be able to vent warm air. If the vent hose is clogged, bent or has a hole in it, your dryer will not work properly. Examine the vent hose to see if it is installed completely over the dryer exhaust vent, and to make sure it does not have a hole in it. Remove the vent hose to see if it is clogged. There are vent hose brushes you can purchase to clean the vent hose properly. Also check the exhaust vent on the dryer and the outside vent to make sure they are not clogged.

Thermal Fuse

If you have been running your dryer with a clogged vent hose for a while, you may burn out the thermal fuse. A burnt thermal fuse will allow the dryer drum to rotate, but the unit will not heat up. Your owner's manual will show you where the thermal fuse is and provide the part number you need to buy to replace it. Thermal fuses are available at most hardware stores and are easy to replace.
Heating Element

The heating element is the long, coiled wire in the dryer that heats up the air. Over time, the heating element can burn out or become defective. In some models, the heating element can be repaired; in other models, the heating element should be replaced. Refer to your user's manual to see where your heating element is and whether you can repair it or need to replace it.

Hi tim3891...
I know you have tried some of these...but
************************************************
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Hi edelozier..

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

A clothes dryer can go for years without any problems. We come to rely on our clothes dryer, and we can even begin to take it for granted. Then one day we attempt to use our clothes dryer and it has no heat to it. Now we have entered the world of clothes dryer repair, and it is a world that can get expensive. Before you call out the repairman, try some troubleshooting tips to see if you can get the heat flowing back to your dryer again.

Lint One of the easiest fixes for a dryer that will not heat up is cleaning out the lint trap and cleaning out the lint from the dryer exhaust. The lint trap should be cleaned out before each usage. Not only does cleaning the lint trap prevent the possibility of a fire, but a lint trap that is filled beyond capacity will cause the dryer to not heat up. If the lint trap is clean, then inspect the exhaust hose and vent next. If the exhaust hose and vent are cluttered up with lint, then the dryer will not generate heat. You can use your hand to clean out the vent, and broom handle to clean out the vent duct in your house. The flexible hose can be detached and cleaned by hand as well. Thermal Fuse A dryer will run on for a very long time, and when the thermal fuse gives up then there will be no more heat. Finding and replacing the thermal fuse is not difficult, but in order to do it you will need the manual for your dryer. Each dryer model is different as far as how to open up the cabinet, and locate the thermal fuse. You may need to purchase the thermal fuse online from the manufacturer, or you may be able to get a universal fuse that fits your dryer from an appliance repair store. Contact the manufacturer of your dryer to see what kind of thermal fuse they recommend. Thermal fuses cannot be repaired, they must be replaced. In most cases it is easy to tell if your thermal fuse needs replacing as you will see the center of it is burned out. Heating Element Another main culprit to a dryer not heating up is the heating element. According to Repair Clinic.com, the heating element is a coil found in the back of the dryer that the dryer uses to create heat. The only way to tell if a heating element is bad is to check the consistency of the current it generates with an ohm meter. If you are unfamiliar with how to do this, you can either replace the heating element and assume it is faulty, or you can have a repair professional test your heating element for you.please comment on these solution by say how helpful.by rate or vote

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

either you are pushing the dryer back to far and crushing the exhaust vent hose .your exhaust vent going outside is stopped up , or your low temp thermo will not let the dryer cycle and it is over heating.

First make sure you have power to the unit through the plug. If power is present, then you most likely have an open Thermal Safety Fuse. The Thermal is a Safety feature that shuts off the power to the Heat Element in the event the Blower is not blowing or the Lint Vent becomes clogged not allowing air to flow over the Heat Element. NO air flow, Heat Element over heats, Thermal Safety Fuse opens, power shuts off. If the Thermal Safety Fuse is open find out why. Was the blower not working? Was the Lint Filter clogged? ( Lint Filter should be cleaned after each use to assure continued air flow.) Was Lint Vent Clogged? This is the Vent Hose that goes from the Dryer to the outside of your house. It should be checked for free air movement. The next thing-- Could be a defective Timer or Control Module.
Find where you lost power and WHY!!