2004 Nissan Maxima Logo
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
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2006 nissan maxima clutch problems

Hello,


I have intermediate clutch issues with my 2006 maxima. It works 80% of the time but sometimes the car will not start and the clutch pedal goes all the way down to the floor board without engaging. The pedal remains to the floor and we have to wait 45 minutes to 1 hour before it works again. Have you heard of this problem? Nissan things we are nuts and never happens when they have the car. My wife has called Nissan to complain but they never had a problem with any other clutches. How can I fix this issue?

Please Help!!!

John

  • 8 more comments 
  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2009

    Yes..

  • pq08 Mar 17, 2009

    Yes, it has a hydralic clutch system on the 2006 maxima.

  • pq08 Mar 17, 2009

    I tried that and still no luck...

  • pq08 Mar 17, 2009

    I did bleed the clutch system and still happens.

  • pq08 Mar 17, 2009

    Would the master cylinder have intermediate issues?

  • pq08 Mar 17, 2009

    Thanks and I will replace the clutch master cylinder. HAve a good one!!!

  • Anonymous Apr 18, 2009

    Don't know if its the same problem as you but I have a 2004 Maxima SE with very same problem. Problem occurs 99% of the time during spring/summer season. I bought the car new and its been a problem since the beginning. Nissan could not reproduce it so its not a problem. Problem happens either after sitting on stop and go traffic for a long time or after making a series of stop and go visits (drive home from work. 15m later drive to the store, 10m later drive kids to lacrosse, etc) by the 3rd trip the problem is there. Start out as no pressure at the top of the peddel and gets progressively worse. At its worse, the peddle is at disengages a 1/4' above the floor. Sometimes the peddle gets stuck at the bottom and I need to pull it back up with my foot. I usually find it like this when I come back out to the car after an hour or so. Once I get the car moving, its usually goes away within 5m of driving.



    At 35k I went back to Nissan and they said it was the clutch without even looking at it. I went to a different, local mechanic to begin the trail and error approach.



    First we bled the system twice.

    Then replaced the master cylinder

    Then the slave cynlinder

    Then the equilization valve



    With all of the external stuff changed (except the tubing) we moved inside. At 65K I had him replace the entire clutch, which by the way he said looked great for 65K (thanks Nissan for your offer at 35K).



    Now after all of that, it did it again last night, it was 80 out, Drive 15m home from work, 20m later drove 2m to church for a meeting, Peddle was grabbing 1/2w down by the time I got there. Came out 2h later to find the peddle practically at the floor. Could barely get it in gear. 5min, 1/2m later it was back to normal.



    Pumping the peddle has no affect. I definitely think its heat related. Mechanic says he put DOT5 fluid in it so over heating should not be an issue. I'm at my wits end. If you come you with any hints or a solution, please let me know.



    Scott Kellish

    Clark, NJ

    [email protected]

  • dumo470 May 13, 2009

    I had the same problem with the same model. The mechanics were not able to locate the problem. Happened a week ago, I hope does not happen again.

  • James Bradburn
    James Bradburn May 11, 2010

    Is this a hydraulic clutch system?

  • Bill Oct 04, 2013

    The hose collapses internally, blocking the fluid from coming back, keeping the clutch disengaged at that point until it slowly comes back up. Change the hose. Done.

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  • Posted on Dec 04, 2010
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The problem is that the slave cylinder is right next to the front head of the engine-heat, heat and more heat!!! I put a piece of aluminum angle to curb the heat and installed a fan to blow right at the slave cylinder-PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

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  • Posted on Dec 19, 2009
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I have the same problem with my '06. It must be a design problem of some sort for so many people to have the same issue. I think we should all call the dealerships' service departments so they can address it with Nissan tech reps. Then if Nissan doesn't come up with a 'fix' we advertise the problem somehow so Nissan loses customers or customer confidence.

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  • Posted on Mar 17, 2009
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Check the fluid level. Try to bleed the clutch system it may have air in it. If that dont work let me know

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  • James Bradburn
    James Bradburn Mar 17, 2009

    Well it sounds like you need to replace the clutch master cylinder. They run about $70

  • James Bradburn
    James Bradburn Mar 17, 2009

    but before that i would have the pressure plates checked for broken springs.

  • James Bradburn
    James Bradburn Mar 17, 2009

    Yes they are know to have problems one min but not the next.

  • Raymond
    Raymond Sep 20, 2015

    I have 2005 maxima manual tranny. I when car is cold clutch works fine, when driving an hour pedal gets hard and eventually my pedal goes to the floor not returning. Any help?

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  • Posted on Apr 23, 2014
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Problem: 2006 Nissan Maxima 6-speed manual: the clutch fails in hot weather and clutch pedal falls to floor. The car is either stuck in or out of gear- pretty frustrating when you flew across the country for the last 06 Elite Package, fully loaded in all leather leather, and then had the car shipped across the country only to find it overheats in rush hour traffic. I read Scheran's post, and the HEAT theory so far holds. As long as I avoid stop & go traffic when its warmer than 70 degrees out my car works. Great design Nissan. The plan for this summer: bleed the clutch fluid lines, refill with DOT4, install the angle aluminum and wire in fan pointing at clutch, and maybe a super subtle scoop in the hood to increase air flow. I'll follow up when I'm done.

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  • Posted on Oct 04, 2013
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Mine did the same thing, where the pedal would stay down, and then not come back up, but no leaks, and then later start working again. Read everybody's posts, and then remembered having a locked up brake caliper that turned out to be just the hydraulic hose there collapsing internally, locking the pressure in. So I changed the clutch Hose rather than trying the more expensive fixes here that do nothing good, and sure enough, that fixed it absolutely.

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  • Posted on Apr 15, 2010
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Usually,you should only use dot 4 in a hydralic clutch.dot 5 is thicker and is bad with air bubbles.(thats only if its hydralic.) my 86 300zx's clutch was stuck to the floor.i had to pull it up myself,so i stopped driing it.all it was was a leak in a hose-replace the cheap stuff before spending $1100,please.

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  • Posted on Jun 30, 2009
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I went the route of having my mechanic (private, not Nissan) replace everything (see my earlier post to see what I had to go through), even after all that the symptoms were still there. I took the car to Nissas and asked them to bleed the system. Apparantly its a slow and tedious process on this car as it took them well over an hour (which they said it would) and they said they might still not get all of the air out and might need to do it again. I noticed a night and day improvement. I'm going to have them bleed it again at the next oil change.

Scott

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  • Posted on Jun 29, 2009
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My car was doing the same thing, replace the master cylinder didn't help anything and now they say I have to replace the clutch, pressure plate, throw out barings, which is a 1100 $ job, ugh and I only have 46k on my car. I really hope spending this money will fix the issue at hand!

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