Question about Magic Chef MCWC30MCG Compact Wine Cooler

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Magic Chef MCWC44DZ E4 error

I have a Magic Chef wine cooler model MCWC44DZ, and the bottom section temerature gage just says E4 instead of the temperature. The condenser feels hot to me but I don't know what they usually run. The manual says that the upper compartment could have an E4 error but not the bottom. Do I need to take it in somewhere or can I fix it myself? Thanks. David

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  • jddati Mar 24, 2009

    Magic Chef MCWC44DZ E4 error
    I have the same problem - the lower unit display reads E4, although at times it will also display the temperature.
    This appears to a a very common problem with this unit, and Magic Chef products in particular. And, woe is me, my unit is four months past the expiration of the one year warranty.


  • Anonymous May 21, 2009

    We also have the E4 error on our Magic Chef wine cooler. The manual says that E4 is for the bottom DC fan. However, the manual does not say how to get to the fan to check or replace it. I was wondering if anyone else was able to fix this problem and where did you find a replacement part? Thanks! LR

  • drillsir Jun 21, 2013

    Add one more corrosion problem to the list. I took the middle plastic shelf out and re-terminated the fan wires for both the upper and lower fans and sealed them against humidity and moisture (the way they should have been designed by Magic Chef). Probably a $0.50 cost reduction that cost them $5M in warranty. Doom on them.

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I found the connectors corroded for both fans. The lower fan connector had one pin that was completely destroyed. I hard wired the wires together as a test and the unit is working perfect. Check the fan connectors by removing the two screws that hold the shelf in place and cafefully slide out fron the cooler. You will have to disconnect several connectors hidden in the right side of the shelf before you can completely remove it. Good Luck.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

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  • bobml3 Oct 29, 2009

    See answer from bobml3

  • bobml3 Jun 25, 2010

    They are clip together connectors, sorry I can't remember exactly how they come apart but it was pretty evident when I saw them. I didn't remove either fan. I just clipped and stripped the wires and use what is known as a wire nut to twist them together. Electrical tape would work also.

  • handytheman Jul 06, 2010

    bobml3 is exactly right! My wine fridge was sitting in the same place for two years. Today I moved and when the movers set it in place and plugged it in, I got the E3 and E4 codes on the screen. I searched the internet and found bobml3's comments and sure enough, the connectors were corroded and the wires broke loose during the move. I replaced the factory connectors with insulated bullet connectors and my fridge is back up and running protecting my investments! I may not have the bed set up yet, but my wine is safe!

  • John Hurlbut Jul 28, 2012

    That worked awesome!, thanks everyone!!!

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I did exactly what bobml3 did. I am not an electrician but I'm willing to try things before hiring one. My upper zone was not cooling because the fan was not running. I had a E3 error. By opeing the front door, removing a screw from either side of the middle shelf and also taking off the front cover of the middle shelf, I was able to follow the wire which led to the upper fan. By checking the connectors, I found the one black one connected to the back of the shelf going to the upper fan was corroded. I cut the connector off and stripped the wires and used electrical wire to connect them. (Hard wire?). When I plugged unit back in- WaLa. Not bad for a chick!!!

Posted on Jan 13, 2010

  • doversc Dec 24, 2010

    Good job describing your fix!!! My problem was exactly the same (E3). I found a wire broken off at the connector. Thanks!!

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Bobml3 - can you tell me more about how you were able "to disconnect several connectors hidden in the right side of the shelf before you can completely remove it?" also, do you need to remove the 4 screws that surround each fan or just the 4 screws in each corner of the large back cover? thanks!

Posted on Apr 09, 2010

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I followed the directions provided here by bobml3, it worked perfectly. Proactively hardwired the upper fan as those connections were starting to show corrosion. Definitely needed wire strippers for 20 gauge ($9) and I also ended up using cold/thermal electric tape ($2) to protect the new connections. Fans are running again and temperature on both zones are dropping from room temp. The hardest part was disconnecting the plastic connectors on the right hand side of the shelf as they are tight and in a difficult space to work with your fingers. A great fix for a $12 investment in tools and supplies.

Posted on Jun 25, 2010

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Where can you order new fans for the unit?

Posted on Dec 22, 2009

  • rmhnc Dec 22, 2009

    Would be curious...seems like a built in flaw

  • rmhnc Dec 23, 2009

    bobml3 & wadeL have the correction solution.



    I had exactly the same problem. It is pretty easily fixed by following their advice. This morning my cooler was a piece of junk...tonight the error messages are gone and the fans, compressor etc are working fine. They should have used a little higher quality connector and this problem could have been avoided.



    I am not very handy and was able to fix it. Save your money and fix it yourself.

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+1 on the corroded connectors. The connectors to the fans get moisture in them and corrode.

I had ordered a fan before getting into it. I could have used the existing fan because I ended up just stripping the wires and hard connecting them. Only tool needed is a phillips screwdriver. There are 3 connectors on the side to remove the control panel shelf. Its a pretty simple job.


Posted on Dec 22, 2009

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If the fan connector(s) short out due to moisture build up it can damage the fan power supply which means if you follow the steps above and still have the E3 E4 error then most likely the fan power supply was damaged. In my case I followed the suggestions above and twisted the fan connector wires together and still had the E3 E4 errors and fans were not spinning. FIXING THE POWER SUPPLY IS AN ADVANCED STEP AND NOT FOR SOMEONE WHO IS UNFAMILIAR WITH ELECTRONICS AND WORKING AROUND 120VAC ***IF YOU WISH TO CONTINUE TO TROUBLESHOOT AND REPAIR THE FAN POWER SUPPLY THEN PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

LOCATING THE POWER SUPPLY PCB IN THE MIDDLE SHELF:
I measured the voltage at each end of the wire pairs going to the fans with a multi-meter and both pairs read 0 volts. Unplug the unit and remove the 4 middle shelf connectors. Next I took apart the middle shelf (remove the 4 screws) and removed a black rectangular cover that sits on a black rectangular box. Inside the box is the power supply PC board. There are 4 screws to remove the PC board from the middle shelf.

TROUBLESHOOTING AND REPAIR THE POWER SUPPLY PCB:
Once the PC board was removed I inspected the circuit board and found the S8050 NPN transistor that feeds the upper fan voltage fried. I checked the transistor and found the collector and emitter was shorted and base to emitter and base to collector voltage was not correct. Should be around .630 volts for a good transistor. There was also a 120VAC to 10VAC 400ma step-down transformer that read 0 volts on the secondary output terminals when it should read 10VAC. I unsoldered the transformer from the PC board and checked resistance on the primary winding which read infinite ohms. I took apart the transformer removing each e i lamination carefully https://www.google.com/search?q=transformer+e+i+lamination&espv=210&es_sm=91&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=fVbLUovbJZHfoAT4m4CYAQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1147&bih=627

Next I unwrapped the transformer tape and found a small thermal protector that read infinite ohms. I replaced the thermal protector and re-wrapped the transformer. Then replaced all the e i laminations and re-soldered the transformer back onto the PC board. I replaced the fan power supply capacitor as well which had some abnormal readings (12 ohms across the capacitor). There are two large radial capacitors of 1000uF 25V on the PC board. I located the fan power supply capacitor by following the copper traces on the PC board and replaced it. Pay attention to the polarity of the capacitor and when replacing it make sure you orientate the capacitor so its positive polarity aligns with the + symbol and the PC board silk screen.

REASSEMBLY:
I re-installed the PC board in the black box and reversed the steps I used for taking the middle shelf apart. I put the middle shelf back together and reconnected the fan wires to the fans. Plugged the wine cooler back in and this cleared my E3 E4 errors and unit is now working correctly. I think that the corroded fan connector shorted and this excessive current caused the transistor to burn up and short which then caused the thermal protector in the transformer to cut voltage off to the transformer.

Posted on Jan 07, 2014

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  • Ted S
    Ted S Jun 09, 2014

    E4 code and lower fan not working, checked wires as discussed above and sure enough, hardwired and code gone and display working yet lower fan not running, any thought at this point. New fan or??

  • Bart Falzarano
    Bart Falzarano Jun 09, 2014

    The fans do not always run. If the temperature of the unit reaches the temperature setting you programmed on your wine cooler then one or both of the fans may turn off. This is normal operation. To see if the fan turns on, perhaps set the temperature setting a little lower. If the lower fan still does not spin then you can check the fan by connecting a 9v battery to the wires that go to the fan. This means disconnecting the hardwired connection you connected previously and hooking up the fan wires to a 9v battery. If the fan spins then the fan is working and the problem may be elsewhere in the power supply circuit per my post above.

  • cole5123
    cole5123 Aug 04, 2014

    What should the voltages be at the main PCB for the fans. I'm getting ~17v on the upper (which works) and ~13v on the lower (not working). Either fan will work when connected to the upper zone power supply.

  • Frank Risalvato
    Frank Risalvato Nov 16, 2015

    This is very helpful. I just ordered a new motherboard from Magic Chef as my E4 error is unfortunately not the fans (both working fine) and not the connections (clean as a whistle). My issue is a blown PC board (motherboard). I just bought one for $69.00 but for the life of me can NOT FIGURE OUT how to open (separate) the 2 halves of that control shelf! Every one says "remove the 4 screws" which are below the control shelf but it is very tight and I don't want to crack the plastic forcing the 2 halves to separate. Any advice on how to actually, safely, open that control shelf apart? Please be specific .if possible

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Thank you, bobml3. My son came over and hard-wired the lower fan (sure enough, the white connector had come undone) and the thing is running beautifully. He used the little crimp-on connectors.

Posted on Jun 02, 2013

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Great suggestion. I had the same issue with the E3 and E4 lights. Put new easy connectors on and works fine now. Reran the fan wires to the back of the separator panel and this gave me about 4-5 inches of wire to work with when making the new connection. left the connections exposed so if I have the problem again, I do not have to disconnect the other wires.

Posted on Apr 16, 2013

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There are 4 connections on the RIGHT side of the shelf.

Once you've removed the two phillips screws on the shelf--slide it approximately 1/3 of the way out; marke the connectors (not necessary--but facilitates reassembly); and disconnect each of the 4 connectors.

At the back of the shelf--you will find the two (paired) leads that power the fans. Again--mark each (one is white, the other black). I believe the white connector powers the lower fan (hence my E4 code)--black the upper fan (most likely culprit if you have E3 code). The shelf will now completely slide out.

Cut one pair of wires at a time from the square connectors. Strip each wire, and crimp, solder or simply twist-n-tape the red-to red; black to black. Repeat for the other connector.

Reassemble.

Posted on May 27, 2012

  • Dryfly Nov 12, 2012

    Followed instructions, but when I plugged back in, it did not work. If you have any other suggestions,they would be appreciated

  • Mike Sullivan
    Mike Sullivan Mar 25, 2014

    There is no way red-to-red and black-to-black works. The wires going to each fan are both black and red.

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I posted a short video showing how to fix it using the instruction from the other comments.

Posted on Apr 24, 2014

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I haven\'t completely solved this yet - my upper section quit cooling more than a year ago, and I had an appliance guy out to look at something else and he said "the control system needs to be replaced" which is . Just followed this instruction and sure enough, the upper fan connection is corroded out - I just started getting the E3 error though even though the upper section hasn\'t been cooling for more than a year.

That said - here\'s a helpful hint - using a small, flat-blade screw driver, pop open the access panel on the front of the middle shelf. You can then easily disconnect the connectors that go through the right side of the fridge and then the shelf slides out very easily.

Instead of hardwiring it like others have suggested, I\'m going to put in automotive-grade connectors and then wrap them well with tape to protect them, and coat them with connector grease before I reconnect it. That way if I do have to replace a fan, it\'s an easier removal and I\'m not sacrificing any wire when I do so.

Posted on Dec 13, 2012

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