Something is broken inside ignition switch housing.

was ignition switch flashed to vehicle

Hi Rick, I'm glad to help! I see you've checked all the fuses. There's one more fuses I'd like you to check in the PDC under the hood. It's a 40 amp fuse that goes gets power from the battery through the fuse and directly to the ignition switch. If that fuse is good here's step 2: Swap the starter motor relay with the same kind in the PDC and see if it will start if it doesn't. Here's step 3: have someone hold the key all the way to the start position while checking the small wire at the start motor with a test light, if it lights up, tap the starter with something, a hammer to see if it turns over, if it does replace the starter. If the wire at the starter doesn't light up then its not seeing the ignition run circuit. This could be due to the nuetral safety switch or it could be that the ignition switch housing is broken inside or the tumbler itself on the end that turns the switch is broken. Here's a quick check, take the ignition switch back off and use a screw driver to turn it over by hand, if it starts then you know the problem is in the housing or the tumbler itself. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Rick!

The security, antitheft, or passlock light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterperates this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle.

http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

sounds like a bad ignition switch.

I'm in the middle of repairing this right now on my 2000. I noticed that in addition to the two anti-theft bolts that need to be removed, there is another bolt on top of the SCLA that when screwed all the way in, is supposed to align with a hole in a rotating assembly that is inside the steering column. I believe that if this is not aligned, then it won't hold the lock in place and when you turn the steering wheel you might get the behavior that you are seeing.

Its usually NOT the lock cylinder on the 470s, its usually the housing. The cylinder is on the dash and points towards the engine. Behind the plastic dash panel (once removed) you will see it in fact sticks in an aluminum tube that goes down 2 or 3 inches, then makes 2 turns, left to attatch to the steering column, and right to attatch to the actual ignition switch. The gear and rod assembly that the cylinder attatches to that allows it to rotate the switch usually shatters in the middle and the key starts freewheeling because there is no longer any attatchment to any of the gears or springs or click points that youd usually feel as the rotational resistance. UNFORTUNATELY this is not a 5 minute job (If it was, cars would be a breeze to steal!). Youll need at least a lock cylinder housing (dealer stock em, they break all the tyme), and IF your cylinder is undamaged, change the housing (it bolts to the steering column and extends from column towards center console area where the ignition SWITCH is actually located). If your cylinder is damaged or the housing is so shredded you cant remove the lock cylinder by normal means...then youll also need the cylinder...and it will have to be recoded to the vehicle so the anti theft will allow the new keys/cylinder to start the car. If your old cylinder and keys are intact, then transfer them to the new housing and car wont even know it happened and should start up and work as normal. Some can be removed intact, some cant...depends on how yours broke.

does any thing come on? if not you ignition switch is bad. and that will need to be replaced.

the ignition switch may need to be replaced. im not sure if a lock smith can replace the ignition switch, call around to see if they can.

The ignition crank shaft is broken inside the Steering Column Lock Assy. You will need to buy a new assy (cost appr. $202.21) and 2 steering lock bolts (cost appr. $4.96 ea) at a Toyota or Lexus dealer. Call either dealer for best price and availability. To replace you'll need to remove the black snap-on panel below speedometer then remove the screws securing the driver side dash. Behind the dash is a steel plate. Remove that and remove the steering column covers by turning the steering wheel to access the screws. You'll see that the SCLA is secured by 2 break-away bolt (this is an anti-theft feature). Use a dremel tool with cutting disc to make a notch in the screw head to remove with a flathead screwdriver. If this doesn't work your other option is to cut the bolts where the assy bolts together. Remove the broken SCLA and remove the key FOB and install into new SCLA. If your mechanically incline this should take about 2-3 hrs. and save you $300-400 in labor cost.

use a test light the wire from the battery should be hot all the time the wire that goes to the solenoid should be hot when the key is turned over to start and the wire going to the coil should be hot when the key is in run.