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Daewoo washing machine won't turn on

Mt daewoo m1231 washing machine won't turn on, it tripped the electric mid cycle and since won;t turn has no lights on the display. have tried changing the fuse, using another socket and cleaning the filters. Any idea's?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 209 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint Aquarius WD64 - Tripping the electric?!

something is going down to earth, start by unplugging the motor and retesting, if it doesn't trip them check the motor carbons etc, if it trips then check the heater element for contact down to earth, replace if needed etc, then check the outlet pump the same way if i have helped rate me please ps when working on machine remove from power supply

Posted on Oct 03, 2007

SOURCE: washing machine

Check the brushes in the motor. They've probably worn down and need replacing.

Posted on Oct 06, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: error codes

My Kenmore H3 stops working, starts beeping and flashing "F9", but it only happens when I'm washing a heavy load like jeans or bath towels. I think it gets off-balance and I have found that if I hit "pause" once and then hold in "start" briefly it somehow resets itself and works fine from then on till the load is completely done.

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

  • 417 Answers

SOURCE: Zanussi ZWD1680W Front Load All-in-One... Problem:

With the symptoms you describe i would suspect a intermittent heater element fault as you are getting earth leakage current which is tripping the whole supply rather than a current overload which would just trip the socket circuit breaker. Get the heating element checked over first as this is the most likely cause.

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: why does my washing machine trip the electric

Someone with a wattmeter needs to read the wattage load by the machine when washing. If the running load is greater than the rated load of the machine, then the problem is likely the motor itself or the drum bearings are going bad. If the electrical load is normal, then the breaker in the house electrical panel is either under-rated, or the breaker is defective. If the breaker is a 'ground fault' type, the washer may have current leakage to ground causing the breaker to trip. Another possibility is that there is another outlet that is on the same circuit and the combined load trips the breaker. Shut the breaker off and try any other sockets in the area to see if they went dead too. Hope this helps!

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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It sounds like a blocked or failed drain pump.

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The washer tripped the breaker once and after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

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first does all of the water pump out when wash cycle is done? if not then check your drain lines and see if pump is coming on. if it is not then it wont let the washer spin,

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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
'LE' stands for Lock Error. There is likely to be a problem with either the lid/door solenoid/lock or the 'lid/door closed' sensor requiring a service engineer's attention I suggest. Sorry ;-0(

If this has assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
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