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I don't believe there is an adjustment for the oil and if there is it won't help you. the problem in either a simple issue like you forgot to add (not likely but have to throw it out there) to an issue with the oil pump or pump drive. if you run the saw with no bar and chain do you get oil out of the passage?
On both screws, turn them in just until they seat, not tight. Back them out one full turn. Start the motor and let it run until it gets up to temperature. If it won't start or stay running, turn the L screw out another 1/2 turn. With the motor idling, turn the L screw in just until you hear the motor tone change then back it out until it smoothes out and keep going until the motor tone changes or starte running rough. Turn it back in half way between these two points. With a blade on the saw, hold the throttle at about 1/2 to 3/4 full and adjust the H screw using the same method.
Make sure that your chain is properly tightened and that the bar does not have any dents or dings in guide groove.I like to have my chains tightened to where you can pull them up at the mid-point of the bar about enough to fit the thickness of a nickle in between it and the bar.Do this when saw and chain are at operating temperature.If nothing else helps try a new chain if you have reached the end of tensioning adjustments. Thank you.
If this is a late model saw, the adjustment screws have 'D' heads that need a dealer-only 'D' screwdriver. If the screws have slotted heads, then turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back each 1-1/2 turns CCW. This is a basic setting, so the engine should start and run. Start the engine and allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Turn H CW until the engine speeds up, but still 4-stroking. When properly adjusted, the engine should 4-stroke, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Allow to idle and adjust L CW for fairly smooth running, yet allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw to stop the chain from turning, yet the engine keeps running. Hope this helps!
You provide no manual, I chose a "DCS34" a link follows: http://www.makita.ca/data/upload/tools/DCS34%20F-E.pdf
It lists no starting point for the "H" and "L" needle valves, I recommend 1.5 CCW from lightly seated. then tune for performance like this: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter and spark arrestor; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. If the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Did Makita give any oil pump adjustment? Most gas saws have them. Underneath below the oiler hole.
I am going to allow this to close we can still talk to one another.
Lou
hello,the starting point for adjustment screws is 2 turns out.turn in til lightly seated so as not to damage them. there are 2 or more style carbs used on saw,some have plastic caps that need to be removed(a small metal screw used as a corkscrew or pry off) or you need a special tool -splined.set high spped til runs good and back off an 1/8-1/4 turn so you dont burn it up. fine tune low spped so it accelerates when trigger squeezed and re check high speed adjustment.single screw is for idle spped-raises or lowers-if chain turns while at idle back off screw.
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