Question about Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator

6 Answers

RS2534WW There are several things that happened within a couple of days and it is making it hard to figure out what the problem is. First the temperature on the freezer side started to blink as if someone had left the door opened. I made sure it was shut and waited a day or so for it to stop but it didn't. Then the ice maker stopped producing ice but I can still get water out of the water side so I don't think the line is clogged. The temperature of the freezer stays around 58 degrees. On occasion it will get down to 50 but then it will climb back up to 58 and stay there. I tried to change the temperature to see if that would help but it doesn't. The temperature climbs back up to 58. The temperature gauge of the freezer is no longer blinking. And the refrigerator side works just fine. Any ideas? Is it one problem or several? I can't afford to have someone come out so I must fix it myself.

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  • Working Hard Sep 25, 2007

    Hi, I tried your suggestions posted on 9/14/07 and it seemed to help a bit but not solve the problem. Now occasionally the temperature for the freezer will go down to 30 degrees but it will eventually go back up to 60 degrees. In other words, it fluxates. Any ideas?

  • doublehoss Nov 08, 2007

    I am having the exact same issue with my Samsung rs2534ww. the temp flashed on the freezer portion like it was open. I unplugged the frig for over a minute and it stopped flashing but then went to around 50 degrees and would fluctuate between 50 and 60 degrees. from what I have read around the web is I need to shut the thing off for 48hrs? to reset it? I really dont want to do that since I just bought food. please help. thanks

  • jwarra Jul 02, 2008

    Im having the same problem but with the frig side and not the freezer. I have vacummed out all the dust but the frig stays at 58. The freezer is at -2. what can i do.

  • dvigil Sep 17, 2008

    Yep..same problem. The first time, about 1 month ago, began with the ice forming a block and not dispensing. Opened it up and found the coils all iced up. Defrosted it and it worked till this past week. I found the same problem. On the bottom of the freezer coild there is a drain that is supposed to allow water to drain into a holding pan that can be accessed through the back lower panel. It is my understanding that the small amount of water that would end up here from time to time would evaporate from the fan and the heat of the coils that also sit in the pan. This iis part of the design of the fridge. While in there last night it appears that there is some type of sensor that sits down underneath the drain. This makes sense as there has to be a way to keep the water/moisture from freezing up and blocking the drain. It is my guess that this is where the problem lies but not sure how to fix. All others issues seem to be symptoms of the lack of circulation when the botton of the coils ice up.

  • gaveup Jan 06, 2009

    It seems the only solution is to buy a good refrigerator. The local repair service was out here 4 times and the coil in the fridge side still freezes up. They talked to Samsung tech support each tine and was told to order different parts. I have paid for 3 separate parts, and two of the service calls and it's still broken. Now the freezer temp is fluctuating. Crappy product, no support. My new Amana arrives today.

  • russathome Feb 27, 2009

    I have nearly the same problem, but don't think a major defrost will help. My Samsung RS2534WW is only four years old. Yesterday the fridge temp light started blinking; a quick reset (simultaneously holding the Power Freeze/Power Cool buttons) stopped the flashing, but the temp now fluctuates slowly, taking several hours to go from 36 degrees to 59 and then back down again. 
    I can't find any ice buildup in the freezer; taking the back panel off the back showed no ice, only a small amount of dust, and the fan is running. However, the compressor is hot but silent, making no noise but being almost too warm to touch.
    I will mention the ice/water dispensers are not hooked up, the ice box is a recent gift from a newly married friend who had no need of two refrigerators.

  • sbx14 May 11, 2010

    I have this Samsung RS2534VQ and like so many other consumers, this unit has its refrigerator side temperature indicator blinking. I followed instructions of some of your posts and opened the panel inside the fridge. I found the evaporator totally iced up. I let it thaw and dry up overnight. Then everythings started to work normally. But 20 days later, the same problem happened again.

    I called the Samsung service department. The people there are useless but did give me a fax back number to their technical department as the last resort. I faxed it my questions and never got an answer back.

    I am trying to find out if there's a cure for this repeating problem: evaporator getting iced up. It's OK to thaw the ice and make it work again once or twice. But if the same problem keeps on coming back, I'd rather toss the fridge and kiss Samsun good bye.

    I wonder if anyone know how to solve the problem once for all. I know Samsun does not have a clue. Maybe they just don't care. It's a 3-year fridge and it's my problem now, not theirs.



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I just had the exact same problem with my Samsung RS2534WW Fridge from Best Buy. I think the freezer seal was not totally shut and something inside was pushing against the door, so it couldn't close tightly, but was not open enough to trigger the chime alarm. In the morning, the freezer temperature display was blinking. Later on it settled around 59 degrees. Here's what seemed to work for my particular situation: First I pushed the ice selector button, from cube, to crushed, to No Ice. Then I unplugged the fridge for about 10 to 15 minutes. Next, I plugged it back in and held down the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons simultaneously until the chime sound is heard. I read this should reset it, but my display turned completely off. So, I held in the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons again and as soon as the display lit up, I let go. The freezer temperature no longer blinked and settled at 56 degrees. Next, I opened the lower service panel in the back. First, I verified the (evaporator) fan in the middle was running (it was). It seems to pull air in on the freezer side and blow it over the compressor and out the fridge side. The air intake side had a lot of dust, especially on the condenser coils, so I vacuumed it out. Next, I opened the freezer door and noticed a build-up of ice around the freezer air ducts in the back (both exhaust and intake vents). I then used my hair dryer to thaw out the ice and wiped up the water. Next, I closed the freezer door and the temperature read 59 degrees. It stayed on that temperature for 8 hours and then the temperature started to drop quickly and it returned to normal. At that point I turned the ice maker back on and it has been working fine ever since. Apparently, the unit has an 8-hour cool and defrost cycle. I read someone else turned off (unplugged) their fridge overnight with the doors open to let it defrost. When they plugged it back in the next morning, all was working fine. If those tips don't work, you may have a problem with either your cooling system or defrost system, or it could be something as simple as a blown thermal fuse. Hope that helps!

Posted on Sep 14, 2007

  • Robert Oct 17, 2007

    Battle with the Samsung Fridge... Round 2

    There was a brown-out in our neighborhood this past Monday... our digital clocks kept running, but my computer's battery back-up came on for about 10 seconds.  After the brownout, I also noticed that our freezer temperature display started blinking again.

    This time, I unplugged it for about 15 minutes and plugged it back in.  The blinking stopped and I turned off the ice maker.  The temperature would go up and down from about 34-degrees to 44-degrees.  I was hoping it would correct itself after about 8 hours, but it didn't seem to happen.

    So, after about 9 hours, I unplugged it again for another 15-minutes.  Then I plugged it back in and pushed the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons simultaneously until I heard the chime.  The display went dark, but then after about 15-seconds it came back on.  The fridge side was working fine, but the freezer wasn't cooling.

    Next, I removed the racks from the freezer section and blew some hot air from my hair dryer over the vents.  It was at this time that I noticed the 2 air inlet vents at the very bottom had ice inside them.  I got out my flashlight to verify this.  I then removed the 6 screws holding the rear ductwork (2 are behind plastic caps) and tried to pull off the ductwork.  I was working it from the bottom out, but was having trouble removing it.

    I found a link (see below) to purchase the Service Manual online, and since it was a digital delivery (PDF), decided to spend the $10 bucks.  However, it took the seller about 24 hours before he sent me the download link, so I had to proceed without the manual.

    Later, I saw the manual said to remove the rear ductwork by pulling out on the top first and working downward (there's also a cable behind it that would need detaching).  Since I couldn't remove it all the way, I just had the bottom pulled forward a bit.  Behind the 2 inlet vents there is a thin plastic shield held on by 2 plastic posts.  The shield on the left side came loose and I pulled it out the bottom.  Then, with my flashlight, I could see in the left vent that there was a pipe ("hot pipe" in the manual) that was surrounded by a block of ice (maybe 2-inch deep by 3-inch high ice).  My hair dryer was too hot for the plastic, so I used a squirt bottle filled with hot water and shot it through the vent (aiming with my flashlight).  I got the ice to melt off and most of it ran out under the vent and I sponged it up.  A small pool of water remained in the bottom of the plastic compartment (note: it's partially lined with aluminum foil), so I used a squeeze-bulb and straw to siphon the water out.  The thin plastic shield was difficult to guide back up under and into position, so I wish I would have removed the ductwork completely.  Also, I did not remove the right plastic shield, so was only able to remove some of the ice on that side.

    After keeping the door open while I was working on it, the temperature went up to 79-degrees.  I also heard the freezer go into a defrost cycle at one point and more ice melted and water came out.  Then it went into a cool cycle, so I put everything back together, and closed the door, and it returned to -4 and has been holding at that temperature.

    I have now received the manual and it shows many things, such as, both the freezer and fridge sections have their own evaporator fans behind the ductwork.  Also, it shows the Defrost interval is 12-16 hours for the freezer side.  You can force the fridge to defrost, or both the fridge and freezer via the control buttons, but there is not an option for freezer-only defrost.  It also shows how to do a self-diagnostic and the meaning of any displayed error codes.  There is also a section on how to shift the fridge or freezer temperature up or down and store it in the EEPROM as the new default temperature setting.

    Here is the link I found for the Service Manual:

    Let me if you get your freezer working and what fix you end up using.  I'd start by checking for ice in the bottom vents on the pipe.

  • Robert Jul 12, 2008

    Updated link for Samsung Side-by-Side Fridge Service Manuals:


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The service manual can be found at, I having a time with my RS2534WW/XAA Samsung unit.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010


Hey thanks for the tip on holding the two bottons down at the same time. I unplugged the fridge and held buttons down and all seems well now. could not find a manual online for the samsung side by side.

Posted on Jul 11, 2008

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Thank you for that OwnerIQ info, however, they didn't have any Samsung side-by-side manuals

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

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Or ... go to OwnerIQ for a free manual!! I just did and found my model.

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

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Posted on Aug 17, 2007

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