Question about Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher

3 Answers

F4 problem how do I get to the filters and how do I test the valve mechanism.

Posted by on

Ad

3 Answers

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

  • Expert
  • 351 Answers

F4 fault means set to time fill,turn power off wait 5 sec then press and hold prog and start buttons in and turn power on wait for previos fault to show then release.then press the programme button the dishwasher will show 1 and start filling,press and hold prog button until it stops filling then press prog button until 4 shows on display,then press start finished,turn off then on and test on cycle.

Posted on Mar 02, 2008

  • mrocca Jan 01, 2011

    Thank you Greendude! There were just a couple things we found out too...run your machine until the F4 comes up, then start your process... and I think ours went right to the "1" (and skipped the F4) so then we just pressed "program button" till it came to the 4. Thank you soooo much for putting this online so that we could fix our machine too!

×

Ad
  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

Very sad to report I have same problem. ASKO won't own up to their mistakes. Why are people still purchasing their products? Are we that pathetic that we cannot make them accountable? No won

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

Ad

ASKO does not want to own up 100%`to this problem. Wants me to pay for labor but they will pay for parts the part being the $200 or so manufacturer defective part as is common reported here. The treatment varies as you can see by the posting here. I thought I was buying the most energy efficient, swedish made machine and hopefully problem free. Not so as I discovered. Why do us innocent consumers have to pay for this manufacturer's mistakes? FixYa blog has helped me get my plasma TV out of warranty with manufacturer's defect repaired for free, though it took six months! It is not right for us to have to send a hardly used washer to the curbside.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

2009 MV Agusta F4 RR 312 1078 fault codes


Hi, Paulcalver for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your MV, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
MV Augusta F4 2014 ABS exhaust valve fault
MV Agusta F4 1000 Exhaust Flapper Valve fault
MV Agusta F4 Workshop Manual
OEM Spare parts for MV Agusta motorcycles
MV Agusta F4 Frecce Tricolori Owner Manual

Sep 26, 2017 | 2009 MV Agusta F4 RR 312 1078

1 Answer

2005 MV Agusta F4 Brutale S will not start


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/20-maintenance-tech-issues-all-4-cyl-models/49971-bike-turns-over-but-wont-start.html
Motorcycle Electrical Ignition for MV Agusta Brutale eBay
MV Agusta BRUTALE 910 Workshop Manual
Genuine MV Agusta spare parts
MV Agusta 2005 F4 BRUTALE 910 Owner Manual

Nov 09, 2017 | 2005 MV Agusta F4 Brutale S

1 Answer

2.7 liter engine has a miss. replaced plugs, fuel filter, egr switching selinoid, and downflow o2 sensor. Was told by mechanic that they have found that valves needed to be adjusted.


Before you spend that much more money - replace the distributor cap and rotor (if equipped). If it has a coil pack (or packs) have it (them) tested. Also, under the pack(s) will be a modular. This cannot be tested however, if it looks melted (whitish), or you see bubbles, it is bad. It should have a smooth sleek surface on the top.

If these are not the problem, than the mechanic is right - and you may need to have the lifters adjusted - valves replaced - if you're going to have them adjusted, personally, I'd have the valves, rods and lifters replaced; if it's affordable. If not, have them adjusted.

Have the mechanic decide which would be best (and use your jugement/ go with your instincts - based on your vehicle mileage.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps,

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

May 07, 2010 | 2000 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner

1 Answer

No water going to icemaker


HI. The most common issue here will be the water inlet valve. it may be stuck closed, ro mechanically damaged. use the procedure below to confirm damage.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
 
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.


NOTE_ Make sure the water filter is up to date(IF EQUIPPED). Once these filters reach their filtering limit, they will usually heel the flow of water, thus, shutting down the ice-maker, or dispenser.

Dec 01, 2009 | Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

1 Answer

Water not flowing into ice maker.


HI, this is an inlet issue. it may be clogged with debris, or mechanically failing , as well. Follow the procedure to inspect this device. replace if needed.


The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.


NOTE_ Check the date on the water filter(if equipped). If the filter has reached its filtering limit, it should be replaced. this will obstruct the flow, if so.

Nov 09, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

2 Answers

F4 Fault indication


F4 is a water inlet fault. It doesn't make sense if you have this fault indication with water flowing into the unit. Does the dishwasher drain properly? Usual suspects for an F4 indication would be a clogged inlet line, water supply turned off, bad fill valve, or a control board failure. Let me know if this helps, or give me a little more information on what you have done to correct so far.

Jul 09, 2007 | Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher

Not finding what you are looking for?
Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher Logo

Related Topics:

924 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Asko Dishwashers Experts

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17130 Answers

Owen Barnes

Level 3 Expert

867 Answers

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4655 Answers

Are you an Asko Dishwasher Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...