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The red water level light was on even though both tanks were full. The white float behind the filter WAS stuck to the bottom of the tank. I just moved it to its floating position and voila! it is working.
The water sensor is a float in the mister area of the base. The float is off in one corner with a little plastic barrier around it and translucent cap over it. Make sure the float can more freely.
If the float can move up and down but the light stays on, the reed switch (a switch controlled by a magnet built into the float) inside the unit might have been knocked loose, damaged or disconnected. The switch is actually inside the post that the float slides on, but it can only be accessed from the underside - inside the unit.
I had the same problem. Looked up the manual online. Red light indicates water level is low I had just refilled the tank so that was not the problem but manual said to make sure water tank was firmly, securely seated on base. I unplugged the unit, unscrewed the plug on the tank and screwed it back on and then made sure the tank was securely seated on the base, plugged it in and it started working. If the tank is full you may just have to make sure the tank is fitting properly in the base.
It may be clogged with mineral scale. Empty the water that you now have in the tank and refill it with a 50/50 solution of White Vinegar and Bottled Distilled Water. Let it soak for several hours and then turn the unit ON. If it starts working as it should. let it run another 5 minutes, turn it OF and empty the tank. Refill the tank with Bottled Distilled Water and allow it to run at least 45 minutes to flush the system. After that, if you do not detect any vinegar odor, you can continue to use the remaining Distilled water.
If the unit didn't work as it should have after several hours of soaking. Turn the unit OFF and let it soak overnight. If this solved the problem, I would recommend that you continue to use Bottled Distilled Water for normal operation, rather than tap water.
On my water wheel several parameters must be met. 1. Power on, cord plugged in. 2. Water in tank, the float arm needs to move to indicate water present, the red light on the dash indicates no water. 3. Humidity controll set higher than the room atmosphere humidity, clockwise is higher on mine. 4. The fan speed selecter must be on either high or low, the fan won't run unless one position is selected. I hope this helps
I was up all night with this since I just purchased it yesterday and I wanted to be certain that there wasn't some simple alternative to returning the humidifier since the reset light keeps going on immediately after I turn the unit on AND I've already followed all the directions to the T. Believe me - I was ready to return it cause ain't no 38.99 worth me doing all this tinkering and trying to figure out why they couldn't make the unit correctly cause apparently A-LOT of people have this problem. If it wasn't for my three children being so ill including myself getting sicker going out to purchase the humidifier and I was trying to avoid going back out to further compound my illness----I WOULD have just returned it. MAYBE I still will return it. ANYWAY, here's the deal:the water in the tank SHOULD flow into the boiling chamber where of course steam rises from there; however, the WATER VALVE in the CAP to the water tank does not allow any water to flow into the boiling chamber because it is so tight. The reset light goes on as if there was no water in the tank because of course, the heater is on, but no water is getting boiled because the water can't get in. There are a few things you can do. First: the water valve is a little stick and a spring within a piece of rubber that can be slipped out of the cap (this is what I chose to do). Now the water flows easily and even with the unit set to high, there is no problem. It just works. Second: You could remove ONLY the stick and spring from the water valve's rubber piece. This would work if the hole in the rubber piece happens to allow steady water flow (mine wouldn't). Third: you could probably do some cutting til you were satisfied with the results.
My Slant Fin humidifier has a floating, ring-shaped magnetic level that isn't replaceable. You can't even tell it's magnetic until you cut off the piece that prevents the white plastic float from rising past a certain point. It turns out that there is a ring-shaped magnet in the float.
I found that the Refill light would go off when I held a strong magnet near the float device.
So, I have suspended the magnet with string from the top of the humidifier outside the humidifier.
Caution: This fix disables the safety feature inherent in the low level shut off. I wonder why the manufacturer uses material that corrodes?
Eureka! Solved my "left bottle not emptying" problem. The problem was not with the bottle but that the top of unit which houses the on/off switch was not seated properly. It takes only a very slight difference in water level for the float to activate the switch, therefore if the top is raised even 1/4" the unit will shut off before the water level is low enough to allow the left bottle to drain.
In the manual it says that you should clean the heating element. Unplug the machine, lift off the water tank, pull the lever under the tank and lift off the power unit side. If there is too much build up on the element from mineral deposits, the refill light may remain on.
Unfortunately, I have cleaned mine, soaked it in vinegar, made it look nice and new...and it still doesn't work. I am really annoyed as I have not had this humidifier long and have taken really good care of it. I do not want to throw it out. I am going to call customer support and find out if there are any other solutions. (I got a new one for Christmas and do not want to open it until I am sure that it is not fixable!)