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Anonymous Posted on May 19, 2013

Stops running thermostat

Installed new duotherm ac on rv. Fan starts and stops intermittently while running in cool mode. Compressor is ok. It runs the whole time

1 Answer

william simpson

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  • Dometic Master 1,363 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 20, 2015
william simpson
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Joined: Jan 17, 2012
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Thermostat or relay module issue.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 254 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 22, 2008

SOURCE: Coleman RV roof air

I think you have a high pressure switch that has tripped. open up the case and look for a switch connected to the line with a resettable button in the case it is not resettable you will have to have a professional replace it. If you are able to reset it make sure to clean the condensing coil on the top side before running it again as most likley this is what may have caused it to trip.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 18, 2009

SOURCE: Compressor will not come on. Fan runs great.

I fixed it. I had a dirty connection on the starter relay for the compressor. Thanks again for the help.

Anonymous

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2009

SOURCE: DuoTherm compressor starts but will not continue to run

check condenser fan if running. it will make compressor comes on and off if broken

Bill Long

  • 606 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2009

SOURCE: RV air conditioner. Compressor running, fan stops before cool

The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor.
This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor.
To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok.
To check the capacitor you will need some kind of tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much.
To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.

Anonymous

  • 127 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 04, 2009

SOURCE: Compressor doesnt come on in a dometic duotherm

If this is a wall thermostat controlled unit, then check to make sure that you have power coming from the yellow wire on the thermostat when it is placed in the Cool/Auto High mode. If you do not have power at the yellow wire, then you have a bad thermostat. If you do have power, then remove the control unit from the inside of the AC and see if you have power at the Y terminal there. If so, when you turn the thermostat to cool, can you hear a relay clicking in the box? If not, then you have a bad control box. If the relay is clicking, you need to check the power at the compressor relay on the board. It has a black wire to one side and a purple (or blue) wire on the outgoing side. Check to see if you have 120V on the blue wire when the tstat is set to High/Cool. If not, then you need to bypass the freeze switch to make sure that is not the problem. If you do, then you need to go upstairs and check the start capacitor for OK. It is located in the side compartment of the upper unit, it has a small black relay on the top called a PTCR. These often burn out and will cause the compressor not to work. If that is fine, then you go to the top of the compressor to the thermal overload switch. See if you have power at both sides, if so, then you have a bad compressor. If not, then the overload switch is open and not allowing power to the compressor.

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Ac works fine when fan is on low but fan cuts off after a couple of minutes on high

Bad fan motor. Multi-speed motors have a set of windings for each speed. Your high speed is bad so the only solution is to replace the complete motor. When motors are going bad they will over heat and kick out on the heat safety. As it cools back down it will start again for a short time again until it gets hot again.
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I have a Dometic 15K roof Ac on my FW. After the AC reaches therm temp, the compressor and the fan turn off, but the fan starts right back up again and runs until you set the thermostat on off.

That is normal operation, only the compressor cycles, the fan stays running to keep air circulating for better temp control. Otherwise the rear of the space could get 5 degrees warmer than the front

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_70df8fb57a5e233e

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I have a issue with my 2 Dometic DuoTherm air conditioners. The rv is a 2014 Palamuno Saber 50 amp fifthwheel. Ok. They cool very well but at different random times the compressor shuts off while the fan...

how long a power cord do you have and what size conductors are in it. when a a/c shuts down do to thermostat reaching its setting then trys to start back up shortly the pressures dont have time to equalize resulting in high amp draw. if fans runs all the time instead of shutting off with compresser it will call for cooling fast. i have a 2003 cardinal with 2 a/c's the smaller one has a continous fan & the larger one cycles fan with compressor. i have power cord rated for 50 amps. 110 to 115 is still a low vooltage condition.
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My Dometic roof top ac doesn't cool. Fan runs fine, no COOL air. With thermostat in off position. Checking the voltages I found 118v at the breaker. At the run relay, 118v going in and a coupl

Please reply with Model number of bottom of AC unit ( upper) . Can be seen from inside usually. Thermostat model, plus if controls are at the ceiling assy or at thermostat on wall.
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Compressor doesnt come on in a dometic duotherm rooftop ac unit.Fan runs but no compressor

If this is a wall thermostat controlled unit, then check to make sure that you have power coming from the yellow wire on the thermostat when it is placed in the Cool/Auto High mode. If you do not have power at the yellow wire, then you have a bad thermostat. If you do have power, then remove the control unit from the inside of the AC and see if you have power at the Y terminal there. If so, when you turn the thermostat to cool, can you hear a relay clicking in the box? If not, then you have a bad control box. If the relay is clicking, you need to check the power at the compressor relay on the board. It has a black wire to one side and a purple (or blue) wire on the outgoing side. Check to see if you have 120V on the blue wire when the tstat is set to High/Cool. If not, then you need to bypass the freeze switch to make sure that is not the problem. If you do, then you need to go upstairs and check the start capacitor for OK. It is located in the side compartment of the upper unit, it has a small black relay on the top called a PTCR. These often burn out and will cause the compressor not to work. If that is fine, then you go to the top of the compressor to the thermal overload switch. See if you have power at both sides, if so, then you have a bad compressor. If not, then the overload switch is open and not allowing power to the compressor.
3helpful
1answer

RV air conditioner. Compressor running, fan stops before cool

The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor.
This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor.
To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok.
To check the capacitor you will need some kind of tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much.
To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.
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DuoTherm compressor starts but will not continue to run

check condenser fan if running. it will make compressor comes on and off if broken
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AC/Heatpump units cycle numerous times blowing ambient air.

If the compressor never kicks in, I would check the start capacitor, thermostat and the compressor windings. Most times the start capacitor is defective. Some window air conditioners the fan will run while the compressor stop through the thermostat switch. If the thermostat switch is bad every thing runs except the compressor. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
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