Hey guys, I have a 750.1 amp powering my two subs in my car. I noticed that my subs weren't coming on tonight so I popped the trunk to notice a red LED on my amplifier instead of the usual green.
I did a little research online and found that the light usually indicates a short, damage to the amp, or incorrect hooking up of wires. I barely pop my trunk so I'm positive I didn't change any wires. I figured it must have shorted out so I removed power to the amp and then checked both fuses on the amp. They are perfectly fine, yet when I re-attached the power cable, I was still greeted by a red LED on the amp.
What happened? If there was a problem that randomly happened, why didn't the fuses blow? Why all of a sudden is my amp not working?
Is there a way to fix this by resetting the amp somehow. I cannot afford a new amp or to take it to a shop this month.
SOURCE: I have a kicker dx 500.1 amp and a kicker cvr12
check the fuse on the power wire (+) not the ground wire .. i had a kicker 1500.1 on 2 l7 15\'s and when the bass would hit hard the fuse would vibrate and cause the amp to go into safe mode.. after re wireing the whole truck i then found out it was the 150amp fuse holder
SOURCE: Power Protection Circuit (SORT) Engaged
Umm a ohm meter would help you here. Double check the wires from the sub to the amp...make sure its not shorting out. Try starting the amp without the wires on the terminals...if the protection shows up then there is a short inside the unit and it will need to be replaced/repaired.
SOURCE: Red light on Amplifier
if your amplifier has the internal Kicker card dealie "little computer card on the side that you can change out crossover settings and such," Turn off the vehicle, remove this device and make sure the contacts on the card are clean and free from black soot (showing a spark). clean the contacts with a pencil eraser or something hard but soft... and put the little card back in place, start the car again and see if that helps, I used to lose one speaker every once in a while with the same amp. I ended up replacing the module with a different one from my dealer and it worked fine (still does and it's been in my car 6 years). Check that little module. if this doesnt work, while the car is running and the music is "playing" wiggle the card and see if it works sometimes and not others. Likely is the little module.
SOURCE: i think ma kicker kx1200.1 amp is blown or ma kicker L7 are gone
that would be the amp. sorry to say. when a wire crosses over, it sends a shock through the amp, there are a few things to try just to see if you fried the amp. the first thing to try is to move your ground to a different location. second thing to look at would be the fuses. alot of times the fuses will blow at the slightest shock. the amp will still turn on if you have an amp with 2 fuses, it just wont be getting all the power it needs, which could be causing your problem. also, it is worth the hour and a half to mount everything down in your vehicle. you might check the kicker website, because i have herd rumors that kicker offers a lifetime warranty on almost all of their products. best of luck, and i hope you didnt fry your amp.
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Hey pbabin, I don't own a volt meter but I do have a Tsunami capacitor in my trunk with a digital readout. Looks to say around 13 volts is coming in line before the amp. That should be fine and seems normal. My read outs were similar when I first installed the system.
Should I mention that the LED doesn't turn green? Not even for a second. When power is added, the LED starts a bright red and then slowly fades dimmer. Always red though. Even with speaker wires and RCAs disconnected, it still wont go green.
This amp has 2 fuses on it and neither are blown. How could my amp be fried when this "protection mode," and 2 fuses, are there to protect it?
If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, do the following.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals on the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired.
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