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Extremely difficult to turn over, but after several rotations will start and run fine after that. Also has oil leak in vicinity of compression head. Spark plug not oil fouled.
Toro 20487 Super Recycler Mower with B&S 6.5HP engine.
Well if you can pinpoint the leak you may be able to repair it. if you test the compression in the engine you can tell if the rings or valve are bad. you need a specail tool to test compression, $45. let me know what you find
the recoil spring could be damaged also. if it catches just a little bit it will make it hard to pull. how old is the machine?the recoil spring could be damaged also. if it catches just a little bit it will make it hard to pull. how old is the machine?
am having the same problems as josh. same mower model 20487. Mower is 12yrs old. Was having a very difficult time starting mower with pull rope, had to sometimes put a lg rubber wheel choke behingd one wheel and give a good strong pull to start. it was catching on something. decided to cut pull rope down a bit and install a rubber pull handle, now it works a bit better, still catches on something. Now I have the same mower making a loud running noise think its the carb.- to the left of the air filter compartment- any suggestions? as to if I should try some carb. cleaner spray or that pb balster lawnmower spray?am having the same problems as josh. same mower model 20487. Mower is 12yrs old. Was having a very difficult time starting mower with pull rope, had to sometimes put a lg rubber wheel choke behingd one wheel and give a good strong pull to start. it was catching on something. decided to cut pull rope down a bit and install a rubber pull handle, now it works a bit better, still catches on something. Now I have the same mower making a loud running noise think its the carb.- to the left of the air filter compartment- any suggestions? as to if I should try some carb. cleaner spray or that pb balster lawnmower spray?
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Very small 2 strokes need lots of compression,so keep the oil mix high,even as low as 22 to 1,should be 25 to 1,but take care mixing.scrape out all the oil and mix thoroughly.Each pull of the rope should be quite hard,and you should really feel each compression.if motor keeps on turning by itself after you've stopped pulling,it means compression poor,replace barrel,piston
Check the spark plug that is gapped 0.020" for blue, snappy spark. If weak or nothing, expose the flywheel and ignition module, then turn the flywheel until the magnets are under the module poles. Insert a thin business card into the pole gaps, loosen the module screws and allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws and rotate the flywheel somewhat to release the card. Rotate the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up further. Remove the ignition switch wire from the module coil, and try for spark again--if nothing, replace the module. If the initial check for spark was fine, then pour a little fuel into the cylinder head through the plug hole and try for start. If it fires several times, you have fuel delivery problems. Check for fuel flow from the tank by removing the fuel line at the carburetor--it should run out in a thin stream. If nothing or just drips, check the fuel filter for plugging. If ok, then remove the carburetor, disassemble, and clean the interior with spray carburetor cleaner. Use of compressed air will help clean any small passages. Hope this helps!
Your compression release is not working as it should. On some saws, the compression release is a manual lever / button that is pressed before starting attempts. Sometimes it is tied into the choke. Other saws have an automatic compression release, based on a centrifugal cam.
If you are able to rotate the engine through the compression cycle, then the release "lobe" is likley worn. If you are not able to rotate the engine through the compression cycle, then the release mechanism is jamming.
We have a Husky 435 (two year warranty) that was new last year. It would start and run fine for several days, then nothing--took to warranty service where they replaced the ignition module the first time. Ran for several more days, then nothing again--this time they replaced the carburetor and it seems to working fine from then on. Suspect that Husqvarna has had problems with our ethanol-blended fuels. If you still have warranty coverage, then take advantage. Hope this helps!
my 455 did this also I went and bought a new gas filter new gas and mix. try this you might have some water in your gas,also add some sea foam additive to your gas mixture just about a table spoon to 2.5 gallons of gas
See if there is an oil pressure guage on the dash. When you start the machine it probably has a low oil pressure shutdown which shuts the engine off when you release the start button. This is an interlock. Watch the oil guage and keep the start button engaged until you see oil pressure, release the button and it will continue to run at that point. Your second issue may be a function of the choke. If you are having to choke the engine to start, you may have to play with the choke position to keep from overfueling the unit which may cause it to stall and possibly backfire as it has to much fuel to be burned on the compression stroke, and is igniting occasionally on the intake stroke. Hope this helps. Marvin
It’s possible the ignition module has gone bad do this first. If it’s good and the saw will start it may quit when it gets hot. I don’t think that is true but keep it mind. If it does suddenly just quit running, immediately test the coil before it can cool. Ignition Coil Test SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You don’t have to bend up the electrode. You refueled it and it wouldn’t start? Any chance you put straight gas in it?
Was this saw perhaps operated without oil mixed with the fuel? ·Remove the spark plug wire and plug. ·Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears? ·Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges? ·Hold the light at the exhaust port and inspect the cylinder, above the exhaust port, through the spark plug hole. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by the independent saw shop should be considered.
It might be a bad fuel vent? Not likely if you just refueled, more likely if it staves after running for a few minutes. Loosen fuel cap when it starts to sputter (rotate saw if necessary) if it picks up again bad vent.
Most likely it was flooded. A flooded saw can be extremely difficult to restart. Did you try to choke a hot saw? That is almost guaranteed to cause it to flood. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls, if not heard after 6 pulls stop! Something is wrong)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Hope this helps Lou If it was flooded it should start easily if it has been sitting for a couple of days. It could still be coil or vent problem.
I worked at a tool rental center while attending college and encountered the problem that you are having many times. The problem was caused be a variety of issues however can be determined by checking the following:
Worn starter motor bearings that would be indicated by higher than normal amp draw. Check for hot starter motor or hot cables.
Weak battery. The battery should be removed and tested for free at auto parts store. The battery should be replace every season to extend the life of the starter motor.
Belts or hydraulic pump that is not fully releasing from engine pulley or output shaft. Remove the spark plugs from the engine and tune engine by hand, it should turn rather freely.
Finally, compression release feature of engine is not working properly. Check engine service manual for proper adjustment of valves so that compression release will work. Finally check oil level for over full. Too much oil will raise compression. Good luck with your problem and email for more info.
Ed, I think that when all is said and done you will find that you have a defective STARTER MOTOR. If the BATTERY is at full Charge, and it takes a Battery Charger added to the Battery in order to get enough current to turn over and Start the Motor. I suspect the Starter Motor is defective.
I also have Sears Tractors with Briggs, three of them.
Also clean your Spark Plug when you service the Engine.
Good Luck!
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